**Coming soon: Nitrous install on my FBO 2019 Bullitt**

[WildHorse]

I think WOT shifts will require the use of a WOT Box WildHorse. I was thinking of purchasing one, but haven’t because I’ve heard that it will eat up cats on the 2 step. If I purchase one, I would want to see the full benefit of it with the 2 step launch and WOT shifts.

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[IrishStallion]

I think WOT shifts will require the use of a WOT Box WildHorse. I was thinking of purchasing one, but haven’t because I’ve heard that it will eat up cats on the 2 step. If I purchase one, I would want to see the full benefit of it with the 2 step launch and WOT shifts.

Talk to Lund directly about it. Part of what makes these a10’s run so good is the wot power/drag shifts. I think on the sauce lowering the rpm shift point to 7000-7200 max (rev limiter 8k) would give you enough wiggle room with nitrous window switch to get it sprayed though shift. There will be some rpm limiters in the tcu code that will have to be sorted out.

My tuner went in and removed “a lot of limiters” in the code past 5th gear on up on mine. Lund will get you taken care of. My car was a base non drag mode car though. Does your’s have drag mode toggles?

 

[NGOT8R]

Talk to Lund directly about it. Part of what makes these a10’s run so good is the wot power/drag shifts. I think on the sauce lowering the rpm shift point to 7000-7200 max (rev limiter 8k) would give you enough wiggle room with nitrous window switch to get it sprayed though shift. There will be some rpm limiters in the tcu code that will have to be sorted out.

My tuner went in and removed “a lot of limiters” in the code past 5th gear on up on mine. Lund will get you taken care of. My car was a base non drag mode car though. Does your’s have drag mode toggles?

My car does have the drag mode toggles with the MT-82 D4 transmission, so the A10 cars will definitely be quicker in the 1/4. I‘m hoping that Lund will be able to work some magic for me with their nitrous tune to make the car as quick and as fast as possible though.

 

[IrishStallion]

My car does have the drag mode toggles with the MT-82 D4 transmission, so the A10 cars will definitely be quicker in the 1/4. I‘m hoping that Lund will be able to work some magic for me with their nitrous tune to make the car as quick and as fast as possible though.

Right on! Grip it and rip it. You made need to look into clutch upgrade at some point. Keep us posted.

 

[NGOT8R]

I started on the install today. It seems as if looking at things and envisioning how I want things to look took up a whole lot of time as usual. I mocked up the solenoids and checked for clearance and discovered a couple of issues with the hard lines being off. This is not a bash on Nitrous Outlet and I will get it sorted out. I’m not sure if I want to stay with the hard lines or have custom braided lines made up. I’ll have to see.

Aside from the above, I tidied up the wiring from the Promax using Tesa Tape and heat shrink and mounted it in the glovebox. I also prepped the fuel rail adapter with a fuel line fitting and fuel pressure sensor and finally, drilled the holes in the trunk/rear deck bracing and installed threaded nut rivets in preparation for mounting the bottle bracket on the mount. Not really much to see, but here are some pics anyway.

 

[IrishStallion]

Looks good! When your finished you can swing over to sw Missouri and install me one. ;).

 

[gadgtfreek]

In Alabama, our response to something like this is "Roll Damn Tide".

 

[NGOT8R]

Looks good! When your finished you can swing over to sw Missouri and install me one. ;).

Thanks, but there is still a whole lot left to do. Let me see how mine turns out first.

I attached the purge solenoid to the nitrous solenoid using the supplied double male 1/8 npt fitting and discovered a clearance issue with the cold air intake elbow hitting the purge solenoid. I actually anticipated things like this surfacing during the install. I’ll just have to adjust and work the problem. Hopefully a double male 90* 1/8 npt fitting will correct this issue. The hard lines are a different story. I’m going to have to contact N/O on that Monday. In the meantime, I’ll see what else I can get done and report back once more progress has been made.

 

[IrishStallion]

Thanks, but there is still a whole lot left to do. Let me see how mine turns out first.

I attached the purge solenoid to the nitrous solenoid using the supplied double male 1/8 npt fitting and discovered a clearance issue with the cold air intake elbow hitting the purge solenoid. I actually anticipated things like this surfacing during the install. I’ll just have to adjust and work the problem. Hopefully a double male 90* 1/8 npt fitting will correct this issue. The hard lines are a different story. I’m going to have to contact N/O on that Monday. In the meantime, I’ll see what else I can get done and report back once more progress has been made.

