Comp Cams, who would you trust in USA to do the install?

[WCRookie99]

My guess $4,000-$5,000 for 80hp and 8,000 RPM. Checkout the dyne run @ 1:44 and test drive at 3:36

Sponsored

 

[Headless Horseman]

My guess $4,000-$5,000 for 80hp and 8,000 RPM. Checkout the dyne run @ 1:44 and test drive at 3:36

I think for that cost I'd go with an @ESStuning Supercharger and much more HP

 

[Zelek]

I think for that cost I'd go with an @ESStuning Supercharger and much more HP

Absolutely. You don't need new cams. Tune it to 8k and don't overspin the blower.

 

[Dave2013M3]

I think you guys miss the point...a lot of us want to stay normally aspirated. Great effort...

 

[Atlas1]

My guess $4,000-$5,000 for 80hp and 8,000 RPM. Checkout the dyne run @ 1:44 and test drive at 3:36

Thats a good question. Does steeda install cams? It would have to be someone with a really good reputation, a lot to go wrong!
no denying how good they sound. If I felt comfortable doing the install myself I would do cams in a heartbeat

 

[Zelek]

I think you guys miss the point...a lot of us want to stay normally aspirated. Great effort...

But why? It's been proven time and time again you're wasting money and even doing mild boost is still better $ to performance but hey, it's your money to waste.

 

[WCRookie99]

Yep need to keep it NA, to pass SCCA tech. hahaha

 

[Angrey]

Not sure why so many people fall for this.

It's like telling someone "I stopped drinking soda and lost 100 lbs" while they leave out the fact that they began a rigorous exercise regime and reduced their caloric intake as well.

The cams help, but to what extent? How much would the car have made with the tune and headers and intake? I'm betting 50+ hp of that 80 hp is the other mods they tossed in with the cams. Furthermore, a full and HONEST analysis would need to be done comparing the whole torque and hp curve. Cams that improve the very top (peak) end tend to harm/hurt other areas like midrange and low end. If they rev'd it past OE redline, that has to be taken into account as well (to be truly apples/apples).

$/hp cams are very low on the list. They're one of the absolute last things you'd add if you're squeezing out performance. In fact, if weight savings is just as important as power (which it is), then there are several weight reduction modifications I'd do before cams as well.

If you're staying N/A, then cams are one of the very last things you do (if you're interested in the most impact for $ spent). This has been covered exhaustively in other 5.0 and GT350 threads. The cams that Ford gave are honestly pretty good.

 

[Atlas1]

Not sure why so many people fall for this.

It's like telling someone "I stopped drinking soda and lost 100 lbs" while they leave out the fact that they began a rigorous exercise regime and reduced their caloric intake as well.

The cams help, but to what extent? How much would the car have made with the tune and headers and intake? I'm betting 50+ hp of that 80 hp is the other mods they tossed in with the cams. Furthermore, a full and HONEST analysis would need to be done comparing the whole torque and hp curve. Cams that improve the very top (peak) end tend to harm/hurt other areas like midrange and low end. If they rev'd it past OE redline, that has to be taken into account as well (to be truly apples/apples).

$/hp cams are very low on the list. They're one of the absolute last things you'd add if you're squeezing out performance. In fact, if weight savings is just as important as power (which it is), then there are several weight reduction modifications I'd do before cams as well.

If you're staying N/A, then cams are one of the very last things you do (if you're interested in the most impact for $ spent). This has been covered exhaustively in other 5.0 and GT350 threads. The cams that Ford gave are honestly pretty good.

Not everything has to be done because it’s the best bang for the buck. I’m almost positive I’m going to do headers. Why? Because they are cool and sound good. Would my car perform better if I spent that money on a resonator delete and track lessons? Sure. But sometimes we do things to our cars without ultimate performance in mind

 

[Stage_3]

My guess $4,000-$5,000 for 80hp and 8,000 RPM. Checkout the dyne run @ 1:44 and test drive at 3:36

That's 80HP with the cams ALONG with the long tube headers and cai.
Does have a nice RPM range and revs out nicely. Great for your application.

Sounds pretty killer too.

 

[Angrey]

Not everything has to be done because it’s the best bang for the buck. I’m almost positive I’m going to do headers. Why? Because they are cool and sound good. Would my car perform better if I spent that money on a resonator delete and track lessons? Sure. But sometimes we do things to our cars without ultimate performance in mind

Headers have alternate benefits as you pointed out. They also have more contribution improving with other modifications on the intake side as well.

