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Can I jack my car up right next to the pinch welds?

stannypack

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Need to get my car on 4 jackstands, I plan to do each corner at a time. Basically can I jack right next to the pinch weld so I can set the car down on the jackstand on the actual pinch weld?
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K4fxd

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These cars are stiff, just put your jack under the door and lift the whole side NASCAR pit stop style.

I think it is safer to jack under the engine cross member then jack under the diff unit. Some say the diff unit is not a jacking site.
 
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stannypack

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These cars are stiff, just put your jack under the door and lift the whole side.

I think it is safer to jack under the engine cross member then jack under the diff unit. Some say the diff unit is not a jacking site.
so basically jacking up anywhere along the whole pinch weld is fine? it'll only be for a moment while I set jack stands up under
 

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Paul's Pony

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In my experience the entire pinch rail is reinforced, in the past I jacked from the official point and then put my stand up on the front edge of the rail. For the rear I used the subframe rails for my stands.

Those "jacking points" are just there with a cutout in the plastic so that doesn't get crushed.
 

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I’ve jacked the car many times from different points on the pinch weld. Never had an issue. You will be perfectly fine jacking it corner my corner or even centering it and jacking one whole side up.
 
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stannypack

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thanks all, I have jack pads from zl1 but found it easier to just jack up the front from the subframe, pop 2 jack stands, repeat on back subframe

when I tried to do 1 corner at a time going clockwise it felt when I was jacking up the passenger side the driver side jackstand was being "pulled" like it was going to tip :surprised:
 
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stannypack

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In my experience the entire pinch rail is reinforced, in the past I jacked from the official point and then put my stand up on the front edge of the rail. For the rear I used the subframe rails for my stands.

Those "jacking points" are just there with a cutout in the plastic so that doesn't get crushed.
I think so too, the thickness of the weld at the 4 slotted arrow points is the same at all the other slotted openings
 

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thanks all, I have jack pads from zl1 but found it easier to just jack up the front from the subframe, pop 2 jack stands, repeat on back subframe

when I tried to do 1 corner at a time going clockwise it felt when I was jacking up the passenger side the driver side jackstand was being "pulled" like it was going to tip :surprised:
The exact reason I did QJ deal, insurance,.

Jacking one side @ a time.
Theory, if the floor jack rolls in or crawls inward as the car lifts. It will not pull the car off the stands ....... To qualify this works if one is using a correct floor jack, not a cheap junker.
 
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stannypack

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The exact reason I did QJ deal, insurance.

Theory, if the floor jack rolls in or crawls inward as the car lifts. It will not pull the car off the stands ....... To qualify this works if one is using a correct floor jack, not ca heap junker.
also probably didn't help that I was doing this all on bumpy asphalt making it even harder for the jack to roll as it lifted. My new 3 ton daytona jack lifts way higher and will give me more peace of mind to lift the front and rear half directly from the subframe
 

K4fxd

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when I tried to do 1 corner at a time going clockwise it felt when I was jacking up the passenger side the driver side jackstand was being "pulled" like it was going to tip :surprised:
This is why I think it is safer to lift the front of the car then the rear. I would not want the car falling.
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