Clutch master cylinder DIY and other parts needed?

Heggs550

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My clutch MC has been leaking fluid inside the cabin for a while now and I'm stuck footing a $700 dealer bill or just replacing it myself since a master cylinder isn't considered "powertrain" apparently :/ This is on an Ecoboost, but I doubt the process is any different for a GT. Anybody have a DIY writeup? I found a series of videos on Youtube, but it wasn't quite as helpful as I hoped.

Main question is besides a new clutch MC, are there any other parts needed for the swap? Fitting(s) should just transfer over without need for any new o-rings, replacement clips, etc, right?
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cop on my back

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I did a You Tube video on this (5 parts) and in it I specified a little blue plastic retaining clip that will likely break when removing and will need to replace. It is like $2. The video is not great, I am no editing guy, thus 5 videos. Can't remember which one shows it, I think #3. Just search 2015 Mustang clutch master cylinder.
 
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Heggs550

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No offense intended, but I'm pretty sure that's the series of videos I'm talking about haha. To be fair, I kind of scanned through them a little looking for key points and whatnot. I'll have to actually sit down and fully watch them. Thanks for doing that!

Hopefully that clip is the retaining clip at the rod/pedal? I just ordered it from the local dealer yesterday and did order the only other part it showed in their exploded diagram, which was a $3 retaining clip at the end of the rod.

I'll try to be careful with clips and such, I was mainly hoping there weren't any hydraulic fittings that need to be replaced. The last thing I need when I'm replacing this due to a leak...is to create another leak...LOL
 
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Heggs550

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For anyone looking for info later, the clutch master cylinder can be replaced without removing the entire pedal assembly. I was going to go ahead and take the whole thing out, but realized the blue plastic pin at the brake booster/pedal is a one-time use part the day I was going to do the job and I really just wanted to get it done vs having to wait for another part to come in, so I went for it.

All that's needed is a new master cylinder and depending on what type of retaining clip you have on the pedal rod, a retaining clip. A new clip is about $2-3, so worth picking up a new one just in case.

Not a bad job at all, took less than 3 hours and I wasn't racing. Definitely do yourself a favor and remove the driver seat. Four T50 bolts and an electrical connector. Gives you plenty of room to lay down, just be careful not to break the seat wiring harness connector while you're on it.

Once you remove the clutch switch, pedal rod retaining clip, two 5mm allen bolts, reservoir fluid line, and fitting below the reservoir line (be careful, you're going to be dripping quite a bit of brake fluid. Steer very clear of your paint and wash it down asap if you do get on the paint), the cylinder will be loose to pull out from under the dash. Might take some wiggling and twisting to get out, but the new one should drop in fairly easily.

The clutch is self bleeding, but you can also use a vacuum pump on the reservoir to help speed up the process. You'll need to hand pump a lot to get fluid/pressure built up, then you can pull vacuum at the reservoir (15-20 inHg for about a minute at a time).
 
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Heggs550

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Lastly, be careful/mindful of both switches on the clutch pedal. I didn't realize there was also a switch at the top of the pedal and when the pedal swung upwards upon removal of the master cylinder rod end, it popped apart that switch. Luckily, both of these switches function the same way and are simple units. Put it back together, made sure both switches were good and plugged in, and it STILL didn't work. After sitting overnight with everything back in it's place, the car has started just fine a couple times today. Problem solved.
 
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