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Can I hit 11.90 on stock tune?

ParanoidSVT

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Hello. New to the forum, I haven’t been in the performance game in about 15 years. I always played around with foxbodys and Lightning’s back in the late 90s and early 2000s

I have been tossing around the idea of grabbing a s550 for while now.. back in 2019 right before the pandemic I almost snagged one..

Right now the dealership has yet again almost the same exact car which has me itching again..

I’ve been watching YouTube videos since 2017 on them, and amazed at the power these guys are pumping out of them.

if I do jump and pick up this car I want to know how hard it is to get a bone stock one into the 11.90’s

joined the forum to see if you guys think I can get into the 11s with

bone stock motor & tune
10sp auto
Borla cat back exhaust
Steeda stop the hop complete kit
Weld racing wheels all the way around
305 radials
Aluminum drive shaft (I have heard they make an annoying sound? Never had a issue with my foxs or lightnings, anyone know if a video I can hear the annoying aluminum driveshaft sound?)
Ford racing beefing half shafts
Back seat delete (deleting the seat the second I get the car, it’s useless to me)

i completely understand a tune and 105 octane could get me there, but I don’t have e85 anywhere in the state. And by keeping it stock I don’t have to worry about losing my warranty

otherwise I’d add the JLT intake and tune it for 105

many advice on where I should post this question is greatly appreciated, thank you for your time
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blue5.slow

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what year are you looking at? There’s a pretty drastic difference in performance from 2017 and 2018.
 

331GT

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since you mentioned 10spd, you must mean 2018 and up, which yes, you can get into 11s. some have done it on stock tires/bone stock to my knowledge. with 305 radials and stop the hope, you should have an even better chance at 11.9s
 

WoodburnGT

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Just for reference. I’ve made 12 passes in my 22’ GT A10(3.55 rear end) stock except for 305 ET street R drag radials. Best 1/4 pass was a 12.5 @115mph.
i do have the upgraded drivers side GT350 halfshaft in it as well. I purchased the GForce Renegade axles, but I won’t put them in until I boost the car. They are extremely heavy and my feeling is it would slow your ET until you’re making more power then stock….that’s why I’m waiting to install mine.
Just had the car dyno’d on E85 and Kooks headers installed yesterday…I’ll be heading back to the track on the 20th. Should run low 11’s.
 
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ParanoidSVT

ParanoidSVT

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since you mentioned 10spd, you must mean 2018 and up, which yes, you can get into 11s. some have done it on stock tires/bone stock to my knowledge. with 305 radials and stop the hope, you should have an even better chance at 11.9s
yes sorry, the car is a 2021 I’m looking at. Back in 2019 I was looking at a 19 Oxford white with black out package

sure enough the same dealership just brought in a 21 Oxford white with black out package..

I’m itching so bad
 

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ParanoidSVT

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Just for reference. I’ve made 12 passes in my 22’ GT A10(3.55 rear end) stock except for 305 ET street R drag radials. Best 1/4 pass was a 12.5 @115mph.
i do have the upgraded drivers side GT350 halfshaft in it as well. I purchased the GForce Renegade axles, but I won’t put them in until I boost the car. They are extremely heavy and my feeling is it would slow your ET until you’re making more power then stock….that’s why I’m waiting to install mine.
Just had the car dyno’d on E85 and Kooks headers installed yesterday…I’ll be heading back to the track on the 20th. Should run low 11’s.
i wish I could do all that.. I’m crunched here in massachusetts with having to meet emissions.. wish we had e85 as well..

With all the YouTube videos I’ve seen it seems like swapping the half shafts are a must to play it safe

I figured if I’m throwing radials on I might as well swap out the drive shaft as well

but I’ve heard some people complaining that the aluminum shafts make noise? I’ve never experienced this in the past with fox bodies or lightnings. I did a YouTube search to try and find examples but can’t find any

anyone know of some videos on here giving examples of the aluminum drive shaft noise people are complaining about?

really appreciate everyone’s replies
 
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Now digging through old threads.. looks like aluminum shafts aren’t good for daily use because you need to re shim the pinion angle?

Is there any aluminum DS out there that doesn’t require re shimming on the pinion?
 

WoodburnGT

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Now digging through old threads.. looks like aluminum shafts aren’t good for daily use because you need to re shim the pinion angle?

Is there any aluminum DS out there that doesn’t require re shimming on the pinion?
If you’re going to daily the car with occasional racing I’d leave the stock 2-piece driveline in. You’re just going to increase NVH with the 1-piece.
 

