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Comp stage 1 cams & GT350 manifold results and comparison to stage 3 cams

Dragster

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Hey everyone! I finally finished up my latest install and had some time to get the car tuned and dynoed. My car is a 2015 GT PP manual, and this build consists of Comp stage 1 cams, a GT350 manifold and throttle body, Roush CAI, full exhaust (Kooks 1 3/4" green catted headers + Borla S-type catback), and supporting mods like OPG, CS, and balancer. Alex from Lund did a remote dyno tune on the car. The local Lund affiliated shop uses a Mustang dyno, so I also got some runs on a Dynojet to make the comparison easier. My previous setup was the same thing, except I had stage 3 cams and the stock throttle body. You can read about those results in that thread here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...old-results-spoiler-alert-its-not-good.92074/

My "baseline" run was at the shop with the Mustang dyno, and the car made 400 hp and 363 ft-lbs. The setup consisted of full exhaust, Roush CAI, and Lund tune. I will upload the files for the dyno graphs because I don't know how to upload a pdf from my computer on the new forum. The car felt good with that setup, but like everyone else, I wanted a little more NA hp and a little more RPM to use for track days. While I love the transmission gearing for the street, having an extra 1,000 rpm at the track would allow me to hold gears longer. I decided to stay NA on this build simply because my last car (an 03 Cobra) was blown and I wanted to do something different.

The stage 1 setup on the Mustang dyno made 414 hp and 313 ft-lbs, but the operator recalibrated the dyno between my stage 3 cam run and the stage 1 cam run, so it's difficult to make any comparisons--which is frustrating. In any event, it's pretty obvious that the car loses quite a bit down low and makes the gains at the top. The Mustang dyno graph ends around 7500, but the power plateaus and continues to nearly 8,000 RPM. In my opinion, the better comparisons are the Dynojet results because this was the same dyno I did my stage 3 Dynojet runs on, and has not be recalibrated in any way since then. There, the car made 436 hp and 365 ft-lbs. Again, the car loses torque down low, but carries the hp for longer in the rev range. Whether or not it's worth it is debatable... I wish I had done a baseline run on a Dynojet so I could see exactly what the changes were on my car. As it is, you can see that for my setup, the stage 1 cams are better than the stage 3 cams. The stage 1 cams lost less down low, and carried basically the same hp for just as long up top.

I was hoping for more peak gains with the cams to offset the loss down low, but it is what it is. The frustrating thing is that the loss in torque down low is significantly greater than the hp gains up top. In the thread with the stage 3 cam results, I have a Dynojet comparison between my car with stage 3 cams and a full bolt on car with the stock manifold and cams, and that car makes about 55 ft-lbs of torque more than my car did at 4,000 RPM (and below, really), while my car makes only 16 more peak hp. The biggest difference, though, was that the stock cams and manifold are done by about 6500 while my car carried the power to 8,000. So hopefully the area under the curve is greater with the cams and manifold. Even with the stage 1 cams, it's probably still down about 30 ft-lbs low in the rev range compared to a FBO Coyote.

My biggest issue right now, though, is with the throttle in the new tune. All of my tunes have been done by Lund, with my stage 3 tune done by Jon Jr., and the new one done by Alex. Below, say 3500 RPM, the car will jump to about 90% load with even the slightest amount of throttle given. So then you have a ton of pedal travel to get the last 10% or so. It's really annoying. It's also frustrating to heel-toe with this setup because you basically have to floor the pedal to get the throttle open enough to blip it. It also means that there's basically no difference in throttle response between the different drive modes. This wasn't the case with the stage 3 tune that Jon Jr. did. I'm hoping Alex can fix this in the tune, but we'll see. It's honestly annoying as hell to drive at this point, and I won't keep it this way if he can't fix it. I did change from the stock throttle body to the GT350 TB when I put in the stage 1 cams, so maybe that has something to do with it. I don't know, but either way, it's annoying and frustrating. After swapping cams twice, I'm just ready for the car to be DONE.

I should've started a GoFundMe to help pay for all of this nonsense... :cwl::crazy: Doing cams sucks because there is so little data out there, so hopefully this can be useful to anyone out there that's thinking of going that route.
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SlaughterOfTheSoul

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You are a saint for posting this! I was hesitant about the stage 3 cams, because no one wanted to post their results and now we can kind of see why. I'll gladly lose 3 whp to keep 20 wtq.
 

