Carbon Fiber Front Bumper

[REVolutionist]

So to provide an update on the speedkore parts I thinks it’s worth everyone understanding this.

the bonus with getting the Speedkore carbon fiber front bumper is that it’s already premolded with the turn signal bezels, the front bumper grille inserts, and the bumper inserts.

total cost for these parts is broken down below. For $1600 total, assume Max 20% discount, that makes these $1280 plus shipping. Figure $100 bucks to ship, so $1380 total.

There is a savings here if you look at it a certain way. Considering complete carbon front bumper


2015 - 2020 MUSTANG SHELBY GT350 CARBON FIBER TURN SIGNAL BEZELS
Call for stock status - $ 399.00

2015-2020 MUSTANG SHELBY GT350 CARBON FIBER FRONT UPPER GRILLE INSERTS. $ 399.00


2015 - 2020 MUSTANG SHELBY GT350 BUMPER INSERTS. $ 799.00

I look forward to seeing the finished project. This may end up being the route I go as opposed to all of those unpainted pieces being purchased with CF replacements.

Hopefully you can take some nice close up detailed pictures pre painting and post painting.

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[Hangman77]

I look forward to seeing the finished project. This may end up being the route I go as opposed to all of those unpainted pieces being purchased with CF replacements.

Hopefully you can take some nice close up detailed pictures pre painting and post painting.

im excited about it. I will be 100% taking photos and documenting everything.

you gotta figure if I just get rear fenders, roof and doors. That’s the whole car in carbon.

based off of what I’m spending you can pretty much do the entire car in carbon fiber for $20000 of course depends if you pay a shop to do everything. My dad and I are doing all the work ourselves.

 

[Hangman77]

Thanks Josh @Meraki Autoworks for getting my Anderson hood ordered.

I now have all the carbon parts I want ordered.

this will take some months everyone to get the parts in.

hopefully the speedkore stuff come in 30ish days like they said.

Stay tuned

 

[Meraki Autoworks]

Thanks Josh @Meraki Autoworks for getting my Anderson hood ordered.

I now have all the carbon parts I want ordered.

this will take some months everyone to get the parts in.

hopefully the speedkore stuff come in 30ish days like they said.

Stay tuned

Dang I didn't know you were turning your whole shell into carbon fiber! This is going to be one insane build.. Let me know if you need to finish off your carbon addiction with more Anderson components!

-Josh

 

[Hangman77]

Dang I didn't know you were turning your whole shell into carbon fiber! This is going to be one insane build.. Let me know if you need to finish off your carbon addiction with more Anderson components!

-Josh

I have the whole list I want done now.

the only thing I’m missing is the doors, roof and rear fenders.

I’ll add those later on down the road.

im pretty stoked about this build, I usually go crazy on all my cars. I kinda have a personal goal of 3500lbs with fuel. Not including me. That’s pretty much what the fp350s race car weighs curb weight, and it’s gutted with a cage. I’d like to have the creature comforts of street car and have the weight of a race car.

we’re also adding a full race engine and lots of other goodies.

 

[Bulldogs22]

I have the whole list I want done now.

the only thing I’m missing is the doors, roof and rear fenders.

I’ll add those later on down the road.

im pretty stoked about this build, I usually go crazy on all my cars. I kinda have a personal goal of 3500lbs with fuel. Not including me. That’s pretty much what the fp350s race car weighs curb weight, and it’s gutted with a cage. I’d like to have the creature comforts of street car and have the weight of a race car.

we’re also adding a full race engine and lots of other goodies.

Full race engine as in fully built 5.2 or dropping in another engine entirely?

 

[Hangman77]

Full race engine as in fully built 5.2 or dropping in another engine entirely?

Complete new engine. Fully built

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2020-gt350r-heritage-build-thread-twin-turbo.152939/

 

[Bulldogs22]

Complete new engine. Fully built

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2020-gt350r-heritage-build-thread-twin-turbo.152939/

That engine component list is a wet dream.

 

[Angrey]

I purchased several Speedkore components from a gentleman recently and here are my thoughts.

You should really do a value analysis and base it on $/lb saved. I think most people would be surprised at how little weight savings there are on certain components. Take the hood for example. I have a dry, prepreg CF hood that has the trackspec vents inserted, but when you add back the hood latches (which are almost required with CF hoods), even with the removed center section, it's not really drastic the amount of weight you save vs the OEM hood. The OEM aluminum hood is actually already pretty light.

