Clutch/brake pedal assembly removal

OrangeCrush5.0

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Regardless if they crack through the weld and/or metal at the pivot (it happens in both places), the fact is there is too much stress on that area of the pedal for the design and/or manufacturing technique - there isn't enough weld (it's not all the way around the pivot tube). The stress goes through the weld and the immediate area around the weld. Sure the metal is probably crap too which doesn't help with a small weld area, and welding it may make it even worse and more prone to failure depending on the type of steel.

What's the root cause that's putting too much stress in that area? I'm sure not everyone is slamming their brakes on constantly and locking up the brakes, and not everyone has an aftermarket clutch that takes 3x the clutch pedal effort to operate. I'm betting the super stiff OEM clutch spring doesn't help this situation. Has anyone who took out the OEM clutch pedal spring with super low miles have a failure? - I see OrangeCrush5.0 mentioned in post #73 that he took his out when new, but took 45K for his to fail, and just how crappy were the welds on his pedals compared to others?

And I'm betting some pedals are welded better than others knowing Ford's "QA consistency".

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/clutch-brake-pedal-assembly-removal.104338/#post-2262113
The welds on my pedal were undercut, it appears to be what caused the crack in my pedal. I wish I would have taken pictures.
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Porsche_Manny

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I have a 2017 GT Performance Pack that I purchased used from my job; it had 11,500 miles. Previous owner had installed the Steeda Clutch Spring.

At about 45,000, pedal started creaking when actuating Clutch.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ifarbwhy5i4px7y/VID_93250801_025325_045.mp4?dl=0

After lubrication fixed nothing, I found out about the pedal issue. After living with it for a.couple of months — I had the pedals replaced because I didn't want clutch pedal failure on my 2 hr commute.

The -new- pedal has the OEM spring, and is much softer than with the Steeda. I prefer the stiffer pedal the Steeda gives — but I don't want this to happen all over again (if it's preventable).
 

Heggs550

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Hi, I honestly could not get the pedal assembly out of my 550. I don't know how these guys are doing it. Between the brake booster studs, and the upper portion of the assembly being to large . . . it was not coming out unless I broke something. If you are removing your clutch master cylinder, you do not have to remove the pedal assembly to do so. The CMC is only two allen head bolts... and is actually easy to remove.
Can anyone confirm this please? I'm dealing with a clutch MC that leaks at the plunger inside the cabin and need to replace the MC. The dealer, and everyone else I've seen here, says the whole pedal assembly has to come out. I'm going to do the job either way because the dealer wants $700 and neither powertrain warranty I have will cover it, just would cut a lot of time and trouble if it were this easy. If it really requires pedal assembly removal, I'm more inclined to procrastinate the job and just keep wiping my shoe off before I go in the house lol
 

cop on my back

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Yes you have to remove the entire pedal assembly. Then remove and replace the clutch MC from the assembly then replace the pedal assembly back into the car.
If you remove the seat it will be WAY easier.
 

Heggs550

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Yes you have to remove the entire pedal assembly. Then remove and replace the clutch MC from the assembly then replace the pedal assembly back into the car.
If you remove the seat it will be WAY easier.
I'm 100% removing the seat for that job lol. I've spent too much time on the floorboard of this car to want to do this job with the seat in place. I'm way too old for that now, I'll end up paying that $700 in medical bills after LOL
 

OrangeCrush5.0

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I'm 100% removing the seat for that job lol. I've spent too much time on the floorboard of this car to want to do this job with the seat in place. I'm way too old for that now, I'll end up paying that $700 in medical bills after LOL
I made a platform next to the car that was even with the door. I then added all of my old microfiber towels and an old sleeping bag on top. I could have slept there lol.
 

Tarik76

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Hey guys. What's the recommended procedure for getting this retainer off? flat-head screwdriver?

IMG_5153.jpg
Did you replace those retainers or reuse them? I tried to get replacements from Ford they said they don't sell them separately
 

tevaburns

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I reused mine and they have been perfectly fine.
 

