cobo10201's "Just a V6" Twin Turbo 2017 3.7L Mustang

[cobo10201]

I use the turbosmart IWG only, no boost controller on my 3.7 ecoboost kit. I use a 7 psi spring, use a mighty vac to set the preload and total boost 10 psi on 93 octane. My wot pulls at full boost is 10 psi throughout the entire powerband to 7k rpms (starting at 2750 rpms). I’ve never got any overboost. I also use a custom F150 3.5 turbo with a 59mm compressor bigger even Bigger then the GT version 54mm and clipped turbine wheel..

Also do this, instead of running your turbosmart iwg line to a manual boost controller, take that line and put it on the compressor housing of each turbo (like my picture). Go for a ride and see if your still get overboost.

When you remove your cats if you still have overboost try having your turbine wheel clipped.

Ahh interesting. So you have a nipple on each turbo that goes directly to the wastegate. I am running off wastegate only right now, but I have it tee off from the driver side turbo with a line to each wsstegate. I feel like I remember seeing your setup before but I am going to try this next weekend.

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[SouthernCyclone]

Ahh interesting. So you have a nipple on each turbo that goes directly to the wastegate. I am running off wastegate only right now, but I have it tee off from the driver side turbo with a line to each wsstegate. I feel like I remember seeing your setup before but I am going to try this next weekend.

Yes I had to drill, tap and install the fitting on each turbo, but this is the best source of line pressure with a internal wastegate, right off the compressor housing.

Also after you get your overboost issue sorted out you will probably want to buy a might vac vacuum/pressure gauge (not just vacuum) to set each individual turbo internal wastegate. Set 3 psi max above your iwg spring rate 3 psi spring set at 6 psi, 7 psi spring set at 10 psi, etc.
This will set the preload and hold the boost rock steady at target pressure.

 

[cobo10201]

Yes I had to drill, tap and install the fitting on each turbo, but this is the best source of line pressure with a internal wastegate, right off the compressor housing.

Also after you get your overboost issue sorted out you will probably want to buy a might vac vacuum/pressure gauge (not just vacuum) to set each individual turbo internal wastegate. Set 3 psi max above your iwg spring rate 3 psi spring set at 6 psi, 7 psi spring set at 10 psi, etc.
This will set the preload and hold the boost rock steady at target pressure.

Thanks! Yep I have a MityVac so I will definitely do that.

 

[cobo10201]

So unfortunately I am failing Texas emissions and can’t get my car registered. Registration deadline is April 14, so I’m a little annoyed. I have three monitors that won’t set: O2, heated O2, and catalyst. At first I was thinking tune, but I called MPT and they told me that per federal law they must be emissions compliant. After some research it looked like it may be a weak battery and my battery is four years old (came with the car) so I replaced my battery. I found articles that said even a normally functioning battery can cause issues with these three monitors specifically if there is any sort of glitch in the electrical. That didn’t solve it so I flashed back to stock and although the car drove horribly the monitors still did not set after multiple drive cycles.

I’m thinking the issue has to be with the sensors themselves right? I wanted to ask here before I went and spent $150 on all new oxygen sensors. Has anybody had any experience or trouble with this?

 

[GeorgeC]

So, details on the twin turbos.

I purchased a kit from Super Six Motorsports that adapts the turbochargers from the 2011-2014 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost trucks to the 3.7L Cyclone V6. It comes with adapter plates for the manifolds, braided lines for oil, and all fittings required to adapt the turbos to the engine. It also includes an extremely detailed parts list and step-by-step instructions for installation. They also provide resources for tuning and where to purchase parts.

My brother and I will be documenting the process on his YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/user/hackmandude12 (not a plug, I swear).