Yeah, I think I just might skip the plate and hardline options and stick to a universal nozzle kit. You could run it through the sound enhancer tube to intake pipe and keep things hidden as much as possible. But, things not fitting correctly is par for the course on these kind of things. You seem knowledgable and appear to have patience which is a good thing.

 

[NGOT8R]

Yeah, I think I just might skip the plate and hardline options and stick to a universal nozzle kit. You could run it through the sound enhancer tube to intake pipe and keep things hidden as much as possible. But, things not fitting correctly is par for the course on these kind of things. You seem knowledgable and appear to have patience which is a good thing.

Yeah, that’s what I did on my 2013. I used the Nitrous Outlet solenoid to throttle body mounting plate and custom length braided lines from there. The nozzle was mounted on the bottom side of my Airaid CAI tube about 2” back from the mouth of the throttle body.

Yes, patience is definitely needed on this kind of stuff!

 

[NGOT8R]

Made a little more progress today, but it still doesn’t feel like much considering everything that I still have left to do. I’m dreading the wiring because there is just so much of it. Anyways, I figured the best plan for today was to continue mocking things up and test fitting to see how and where I want to orient things.

The device mounted in the suction cup holder on the windshield is the touch screen for the Promax progressive controller which sits in the glovebox. I was trying to think of the best way to run the control cable from the controller to the screen, so that it doesn’t look like an afterthought. The best idea I have for this right now is, to pull the center speaker grill and make a small half-circle notch in the right rear corner which should only expose about 8-10” of the cable. I am willing to consider other options if anyone has ideas on this.

The heated bottle holder and bracket are mounted the way that they will sit. I do still have to figure out where to mount the battery feed for the bottle heater. This is a nice option that I decided on because it will allow for the use of the bottle heater by way of a Milwaukee M18 battery (the kind used in cordless drills), without the need to turn the car on to the accessory mode and risk draining the car’s battery. This way, the bottle can stay heated and the nitrous ready for use at a moments notice.

The switch panel that mounts in the sunglass holder to the left of the steering wheel is very nice! It fits like it was made for this area and will not flop around. I like not having to find a place to drill for multiple switches.

I have a couple more holes to drill in the trunk. One is for a -AN bulkhead fitting which the safety blowdown hose from the bottle will connect to and vent nitrous out of the car if the burst disk ever ruptures. The other hole will be for the nitrous feed line which is a -6AN; therefore, it will run underneath the car along the frame rail and in front of the spare tire well where it will enter into the trunk.

 

[WildHorse]

Looks good. Take ur time, don't rush anything. Make sure the lines are far from excessive heat, tuck in nice as to not catch road debris, don't route along sharpish corners, yada, yada. I'm sure you know all this. Soon you'll be clicking off low 10's.

 

[NGOT8R]

Thanks for the reminders WildHorse. This will be the first time I’ve run a nitrous line outside of a car before. I’ve always ran them on the inside. I may research some battery relocate articles to see if they provide some tips on running and securing cables outsode of the car.

 

[WildHorse]

some tips on running and securing cables outsode of the car.

Just follow the route as close as possible to the factory fuel lines. You can also zip tie braided lines to it as well.

 

[NGOT8R]

I’ve been trying for the last three days to get most of the wiring done, but I keep getting pulled away to do other things. I did manage to build a couple of wiring harnesses for the remote bottle opener and heater relays and I’m currently working on the purge relay harness (which will be mounted to the side of the battery box as seen in the pic. I also made a harness for the nitrous pressure sensor that mounts to the bottle (still have to replicate that harness for the fuel pressure sensor which will attach to the fuel rail adapter). I‘m soldering all wiring to ensure solid connections, so that is taking a little longer to do. I initially secured the Promax controller in the glovebox with 3M double stick tape, but after a day it had come loose, so I drilled four holes and mounted it with black button head screws.

Nitrous Outlet is currently in the process of working through the hard line issue for me. Hopefully I’ll have the new lines in the next few days. Tomorrow I‘ll put the car on jack stands and start taking a look at the routing path for the nitrous feed line and bulkhead fitting for the blowdown hose.

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