Performance nut

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Your baseline is interesting. Attached was my dyno on my 2016 with A6. Kooks 1 7/8 with green cats, Mishimoto CAI, H pipe, Borla Stype exhaust, and no tune (factory Ford tune).
FB_IMG_1534004593352.jpg
 

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The GT350 throttle body is definitely the source of your on/off behavior, especially if your tuner doesn't have it dialed in. It has a very nonlinear airflow to opening angle curve.

Nice to see these results. It makes me think that the VCT calibration also isn't quite dialed in though, with such large losses down low.
 
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Dragster

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You are a saint for posting this! I was hesitant about the stage 3 cams, because no one wanted to post their results and now we can kind of see why. I'll gladly lose 3 whp to keep 20 wtq.
I'm happy to contribute--I just wish it didn't cost me so much time and money! :crackup::headbang:

Your baseline is interesting. Attached was my dyno on my 2016 with A6. Kooks 1 7/8 with green cats, Mishimoto CAI, H pipe, Borla Stype exhaust, and no tune (factory Ford tune).
FB_IMG_1534004593352.jpg
Was that on a Mustang dyno or a Dynojet? I noticed your numbers are STD, and I actually don't know what the correction is on my baseline dyno. The Dynojet numbers are SAE, which was about 10 hp lower than STD correction.

The GT350 throttle body is definitely the source of your on/off behavior, especially if your tuner doesn't have it dialed in. It has a very nonlinear airflow to opening angle curve.

Nice to see these results. It makes me think that the VCT calibration also isn't quite dialed in though, with such large losses down low.
Yeah, I was wondering if that was the case with the throttle body. I sent Alex an email and I'll see what he says. I'm sure he'll bring that up, and if that's the case, I'll swap them out and see if it makes a difference. It's really annoying to drive right now.

I know that the rule of thumb is that cams tend to rob from the bottom to pay at the top, but I really don't know what to make of the tune. Makes me want to learn how to do it myself, just like everything else on this car. If it was a fair trade off--20 lb-ft down low for 20 hp up top, it would make more sense, but that's not the case--at least with this tune on this setup. The Cobra Jet manifold has been shown to make great power with the stage 3 cams, which definitely wasn't the case with the GT350 manifold when I had that combo. I figured the stage 1 would be better, which they were, but I just wish they made a little more power to justify the tradeoff. Perhaps the GT350 manifold is a limiting factor with all of these cams.

It's so hard to find good info on cams and cam tunes because so few people actually do them. Perhaps this is why... I went with Lund because they had done my original tune--which felt strong--and I already had an NGauge. I know they had done some cammed cars before, so I had no reason to doubt they knew what they were doing.
 
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Performance nut

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Was that on a Mustang dyno or a Dynojet? I noticed your numbers are STD, and I actually don't know what the correction is on my baseline dyno. The Dynojet numbers are SAE, which was about 10 hp lower than STD correction.
Mustang. I have always wondered what headers and CAI would do without a tune and what a tune would actually do for you in addition to what you had before the tune. I never got a straight answer from tuners, they always say that headers and CAI are tools in their toolbox. The better the tools, the better the end product.

Green cats allowed me to run factory tune. Comparing your initial to mine, I'm wondering what the tune added.
 

armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT

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Good info man. Sucks that it still loses so much down low. Supposedly the L&M intake cams don't lose any down low and 20 up top.
 

Zinc03svt

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Have Lund reduce the tip in. I personally hate the pedalmax feel in normal driving. Lund probably did that due to the torque loss with stg3 cams.
 
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Dragster

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Good info man. Sucks that it still loses so much down low. Supposedly the L&M intake cams don't lose any down low and 20 up top.
Yeah, I read that about the L&M cams, but I've also heard that people have been disappointed in them. Someone from Lund told me that they aren't getting the results that people had hoped.

Have Lund reduce the tip in. I personally hate the pedalmax feel in normal driving. Lund probably did that due to the torque loss with stg3 cams.
I emailed Alex to let him know about the issue. I have a feeling they'll probably want me to swap to the stock throttle body. The cam in the car now are the stage 1--I didn't have this issue when the stage 3 were in the car, but the car had the stock throttle body then. It was also tuned by Jon Jr. and not Alex.
 

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Sub, great info now you just need to try to Stage 2 so I can make up my mind LOL I'll probably just end up getting them. Glad I didn't buy the stage 3 cams this year if my clutch didn't didn't blow up I would have got cams. now just to decide between stage 1 or stage 2. The only stage 2 I saw was an automatic which was putting down some good numbers though.
 
