Clutch/brake pedal assembly removal

[greenelectric@gmail]

Did you replace those retainers or reuse them? I tried to get replacements from Ford they said they don't sell them separately

I couldn't get it either so I drilled it put a washer and cotter pin in it.

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[Tarik76]

I couldn't get it either so I drilled it put a washer and cotter pin in it.

I just reused them. Put a lil silicone lube in the shaft as well clutch pedal nice and smooth now

 

[greenelectric@gmail]

I just reused them. Put a lil silicone lube in the shaft as well clutch pedal nice and smooth now

Yeah but I destroyed the clip.

 

[Heggs550]

It's just a generic star lock washer...nothing Ford specific. Try your local hardware store.

 

[Dailyfuzzy]

Does anyone have instructions to take off the pedal assembly? I have to replace the clutch because it broke the weld as well

 

[RRkurama]

You do not need to drain it. If you have any other questions let me know, I’ll keep an eye on the thread. Good luck!

What should i avoid disconnecting so i don’t get brake fluid every where?

 

[jaked10702]

Hi guys,

So yesterday my clutch pedal broke. The weld that holds the bar linkage of the pedal to the pivot tube up top broke so my clutch pedal is very wobbly and I have issues starting the car now because the neutral switch is not being engaged properly.

If anyone that has a service manual could provide me with the excerpt to remove the assembly I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you!

this exact thing just happened to me. broke in the same place and came here for help. do you have to do anything with the hydronic lines running out the back of the clutch pedal assembly. like bleed then or anything.

 

[wckoxford wht]

Just had my pedal welded and one of the bushings was worn and I can not find them anywhere does anyone know where they can be found

 

[Kcjefff]

Ok guys. I know this is an old post but I’m stuck. Btw, my pedal cracked with the OEM spring. No steeda, no removal.
Anyway. I’ve got everything unhooked. CMC, all 8 nuts/bolts, brake booster rod, etc. For the life of me, I can’t seem to move the booster far enough to the front of the car to clear the firewall what am I doing wrong? The booster hits all the hoses right in front of it and I have no more clearance. Doing this with the help of my son. Does the pedal come straight down, do you twist it at all? Do you pull up on the booster? Any help is appreciated.

 

[GT Pony]

Ok guys. I know this is an old post but I’m stuck. Btw, my pedal cracked with the OEM spring. No steeda, no removal.
Anyway. I’ve got everything unhooked. CMC, all 8 nuts/bolts, brake booster rod, etc. For the life of me, I can’t seem to move the booster far enough to the front of the car to clear the firewall what am I doing wrong? The booster hits all the hoses right in front of it and I have no more clearance. Doing this with the help of my son. Does the pedal come straight down, do you twist it at all? Do you pull up on the booster? Any help is appreciated.

If everything is unhooked as outlined in this thread, sounds like you need to get the booster to move a bit more forward. maybe see if some of the lines it's hitting can be moved a bit somehow - ?.

 

[Kcjefff]

For anyone else who stumbled across this, I did have to unhook the engine sound tube, then I used a pry bar between the brake booster and firewall VERY CAREFULLY to avoid damage to either. I was able to get it out. Now to just figure out the throttle position and steering wheel position error codes…

 

[NGOT8R]

For anyone else who stumbled across this, I did have to unhook the engine sound tube, then I used a pry bar between the brake booster and firewall VERY CAREFULLY to avoid damage to either. I was able to get it out. Now to just figure out the throttle position and steering wheel position error codes…

Did you take any pics that you can share with us? It seems as if eventually, all manual tranny cars may all have to deal with this issue and some good documentation would be very helpful.

My car is a 2019, but after hearing about this issue, I don’t have full confidence that the weld will hold forever.

I see you live in KC. I lived there my whole life until 2021 and decided to escape the cold and moved to Florida.

 

[Kcjefff]

Part of the challenge is the right space doesn’t allow for pics. I pulled the driver seat before starting. I wouldn’t even think about this job without that. It takes 5 minutes. LED worklight is another must to avoid burns and still have enough light. I also removed the dash up to the sunglasses drawer. It’s two pieces and two screws. Made access so much easier. Impact driver and lots of extensions are helpful. You also need a deep 13mm or 1/2” socket.

That Is basically a brain dump. It’s pretty obvious what needs to be done. Just hard to execute.

Oh one other trick: the brake booster blue plastic retainer is easily removed by pressing the pins with a wrench of the right size. Though I can’t remember which size. 10mm maybe?

 

[BluePonyGT]

I seem to have the same problem now. Started with a creaking noise when I brought the clutch up, now it's hitting resistance on the way down unless I push it in at an angle from left to right. If I don't do this the resistance half-way down, then the SNAP when it completes its travel is sickening to hear.

By the way the part number listed earlier for the brake assembly has been revised:

JR3Z-2455-B

It's about $400 (at least from my local dealer). Possibly cheaper other places BUT that really isn't the point. the pedal(s) have to be reinforced with a better weld no matter what to fix this right. I'll have to set aside some time to get it out of the car (per instructions earlier in this thread), get it to a weld shop, repair it, paint it, then get it back in the car.

I'm absolutely stunned that this hasn't been a recall. Anything pedal related is going to be a safety hazard IMO. Doesn't change the fact that my car is out of warrantee w/ 70k miles and I need to be able to DRIVE it.

 

[Cobra Jet]

I seem to have the same problem now. Started with a creaking noise when I brought the clutch up, now it's hitting resistance on the way down unless I push it in at an angle from left to right. If I don't do this the resistance half-way down, then the SNAP when it completes its travel is sickening to hear.

By the way the part number listed earlier for the brake assembly has been revised:

JR3Z-2455-B

It's about $400 (at least from my local dealer). Possibly cheaper other places BUT that really isn't the point. the pedal(s) have to be reinforced with a better weld no matter what to fix this right. I'll have to set aside some time to get it out of the car (per instructions earlier in this thread), get it to a weld shop, repair it, paint it, then get it back in the car.

I'm absolutely stunned that this hasn't been a recall. Anything pedal related is going to be a safety hazard IMO. Doesn't change the fact that my car is out of warrantee w/ 70k miles and I need to be able to DRIVE it.

The ONLY way it would be a recall is if S550 owners would just go to the NHTSA website and start filing complaints about XYZ safety concerns. Once the NHTSA gets enough complaints, they have to notify the Manufacturer and request a formal investigation. If it is deemed this is a safety hazard that can harm driver/passenger/or the public, then it goes to formal request of Recall.

Until then, it's just a bunch of folks on a message board complaining....

For those with this issue, hit up NHTSA, put in formal complaint and be specific as well as voicing the concern about safety.

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