PCho222
Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi guys, just posting this to document an issue I had with my clutch and what the fix ended up being since I haven't seen definitive threads/answers about my exact problem. Hopefully this can help somebody else someday.
Problem: Car was fine until one day I went to start it in the morning and the clutch pedal was hovering a few inches off the floor. I'd previously removed the pedal assist spring and so I could pull the pedal up with my foot and it would stay at the top, but have barely any resistance and stay if I pushed it back down. The first ~3/4 of pedal travel felt like air and pumping the pedal did nothing. The last 1/4 of travel had clutch pressure and I could get in/out of gear so I drove it. Five minutes down the road as the car warmed up, the pedal slowly started rising. A few more minutes later, the clutch felt normal again. The problem wouldn't repeat itself unless I let it sit overnight. This went on for a few weeks before I ended up fixing it.
Diagnosis: I never saw any drops of fluid under the car and nothing was wet underneath suggesting a leak. The brake fluid reservoir was filled to the max line and never fluctuated. My aftermarket clutch line was still tightly secured. I had no reason to believe air was in the line as it'd driven fine for a year until now. Most threads I read on M6G had physical leaks from either the clutch master or slave cylinder, thus identifying the culprit. In my case, I suspected there was an internal leak in the slave or master cylinder where the fluid was able to slowly leak behind the piston overnight until the fluid/cylinder warmed up enough to seal itself again.
Solution: I replaced the master cylinder (actually the whole pedal assembly since nobody stocked the cylinder at the time), pumped it a hundred times to bleed it, and it fixed it. Car's been driving fine for months ever since then. In my mind, it was a 50/50 shot between the master and slave cylinder being the cause. I chose the master cylinder off of a hunch. With the issues I've experienced over bad slave cylinders in cars and motorcycles, the problem's usually much less consistent, the clutch will feel all over the place, and the vehicle often tends to be undriveable. Also, there was no way in hell I wanted to get under the car and tear into the trans again, so there's that
Problem: Car was fine until one day I went to start it in the morning and the clutch pedal was hovering a few inches off the floor. I'd previously removed the pedal assist spring and so I could pull the pedal up with my foot and it would stay at the top, but have barely any resistance and stay if I pushed it back down. The first ~3/4 of pedal travel felt like air and pumping the pedal did nothing. The last 1/4 of travel had clutch pressure and I could get in/out of gear so I drove it. Five minutes down the road as the car warmed up, the pedal slowly started rising. A few more minutes later, the clutch felt normal again. The problem wouldn't repeat itself unless I let it sit overnight. This went on for a few weeks before I ended up fixing it.
Diagnosis: I never saw any drops of fluid under the car and nothing was wet underneath suggesting a leak. The brake fluid reservoir was filled to the max line and never fluctuated. My aftermarket clutch line was still tightly secured. I had no reason to believe air was in the line as it'd driven fine for a year until now. Most threads I read on M6G had physical leaks from either the clutch master or slave cylinder, thus identifying the culprit. In my case, I suspected there was an internal leak in the slave or master cylinder where the fluid was able to slowly leak behind the piston overnight until the fluid/cylinder warmed up enough to seal itself again.
Solution: I replaced the master cylinder (actually the whole pedal assembly since nobody stocked the cylinder at the time), pumped it a hundred times to bleed it, and it fixed it. Car's been driving fine for months ever since then. In my mind, it was a 50/50 shot between the master and slave cylinder being the cause. I chose the master cylinder off of a hunch. With the issues I've experienced over bad slave cylinders in cars and motorcycles, the problem's usually much less consistent, the clutch will feel all over the place, and the vehicle often tends to be undriveable. Also, there was no way in hell I wanted to get under the car and tear into the trans again, so there's that
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