Heggs550

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Just don't mutilate it too bad getting it off and you can reuse it. Worst case scenario, pretty sure you can pick one up at a hardware store.
 

celica0774

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Did Ford revise this part to address this issue? Should have a new part number or revision.
Is this part steel? Need to know if I can weld it with my steel setup.
 

Heggs550

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Just a heads up to anyone who only needs to replace their master cylinder, you can definitely do it without removing the entire pedal assembly. Just did mine in less than 3 hrs including r/r of the driver seat and I'm not the fastest worker.

Two 5mm Allen bolts, whatever retaining clip you have on the end of the pushrod, the fitting under the reservoir line, the reservoir line, and some twisting and turning and it was out. New one dropped in even easier.

Hydraulics are functioning perfectly, but I seem to have a newfound issue with the clutch position sensor/switch. Car wants me to push in the clutch AND brake and hold the start button through the entire crank. Used to be able to get in, press the clutch, and tap the start button. Very odd, the fuel pump primes when I press the clutch in, so I know the switch works, but it won't let me start without the brake also pushed and is throwing a wrench light. Already took apart the switch and looks like everything is fine. I'll try digging in with FORScan to look for codes, but anyone have any ideas?
 

Izhuk

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Hey Guys,

Might be a bit late to this thread, but would it be possible to send over the manual again for the removal process of this assembly.

My pedal assembly has had the same issue, where I need to press the clutch in from left to right in order for it to engage, my pedal is also very far from the brake pedal, and I cannot find a reputable shop by me that will be able to replace it within my work schedule.

I have a new assembly, the spot welds are pretty terrible so if anyone has any welders they can recommend around the Jersey City area, that would also be greatly appreciated.
 

Heggs550

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Hey Guys,

Might be a bit late to this thread, but would it be possible to send over the manual again for the removal process of this assembly.

My pedal assembly has had the same issue, where I need to press the clutch in from left to right in order for it to engage, my pedal is also very far from the brake pedal, and I cannot find a reputable shop by me that will be able to replace it within my work schedule.

I have a new assembly, the spot welds are pretty terrible so if anyone has any welders they can recommend around the Jersey City area, that would also be greatly appreciated.
Check out post #53. I was still able to download it the other day 👍
 

Heggs550

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Just a heads up to anyone who only needs to replace their master cylinder, you can definitely do it without removing the entire pedal assembly. Just did mine in less than 3 hrs including r/r of the driver seat and I'm not the fastest worker.

Two 5mm Allen bolts, whatever retaining clip you have on the end of the pushrod, the fitting under the reservoir line, the reservoir line, and some twisting and turning and it was out. New one dropped in even easier.

Hydraulics are functioning perfectly, but I seem to have a newfound issue with the clutch position sensor/switch. Car wants me to push in the clutch AND brake and hold the start button through the entire crank. Used to be able to get in, press the clutch, and tap the start button. Very odd, the fuel pump primes when I press the clutch in, so I know the switch works, but it won't let me start without the brake also pushed and is throwing a wrench light. Already took apart the switch and looks like everything is fine. I'll try digging in with FORScan to look for codes, but anyone have any ideas?
Just an update for the archives: found the 2nd switch at the top of the clutch pedal. Was popped apart since I let the clutch pedal extend to both extremes on the clutch spring without the master cylinder rod attached. Put the switch back together, confirmed both switches should have been functioning as designed, and it STILL wasn't starting correctly. Messed around with it for another 30 minutes, then decided to call it quits for the night. Came out today and it's started up just fine twice now. Looks like the car just needed some sleep too 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

emix

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Just had this happen to me as well. I noticed today the clutch pedal will move from side to side about 3-4 cm (1-2 inches). My car is on 92k km (60k mls). It's been creaking for a good while now, and I was just thinking some spray on the components will fix the creak, next time I go for an oil change. I'm scared to even drive the car to the dealer....
 
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