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Hello. New to the forum, I haven’t been in the performance game in about 15 years. I always played around with foxbodys and Lightning’s back in the late 90s and early 2000s

I have been tossing around the idea of grabbing a s550 for while now.. back in 2019 right before the pandemic I almost snagged one..

Right now the dealership has yet again almost the same exact car which has me itching again..

I’ve been watching YouTube videos since 2017 on them, and amazed at the power these guys are pumping out of them.

if I do jump and pick up this car I want to know how hard it is to get a bone stock one into the 11.90’s

joined the forum to see if you guys think I can get into the 11s with

bone stock motor & tune
10sp auto
Borla cat back exhaust
Steeda stop the hop complete kit
Weld racing wheels all the way around
305 radials
Aluminum drive shaft (I have heard they make an annoying sound? Never had a issue with my foxs or lightnings, anyone know if a video I can hear the annoying aluminum driveshaft sound?)
Ford racing beefing half shafts
Back seat delete (deleting the seat the second I get the car, it’s useless to me)

i completely understand a tune and 105 octane could get me there, but I don’t have e85 anywhere in the state. And by keeping it stock I don’t have to worry about losing my warranty

otherwise I’d add the JLT intake and tune it for 105

many advice on where I should post this question is greatly appreciated, thank you for your time
Wallaceracing.com has online calculators. One of which is ET, calculated by crankcase horsepower and vehicle weight.
Screenshot_20220511-185046.png
 

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ParanoidSVT

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Thanks guys, just a new learner curve been out of this awhile
 

SDAMike

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Now digging through old threads.. looks like aluminum shafts aren’t good for daily use because you need to re shim the pinion angle?

Is there any aluminum DS out there that doesn’t require re shimming on the pinion?
Sounds like you are at where I was. How fast can you go on stock tune and keep the warranty?

I wouldnt go aluminum on the DS I would go CF if your intent on doing one so you can drop enough weight for it to matter like with a QA1. They are supposed to drop 1-2 tenths in the 1/4. But like mentioned above expect at least a little increase in NVH in places.

But otherwise 11.9 and below has been done on stock tune. Shedding rotational weight anywhere will help, ie. wheels, even more so with tires as the outer most weight matters the most, brake rotors, driveshaft. But also seats, less gas, etc. will help. Also opening up the driver side of the grille so the airbox can get a nice ram air effect cant hurt. A velossatech helps direct the air into it a bit better. Porting the intake manifold may help and would probably go unnoticed. A cat back exhaust will at a bare minimum drop decent weight. A K+N air filter has actually shown on the dyno to pick up a some hp IIRC it was 5 whp. You may get a coupe more whp with a intake like a injen / afe. I would pass on the half shafts for now.
 
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ParanoidSVT

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Sounds like you are at where I was. How fast can you go on stock tune and keep the warranty?

I wouldnt go aluminum on the DS I would go CF if your intent on doing one so you can drop enough weight for it to matter like with a QA1. They are supposed to drop 1-2 tenths in the 1/4. But like mentioned above expect at least a little increase in NVH in places.

But otherwise 11.9 and below has been done on stock tune. Shedding rotational weight anywhere will help, ie. wheels, even more so with tires as the outer most weight matters the most, brake rotors, driveshaft. But also seats, less gas, etc. will help. Also opening up the driver side of the grille so the airbox can get a nice ram air effect cant hurt. A velossatech helps direct the air into it a bit better. Porting the intake manifold may help and would probably go unnoticed. A cat back exhaust will at a bare minimum drop decent weight. A K+N air filter has actually shown on the dyno to pick up a some hp IIRC it was 5 whp. You may get a coupe more whp with a intake like a injen / afe. I would pass on the half shafts for now.
thanks for the advice! When do the half shafts start to fail?
 

LSchicago

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thanks for the advice! When do the half shafts start to fail?
All depends on traction and wheel hop, but some have had the left side go on a bone stock car when on a sticky track. It should be one of the first things you do. GT350 axles may cost less than a tow home from the drag strip. BTW, I had a 2000 Lightning too.
20689838_10154530048021580_5322678391050282730_o.jpg
 

SDAMike

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All depends on traction and wheel hop, but some have had the left side go on a bone stock car when on a sticky track. It should be one of the first things you do. GT350 axles may cost less than a tow home from the drag strip.
Damn really? I honestly never knew that.
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