Car creeps witch clutch disengaged

[Kong76]

So I haven't given much thought to this and then started wondering if this correlates to my 1500 rpms clutch pedal vibes during disengagement. With the parking brake off on a flat surface and the car running if I press the clutch to the floor and shift to first the car will slightly creep forward about 3 inches. If I do the same thing in reverse it will creep back the same amount. I have not tried it in any other gear. Maybe this is normal idk. It would seem to me that my clutch is not fully disengaging.

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[CrashOverride]

if the clutch is dragging, it will probably continue to move the car. Try this (once!) Put it in 1st on a flat surface,push the clutch in all the way and rev to 3000-4000. If you have a slight drag, the car will move. If the car doesn't move, then you are probably fine.

If the car does move/you have a dragging clutch, and you should stop driving the car immediately. When your clutch drags, it kills your poor synchros in no time. I let it go too long in another car, and burned the 1/2 so bad, I had to double clutch most of the time to engage either gear.

 

[Kong76]

Ok thanks ill give it a shot.

 

[CrashOverride]

If it is dragging, you might get lucky and be able to bleed the clutch line.

 

[db252]

You’re most certainly getting drag if your car is moving in the direction of the corresponding gear with no slope or outside forces causing it. Is this the stock clutch or did you change it? If it was changed, the usual problem is the slave wasn’t bench bled. If air is trapped in the slave, no amount of pedal presses will clear it. The slave could just be failing as well. Other factors that can come into play are stack height of the whole assembly (flywheel through pressure plate) but that is almost non-existent in dealing with manufacturers making replacement clutches for our cars.

 

[Kong76]

You’re most certainly getting drag if your car is moving in the direction of the corresponding gear with no slope or outside forces causing it. Is this the stock clutch or did you change it? If it was changed, the usual problem is the slave wasn’t bench bled. If air is trapped in the slave, no amount of pedal presses will clear it. The slave could just be failing as well. Other factors that can come into play are stack height of the whole assembly (flywheel through pressure plate) but that is almost non-existent in dealing with manufacturers making replacement clutches for our cars.

This is on the second stock OEM clutch that was dealer installed along with my new transmission they replaced under warranty for what they said was loose synchros. I paid to have the clutch/flywheel replaced at 19k miles because they said it had half life left. They would not cover that a long with the transmission. I have documents that they also replaced the TOB and Pilot bearing as well. However I did not receive those used parts when I asked for them. I was told it was warranty work and needed to be shipped to Ford. I did get the original clutch and flywheel from them.

They kept the car overnight to bleed the system as they said which sounded weird because I assumed they had a vacuum for that. I am not completely convinced that was done correctly due to the clutch pedal vibes at 1500 rpms. I also went back and had that documented as well right after the clutch break in process was complete. I could go have the clutch system bled again and filled with fresh fluid to see. I did notice some slight black sediment in the clutch reservoir.

I am probably going to go aftermarket here soon once this fails. I will take it to a reputable clutch shop to have it done.

 

[Kong76]

I appreciate all the feed back fellas. This has been bothering me for the past 17k miles. Feels like it's just not right. I don't have any grinding issues. Sometimes 1st to 2nd I get locked out and I have to wait about 3- 5 seconds after pushing clutch in to go into reverse. I think that might be normal inertia idk.

 

[db252]

Well being a stock clutch definitely won’t be a stack problem. Other than dealing with the dealer again why not go back and have them fix it? Bleeding the line doesn’t take a day to do....10 minutes tops doing multiple vacuum pulls. Either way it seems as they should fix it for free.
If you ever truly want to change clutches to something else and you don’t mind driving up to the 94561 area I do them and you could watch/help to know it’s done right. PM me if you ever want to talk about as I’ve done more than I can count. Good luck and let us know what you decide and comes from this.

 

[Kong76]

I believe even though it was documented, I think too much time has passed since the clutch hasn't actually failed yet.

After seeing this particular dealerships shop, I would never take it there again to be touched. I would have no problem taking it to you and watching but how would that drive home work?

Aren't I suppose to stick to stop and go mainly for first 500 miles? No long freeway drives..

 

[db252]

Normal break in is as you say best done in stop and go city driving. There is no issue driving home at all. You could do the first 500 miles on a freeway and then get to city driving. Your break-in would just take longer technically. There is no issue other than don’t count the freeway miles back home.

 

[CrashOverride]

I appreciate all the feed back fellas. This has been bothering me for the past 17k miles. Feels like it's just not right. I don't have any grinding issues. Sometimes 1st to 2nd I get locked out and I have to wait about 3- 5 seconds after pushing clutch in to go into reverse. I think that might be normal inertia idk.

Man, this sounds every bit like synchro wear. When they wear, they can't equalize the shafts very fast, so you get blocked out like you said. If you think about it, when your clutch is pressed in, during that 3-5 seconds, the input shaft is coasting down. I don't know much about the MT82, but if it's not too bad to pull the gearset once you pull the trans, then I'd take a look at the teeth on the 1/2 and the reverse synchro (If it has one, I can't remember if reverse is synchronized on this gearbox). You want sharp teeth - if they are worn, then you will need a new synchro (best case) and depending on what the teeth look like on the gears themselves, you might need them as well. (When I say teeth in this manner, I am referring to where the shift collar slides, not the teeth that are meshed with the output shaft).

I really hope I'm wrong though. If you have an adjustable shifter, you could try and adjust it also, it's possible it's jamming up the gear selector inside the trans and that would cause the lockout issues (But still not the idle creep).

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