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Dragster

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Sub, great info now you just need to try to Stage 2 so I can make up my mind LOL I'll probably just end up getting them. Glad I didn't buy the stage 3 cams this year if my clutch didn't didn't blow up I would have got cams. now just to decide between stage 1 or stage 2. The only stage 2 I saw was an automatic which was putting down some good numbers though.
Ha! I actually thought about going with the stage 2 initially, but got some advice to go with the stage 3s instead. I see you have the 18 manifold, and I'd be curious to see how that handles cams versus the GT350. I would assume it would be pretty similar, but you never know. For my application, the power difference between the 3 and 1 was negligible, but the stage 1 cams lost less power down low.
 
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Dragster

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I picked up 4mph while making the car 75lbs heavier with no other changes but the L&M intake cams. I would say they work.
That's awesome! What are your mods--particularly your intake manifold? Any chance you have a dyno graph with the cams? I'm curious to see how the curve looks.
 

Ace21

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Mustang. I have always wondered what headers and CAI would do without a tune and what a tune would actually do for you in addition to what you had before the tune. I never got a straight answer from tuners, they always say that headers and CAI are tools in their toolbox. The better the tools, the better the end product.

Green cats allowed me to run factory tune. Comparing your initial to mine, I'm wondering what the tune added.
The biggest thing with a CAI really is the way it changes airflow reading, and if you do not calibrate for those changes through the LOAD/RPM range then you can actually cause unsafe engine conditions by making the computer think it needs less or more fuel at key times when it doesn't. MAF sensors are great at accurate air flow/volume readings in real time, but they require re-calibration any time you change the intake tract or TB. MAP sensors on the other hand can be used to run a air flow metering strategy known as "Speed Density" which uses a calculation to along with the MAP sensor input to determine the air entering the engine, and it is way better for "RACE" applications as they do not need the constant re-calibration when changing setups.

As for headers, you should be able to run those on almost any modern car, however, you will need spark arrestors for narrow band O2s to keep the trims clean. A tune will only allow you to get the full potential of adding the headers as now the back-pressure differential has changed and your "big air pump", known as an engine, will have the ability to flow more which can allow for more aggressive timing/fuel/VCT strategies.

I emailed Alex to let him know about the issue. I have a feeling they'll probably want me to swap to the stock throttle body. The cam in the car now are the stage 1--I didn't have this issue when the stage 3 were in the car, but the car had the stock throttle body then. It was also tuned by Jon Jr. and not Alex.
I would imagine that Alex will be able to sort this out, but TB changes on top of cam changes can be a rough time consuming challenge when live tuning, let alone doing it when remote tuning via email. Even the most reputable tuners/companies will have issues with certain uncommon setups and it may take a bit longer than other more cookie cutter combo tunes. The biggest help you can be to yourself and your tuner is to make sure that you are in great detail reporting everything that the car is doing including the driving scenario/condition details as well. Remote tuning an uncommon setup was always my least favorite, because you have to take the feedback from the customer and try to translate it to your own, while also removing non-related details to the actual issue, and sometimes not having enough data on top of all of that to actually diagnose the root cause.

The pedal feel is easy to fix and Alex should be able to also keep all your driving mods feeling independent without much issue at all. The modes literally have their own throttle scaling and can be easily tweaked to your liking.

As for your results, I personally think there is still some tweaks left to be had that could help the Hp numbers a bit, but the Tq will not be as easy to gain on the low end. Some VCT adjustment may help pump those Tq numbers up a bit but I am sure that Alex or Lund Jr. would be able to access that better than myself as they have tuned THOUSANDS of these S550s by now.

Good luck and I will be watching to see your, hopefully pleasant, outcome!
 
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The pedal feel is easy to fix and Alex should be able to also keep all your driving mods feeling independent without much issue at all. The modes literally have their own throttle scaling and can be easily tweaked to your liking.

As for your results, I personally think there is still some tweaks left to be had that could help the Hp numbers a bit, but the Tq will not be as easy to gain on the low end. Some VCT adjustment may help pump those Tq numbers up a bit but I am sure that Alex or Lund Jr. would be able to access that better than myself as they have tuned THOUSANDS of these S550s by now.

Good luck and I will be watching to see your, hopefully pleasant, outcome!
Quick update on the car: I've gone back and forth with Alex on the tune a couple times. I switched back to the stock throttle body, and the drivability is definitely better. I never had any surging with the GT350 TB, but the pedal response was really strange. It's much closer to what I remember now. I sent him some logs with the new revision, and he's ready for me to send him a WOT log. Unfortunately it's raining out right now...
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