What I have so far:
- Twin-turbo adapter kit
- Silicone coupler and clamps for left charge pipe
- Silicone coupler, clamps, and hose joiner for right charge pipe
- Steel piping, couplers, and clamps to assemble intake piping (from intercooler to intake manifold)
- Clamps for air filter

What I still need to purchase (items listed are specifically mentioned by the Super Six kit):
- Left and right F-150 exhaust manifolds, turbos, flanges, and oil supply/drain assembly. I am going with 2013-14 F-150 turbos. They lack the built in blow-off valve that the 2011-12 turbos have, but are more efficient and typically have less miles on them from a wrecker.
- Left and right F-150 charge pipes
- CX Racing IC-0012 intercooler, dual 2.5" inlets, 3" outlet and various nuts, bolts, and spacers to mount intercooler to bumper
- TurboSmart Race Port universal blow off valve with steel mounting flange
- TurboSmart Boost Tee, manual 8-9 PSI. The kit recommends the boost tee for 93 octane tune, or the TurboSmart eBoost Street for 12-14 PSI with an E85 tune. I am opting for 8-9 PSI with 93 octane for the time because I do still plan to use this as a daily driver.
- x2 K&N RX-4040 conical air filters
- Cold air intake assembly: 6' length, 2" diameter double wall flexible hose and re-purposed exhaust hangers to mount air filters
- DeatschWerks 16U-0065-6 65 lb/hr fuel injectors
- VMP tuning fuel pump booster
- Procharger AIFT11-025 MAP sensor and EC005A-009 MAP sensor mod
- Oil catch can
- 12 ft 7/32" vacuum hose
- 4 ft 9/32" vacuum hose
- 2015 Mustang GT oil cooler (Hayden 459)
- NGK LTR71X-11 spark plugs, gapped to 0.03"
- Various gaskets: 3.7L exhaust manifolds, 3.5L exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, exhaust adapters, oil manifolds

As for a timeline, I recently got a significant pay increase at work so with each paycheck I will be buying more parts. The plan is to have all parts ordered and in my possession by August 1st. We will start the installation early August and plan to be finished by mid August. I have reached out to MPT Performance (recommended by Super Six due to experience tuning twin turbo V6 Mustangs) and given them my timeline so that we can work out a day to tune the car. They are located in Florida and I am in Houston, so we have to set something up remotely.

I am EXTREMELY excited to embark on this project and can't wait to post my experiences here. I hope others are interested and maybe this thread can help people who undertake a project like this in the future. Feel free to ask any questions or give any advice!

I had a 3.7 and wanted to do the exact same build. I got bad news from my doctor and decided to just get a GT with the 10r80 only because I love the sound of the v8. I just spoke to a guy with the 3.7 with an x pipe and a gt exhaust and his car sounded great kind of like some kind of exotic foreign car. Something to consider to make it sound better I didn't know the 3.7 could sound so good. Good luck with your build enjoy your pony and keep us up to date on your build. I've always prerfered the 3.7 to the ecoboost 4 cylinder.

 

[USMCtoARMY]

So unfortunately I am failing Texas emissions and can’t get my car registered. Registration deadline is April 14, so I’m a little annoyed. I have three monitors that won’t set: O2, heated O2, and catalyst. At first I was thinking tune, but I called MPT and they told me that per federal law they must be emissions compliant. After some research it looked like it may be a weak battery and my battery is four years old (came with the car) so I replaced my battery. I found articles that said even a normally functioning battery can cause issues with these three monitors specifically if there is any sort of glitch in the electrical. That didn’t solve it so I flashed back to stock and although the car drove horribly the monitors still did not set after multiple drive cycles.

I’m thinking the issue has to be with the sensors themselves right? I wanted to ask here before I went and spent $150 on all new oxygen sensors. Has anybody had any experience or trouble with this?

Sounds like a sensor issue but why is Texas being so strict? Can't find a shop that would just pass you?

 

[cobo10201]

Sounds like a sensor issue but why is Texas being so strict? Can't find a shop that would just pass you?

I probably could find a shop that will just pass me and at this point I’m pretty sure I’m going to have to. It’s a little annoying because I’ve been to 2 different shops and both failed me.

 

[MagicMike]

Any chance another rodent chewed through a wire harness somewhere? Or chewed on all 3 of those sensors?

 

[cobo10201]

Any chance another rodent chewed through a wire harness somewhere? Or chewed on all 3 of those sensors?