Same with the rear trunk deck and splitter. Now, it's a bit apples/oranges because my new splitter is a MUCH better improvement to the track pack splitter (in every aspect) but the weight difference between the two assemblies isn't earth shattering.

If it were me and I was truly trying to maximize $/spent for impact, I'd create a chart and outline which parts were gonna save me the most weight for $ spent. I think the doors and fenders are higher on the list.

Obviously there's an aesthetic aspect, but if you're painting them anyway and only desiring weight savings, I think you'll find some components VERY expensive in terms of how much weight you actually save.

I also think a $/lb chart flushes out some things that might otherwise be hidden. Titanium lugs for example...they seem expensive, but when you compare how much weight you're saving vs price you start to say, well, every bit helps and it's moving the needle more than other pieces.

My Steeda road race K member for example, seems pretty spendy, but in terms of actual weight it's up near the top.

I'm thinking Carbon Ceramic brake swap (assuming equal or improved performance) might be even higher (even though $8-$10k is a real kick in the nuts). Then if you combine it with 18" wheels (again, incremental weight savings for the wheel AND the tire), all the sudden it works out to more weight/$ than other things.

 

[Hangman77]

I purchased several Speedkore components from a gentleman recently and here are my thoughts.

You should really do a value analysis and base it on $/lb saved. I think most people would be surprised at how little weight savings there are on certain components. Take the hood for example. I have a dry, prepreg CF hood that has the trackspec vents inserted, but when you add back the hood latches (which are almost required with CF hoods), even with the removed center section, it's not really drastic the amount of weight you save vs the OEM hood. The OEM aluminum hood is actually already pretty light.

Same with the rear trunk deck and splitter. Now, it's a bit apples/oranges because my new splitter is a MUCH better improvement to the track pack splitter (in every aspect) but the weight difference between the two assemblies isn't earth shattering.

If it were me and I was truly trying to maximize $/spent for impact, I'd create a chart and outline which parts were gonna save me the most weight for $ spent. I think the doors and fenders are higher on the list.

Obviously there's an aesthetic aspect, but if you're painting them anyway and only desiring weight savings, I think you'll find some components VERY expensive in terms of how much weight you actually save.

I also think a $/lb chart flushes out some things that might otherwise be hidden. Titanium lugs for example...they seem expensive, but when you compare how much weight you're saving vs price you start to say, well, every bit helps and it's moving the needle more than other pieces.

My Steeda road race K member for example, seems pretty spendy, but in terms of actual weight it's up near the top.

I'm thinking Carbon Ceramic brake swap (assuming equal or improved performance) might be even higher (even though $8-$10k is a real kick in the nuts). Then if you combine it with 18" wheels (again, incremental weight savings for the wheel AND the tire), all the sudden it works out to more weight/$ than other things.

very good information. And I agree with allot of your points. The carbon has the highest cost per lb than pretty much every mod. This is definitely the last place to go when questing for lowest weight. I wanted to go the carbon vented hood, and since I was going to paint match it, I figured I would get the deck lid, and then another part and another part lol. Then all started rolling.

I have the steeda I member also, haven’t installed it. What was the weight on the stock I member and then the steeda? Did you measure?

I also ordered the optic armor front and rear windshield, and for $1200 to knock off 28lbs that’s a bargain.

also my antigravity battery. $400 for allot of weight savings.

have also debated the carbon ceramic brakes. I road race every weekend, so I’m beating on my car. I am still learning allot about advanced driving, so I want to build my skill up on the OEM rotors for the rest of this year before I go the carbon cermamic route. But that’s like 40ish lb weight savings.

Also race seats. Stock seats weigh 93lbs combined. Good carbon fiber race seats weigh 13-15lbs minus brackets each. There’s a solid 50lbs there also.

All this stuff is coming. The carbon came a little early in the project, but it happens lol.

 

[Kobi Addiction]

Ford OEM K-member weighs 60lbs.
Steeda Road Race K-member is 47.5 lbs.
w/o the 2-point G-trac brace 41.5 lbs.

Lightweight CF Seats will save you quite a bit of weight and are a solid bang for the buck. They are very high on my list of upcoming parts.

