Clutch Won't Disengage After Install

[only_1]

So, I have a 2016 GT PP car. Clutch was dragging some of the time. I bled it out, and it seemed to be ok for a couple days. Then it would start acting up again. The clutch and throwout are only 6 months old. Less than 5k miles. I pull the transmission, and the throwout bearing makes a weird clicking sound. Send it in and find out it is replaced under warranty. I put the new slave in and put the car back together. Now the clutch won't disengage at all. Not even a little.
I had taken the clutch apart while the trans was out. Nothing was out of the ordinary. Cleaned it up and put it back together. The lightened flywheel, the throwout bearing, the clutch and the stainless line are all from the same company so its not a mismatch of parts.
When assembling the clutch, I used their alignment tool. The transmission slid in without any resistance at all. It was weirdly smooth.
I bled the clutch, using a vac pump and pumping cycling the pedal. Pedal feels normal. Just doesn't seem to do anything. I even jacked the car up on one side to see if that would aid the bleeding process and I don't think it did. During that whole time, the pedal was probably cycled 500 times. Yeah, I kept doing it when the clutch wouldn't disengage. I was hoping that it would start working...
I have the steeda rubber line going from the reservoir, so that isn't a problem.
What should I do now? Do I pull the transmission again?
I am seriously discouraged right now with these parts. Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!

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[WildHorse]

Either the throwout bearing is sticking, or the diaphragm springs are catching . Could also be damaged spline on the clutch.

 

[only_1]

Either the throwout bearing is sticking, or the diaphragm springs are catching . Could also be damaged spline on the clutch.

When I had it apart I put the plates on the input shaft. They moved freely. I did put a little dry graphite lube on the shaft prior to installing the slave.

 

[Astro Performance]

I would check the height of slave sold to you. There was only one design slave used by Ford from 2005-17 Mustang GT. However, a shorter slave was used on the 2010-14 GT-500...and the 2015-Up GT350/350R setups. If clutch is bleed properly, clutch disc fits on input splines nicely, and you already upgraded hydraulic line you should be fine. Now, if it’s a twin disc and the floater plate is warped..it may not be releasing 2nd disc..or disc closest to transmission. I know the last thing you want to do is pull it again..but, I’m thinking you may have to at this point. Oh, if you put the transmission in say 1st gear with car turned off...what happens when you go to start it with clutch pedal on floorboard?

 

[only_1]

I would check the height of slave sold to you. There was only one design slave used by Ford from 2005-17 Mustang GT. However, a shorter slave was used on the 2010-14 GT-500...and the 2015-Up GT350/350R setups. If clutch is bleed properly, clutch disc fits on input splines nicely, and you already upgraded hydraulic line you should be fine. Now, if it’s a twin disc and the floater plate is warped..it may not be releasing 2nd disc..or disc closest to transmission. I know the last thing you want to do is pull it again..but, I’m thinking you may have to at this point. Oh, if you put the transmission in say 1st gear with car turned off...what happens when you go to start it with clutch pedal on floorboard?

I tried starting it. The car launched forward. That company only has one throwout bearing/slave that I am aware of for this application. It is a twin disc clutch. Before taking it apart it would mostly disengage, but was inconsistent. Slave was bad. Now I don't know what to make of it. Going to pull the clutch line first and try bleeding it one more time. I am thinking about shortening the line to prevent it from trapping air.

 

[only_1]

I put a borescope in the vent holes in the transmission and recorded a couple videos of the slave. I am not sure how much travel I am supposed to get from this slave? I know the company said .440 should release the clutch. How wide are the metal bands on the slaves? That is about how much mine moves. Does anyone have a slave on a bench that can measure the width?

 

[sk47]

Hello; I have replaced the master and slave cylinder on a Ford pickup but used stock parts. I made up a DIY way to get the air out. I used one of the pumps you can buy to push gear oil into an outboard motor lower unit. Took a bit of trial and error but did push the fluid up and not down.

The other thing is some of the slave units need to be shimmed. I watched an episode of Powernation TV where they had to do this. They had to measure in a couple of places to get the number of shims.

 

[CorvZ061]

you didn't install the disc flipped around did you? they usually have a trans side and a engine side. if you get it backwards this is what you get usually.

 

[only_1]

you didn't install the disc flipped around did you? they usually have a trans side and a engine side. if you get it backwards this is what you get usually.

I don't see how I could have. The discs are marked with FW side on them. Then on the other side one said Top and the other said bottom. I used those to align them.

 

[CorvZ061]

I don't see how I could have. The discs are marked with FW side on them. Then on the other side one said Top and the other said bottom. I used those to align them.

it happens man. on a multi disc it's really easy to do. but at this point it sounds like the trans is coming out again, because if that's not it then the slave isn't doing it's thing.

 

[only_1]

it happens man. on a multi disc it's really easy to do. but at this point it sounds like the trans is coming out again, because if that's not it then the slave isn't doing it's thing.

Yeah I am thinking the same. I was hoping that the slave is supposed to have more stroke, and that I had air in the line or something. Probably time to start disassembling. Thanks for your input!

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