And everyone is free to modify their car as they choose. And FYI, a resonator delete won't do anything other than modify the sound tone (a true resonator delete and not a full exhaust). Track lessons will help you wring more out of the car but won't help the car.

The point isn't to not do cams, the point is that it's a significant amount of money for not a great deal of juice. That same amount of money spread over other things will have a greater impact on the car.

But again, if it blows your hair back, knock it out.

 

[Atlas1]

Headers have alternate benefits as you pointed out. They also have more contribution improving with other modifications on the intake side as well.

And everyone is free to modify their car as they choose. And FYI, a resonator delete won't do anything other than modify the sound tone (a true resonator delete and not a full exhaust). Track lessons will help you wring more out of the car but won't help the car.

The point isn't to not do cams, the point is that it's a significant amount of money for not a great deal of juice. That same amount of money spread over other things will have a greater impact on the car.

But again, if it blows your hair back, knock it out.

Agree 100%.
but I would love to have headers and a set of cams in my car. I would just go in the garage to cold start it and get high off the fumes and choppy idle

 

[WCRookie99]

Not sure why so many people fall for this.

It's like telling someone "I stopped drinking soda and lost 100 lbs" while they leave out the fact that they began a rigorous exercise regime and reduced their caloric intake as well.

The cams help, but to what extent? How much would the car have made with the tune and headers and intake? I'm betting 50+ hp of that 80 hp is the other mods they tossed in with the cams. Furthermore, a full and HONEST analysis would need to be done comparing the whole torque and hp curve. Cams that improve the very top (peak) end tend to harm/hurt other areas like midrange and low end. If they rev'd it past OE redline, that has to be taken into account as well (to be truly apples/apples).

$/hp cams are very low on the list. They're one of the absolute last things you'd add if you're squeezing out performance. In fact, if weight savings is just as important as power (which it is), then there are several weight reduction modifications I'd do before cams as well.

If you're staying N/A, then cams are one of the very last things you do (if you're interested in the most impact for $ spent). This has been covered exhaustively in other 5.0 and GT350 threads. The cams that Ford gave are honestly pretty good.

Ok, got it. This is where I'm at with my M1HP. (already done)
1. Resonator delete. saves - 9lbs
2. Battery to trunk - puts weight over right rear
3. Lighter wheels (save 50lbs)
4. Front 2-piece Brake rotors saves - 22lbs.
5. Front Bumper bar, cheap saves 10lbs
6. Kooks LTH no cats saves -10 lbs
7. Factory Rear seat delete. - 40 lbs

next: (continue to save weight) considering
a. Lightweight flywheel (relatively cheap and not hard to do.) -10lbs
b. Remove passenger seat, easy -35 lbs
c. Racing Drivers Seat - saves 20 lbs.
d. Replace doors with only skin and install full roll cage, save -75 net lbs.
e. Remove air bags.
f. remove anything I can behind dash.
g. looked at 1-piece drive shaft but rather expensive for -10 lbs.

Now need more power:
i. Tune.
ii. (intake is not bad but possibly inclose it)
iii. Cams????

So, now you know why I asked, "who do you trust to do the install" vs why!!!!

 

[Bybotie]

Ok, got it. This is where I'm at with my M1HP. (already done)
1. Resonator delete. saves - 9lbs
2. Battery to trunk - puts weight over right rear
3. Lighter wheels (save 50lbs)
4. Front 2-piece Brake rotors saves - 22lbs.
5. Front Bumper bar, cheap saves 10lbs
6. Kooks LTH no cats saves -10 lbs
7. Factory Rear seat delete. - 40 lbs

next: (continue to save weight) considering
a. Lightweight flywheel (relatively cheap and not hard to do.) -10lbs
b. Remove passenger seat, easy -35 lbs
c. Racing Drivers Seat - saves 20 lbs.
d. Replace doors with only skin and install full roll cage, save -75 net lbs.
e. Remove air bags.
f. remove anything I can behind dash.
g. looked at 1-piece drive shaft but rather expensive for -10 lbs.

Now need more power:
i. Tune.
ii. (intake is not bad but possibly inclose it)
iii. Cams????

So, now you know why I asked, "who do you trust to do the install" vs why!!!!

Manny and Ozzie at HPP do all my work. They are the best I have worked with.

 

[Stage_3]

Fathouse Fabrications.
See their work on Youtube.

Sponsored