I thought about that but if the wires were actually damaged I think it would throw a code. I talked with MPT again and they think it could be because they had “active learning” turned off for the tuning process. They sent a new tune with active learning on so I flashed it just now and I’ll check the monitors again in a day or two. Fingers crossed.

 

[MagicMike]

I thought about that but if the wires were actually damaged I think it would throw a code. I talked with MPT again and they think it could be because they had “active learning” turned off for the tuning process. They sent a new tune with active learning on so I flashed it just now and I’ll check the monitors again in a day or two. Fingers crossed.

Hope that solves it. Best of luck going forward

 

[cobo10201]

Unfortunately "active learning" didn't solve the issue, but I was able to find a shop that passed me. I guess by the next inspection I'll check the O2 sensor wiring harness and replace the O2 sensors if needed.

The car does run really rich on startup every single time I start the car. It corrects itself after ~15 minutes of driving, though. Maybe there really is something wrong with the O2 sensors. MPT says they don't adjust fuel trim or anything since that's all done by the ECU on the fly, so I guess I have some digging to do.

Little update on the tuning process:

MPT told me that the MAP is only seeing 12 psi max on the data logs, despite me seeing boost spikes as high as 15 on the digital dash during the same pulls. My next step there is to get a physical boost gauge and hook that up so I can start getting some more reliable boost numbers. They also sent me version 5 of the custom tune and asked me to do some 0-60 pulls. They say we are nearing the end of the tuning process!

 

[cobo10201]

Anybody have any idea how to de-pin the front turn signal/parking light harness? My parking light wire snapped at the connector so I need to pull the middle pin out to fix it. I don’t want to break it because I can’t seem to find these harnesses online.

 

[cobo10201]

So a couple things:

I was able to track down the connector for the parking light/turn signal by googling the serial number on the plastic housing. The Ford part number is WPT-1167 for those curious. I got a new one and soldered it up and the parking light works now!

Also, I finally got around to getting some 0-60 data logs for MPT and the car ran great! I didn’t have any issues with over-boosting, acceleration was smooth, no ugly noises, and no issues with temperature. Here are the times:

Run 1 - 6.478 sec
Run 2 - 5.923 sec
Run 3 - 5.818 sec
Run 4 - 5.512 sec
Run 5 - 6.183 sec

Average - 5.983 sec

Now full disclosure, I am nowhere near a professional and I have the cheapest “sport” tires you can buy so there is definitely room for improvement on both of those fronts. Run 1 I was getting a feel for it so that’s why it was the slowest and I had some wheel spin on run 5 causing me to lose time there too. For context though, the fastest 0-60 I ever got pre-turbo was 7.9 sec, so I’m THOROUGHLY happy with the results today. Now just to get some good tires and some practice lol.

I’m still having issues with the emissions monitors not setting and smoking on each startup, so if Mike from MPT doesn’t have any advice on that issue I’m just going to replace the O2 sensors and see if that corrects the problem. If not, I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.

If Mike was right and we are close to completing tuning I’m hoping to take it to a dyno soon too. My brother met a guy that offered some dyno time to us and I’d love to take him up on it.

All-in-all I am very happy today!

 

[cobo10201]

Ugh. Pretty sure one of the turbos is leaking oil. Also pretty sure that's what the smoke has been. Still not sure why it had been stopping after driving for a bit but now its happening randomly throughout drives. I'll just be sitting at a light and all of a sudden there's smoke all around me. I bought a rebuild kit for the turbos. I'm not looking to pay big bucks right now to get them upgraded, but I definitely want them sealed before they grenade.

 

[USMCtoARMY]

Ugh. Pretty sure one of the turbos is leaking oil. Also pretty sure that's what the smoke has been. Still not sure why it had been stopping after driving for a bit but now its happening randomly throughout drives. I'll just be sitting at a light and all of a sudden there's smoke all around me. I bought a rebuild kit for the turbos. I'm not looking to pay big bucks right now to get them upgraded, but I definitely want them sealed before they grenade.

I'll keep going back to the question of CATS and restrictive exhaust. If so, the backpressure is killing those turbos.

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