Lithium batteries will shed you lots of weight up front. I ran a AntiGravity Battery for about a week, and it didn’t end up well for me. The car started glitching and overcharging causing the car to turn off and popped fuses. AG couldn’t figure it out and I just had to return for a refund, but I may try one more time here soon. Not ready to give up just yet! Other Shelby owners run lithium without issues...

 

[Angrey]

Ford OEM K-member weighs 60lbs.
Steeda Road Race K-member is 47.5 lbs.
w/o the 2-point G-trac brace 41.5 lbs.

Lightweight CF Seats will save you quite a bit of weight and are a solid bang for the buck. They are very high on my list of upcoming parts.

Lithium batteries will shed you lots of weight up front. I ran a AntiGravity Battery for about a week, and it didn’t end up well for me. The car started glitching and overcharging causing the car to turn off and popped fuses. AG couldn’t figure it out and I just had to return for a refund, but I may try one more time here soon. Not ready to give up just yet! Other Shelby owners run lithium without issues...

I was going to say, my K member (the actual one in my car) is the one steeda featured in their marketing video (my K member is famous and they claimed about 19 lbs savings. I was already running their cross brace so I'd have to see apples to apples what it saved, but assume the cross bracing is probably close to a wash. The K member created other issues I have yet to resolve (like the braces for the oil and trans coolers now have no mounting location)

As far as batteries go, there's a thread as long as your arm with great info on the AG batteries. I chose to go with a Watson relocation kit combined with a 30 AH series H5 battery. I could have went with the lighter 20 AH version, but we could spend 3 pages discussing the pros and cons of filled and AGL batteries vs Lithium Ion, but I think if you drive the car often, aren't some place bitter cold or it's a die hard track car, the AG batteries make sense. If you have a ton of accessories (like fuel pumps, stereo amps, etc) then I'm not sure the Lithium makes as much sense. Either way, I picked up about 20 lbs of savings and relocated it rearward which was worth the $1070.00 between the battery relocation and the AG battery ($100 more if you count the Lion battery charger which is almost a must).

 

[honeybadger]

Ford OEM K-member weighs 60lbs.
Steeda Road Race K-member is 47.5 lbs.
w/o the 2-point G-trac brace 41.5 lbs.

Lightweight CF Seats will save you quite a bit of weight and are a solid bang for the buck. They are very high on my list of upcoming parts.

Lithium batteries will shed you lots of weight up front. I ran a AntiGravity Battery for about a week, and it didn’t end up well for me. The car started glitching and overcharging causing the car to turn off and popped fuses. AG couldn’t figure it out and I just had to return for a refund, but I may try one more time here soon. Not ready to give up just yet! Other Shelby owners run lithium without issues...

Which AG battery did you run? The ATX20-HD is the one compatible with the GT350. I've had one for 2.5 years now and had no issues with it. I think you'd be the first to have issues if you're running the HD. The Restart (RS) one has quite a few issues with the GT350 specifically.

 

[Kobi Addiction]

I was going to say, my K member (the actual one in my car) is the one steeda featured in their marketing video (my K member is famous and they claimed about 19 lbs savings. I was already running their cross brace so I'd have to see apples to apples what it saved, but assume the cross bracing is probably close to a wash. The K member created other issues I have yet to resolve (like the braces for the oil and trans coolers now have no mounting location)

You can in fact mount the oil and trans coolers to the Steeda K-Member. I drilled and tapped the K-member for those brackets and also in various places for the undertray. You can reach out if you have any other outstanding questions about the install. I dropped a few photos so you can see where and how I mounted those pieces.

 

[Kobi Addiction]

Which AG battery did you run? The ATX20-HD is the one compatible with the GT350. I've had one for 2.5 years now and had no issues with it. I think you'd be the first to have issues if you're running the HD. The Restart (RS) one has quite a few issues with the GT350 specifically.

I ran the AG H5 / Group 47 / 24 ah Restart model. Once I had the issues, I just returned it and haven't given it another thought. I read the battery you mentioned has worked well for some, and that was the one I was going to try next. Again, I had just put it to the side and concentrated on suspension and other pieces with the thought of coming back to it another time.

It's great to hear you have had amazing success with the ATX20-HD. How do you have it mounted since its such a small battery? Will their SAE Adaptors work for our cars or another option works better? Thanks! I may just go ahead and buy another one. I really want to try again, its such a huge weight loss making the switch.

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