Can GT 350 center gauges be installed in a 17 GT PP1 Car?

[opengl]

Okay gang. I can confirm I tried EVERYTHING to try to get oil temperature to the digital gauge, and failed miserably. So was going to order the GT350 gauge pod, and now ALL THREE Ford parts places I tried are charging a $300 core for p/n FR3Z-10849-E; WTF? Besides, our part is not the same, so I'd basically be spending $600 for the pod; no thanks. Hopefully there's a way around that. Oh, and the only place which offered a description said the -E part was for 2.3EBs. Not encouraging at all. Will go back here and try other posted parts places, and see if I have better luck. Thank you. By the way, wish I could just change the vacuum gauge for the oil temperature one, but it's probably not possible, right? It's like having a 300-mph speedometer; why? Ha ha.

EDIT: There's a video from CJ Pony on page 2, but they don't sell that part. Tried eBay and the cheapest price is $565, so seems official that freaking Ford made that part twice as expensive for us, non-GT350 owners. Well, they can stick it up their arses . I'm not going to pay that. If anybody finds a new pod for what they should cost (<$300), please post it. Thank you.

Just set up a saved search w/ email notification from eBay. Thats how I got mine, only took a few weeks. I paid $125 or so.

Edit: also don't search for the part number, most wreckers don't list that. Keep your search terms simple, I used "gt350 oil gauge" and limited to used parts to filter out most of the junk.

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[Elp_jc]

It's not that hard.

Nobody said it was . It'll most likely be a waste of time, since Ford reportedly doesn't process these orders anymore without a core charge (nobody has these parts in stock), but since I don't have any other choice, just gave it a try. By the way, they were reportedly working on updating their website with the $300 core charge, like all others did already. It's probably going to bomb during processing, but hope you're right, though . I'll find out soon enough, and post results . And thanks, anyway .

Just set up a saved search w/ email notification from eBay. Thats how I got mine, only took a few weeks. I paid $125 or so. Edit: also don't search for the part number, most wreckers don't list that. Keep your search terms simple, I used "gt350 oil gauge" and limited to used parts to filter out most of the junk.

Excellent suggestion, but not sure I'd go for such a used part. And if I do, I'd only buy it if it can be returned if defective, which I doubt on an electrical part. If the above experiment fails (as expected. Ha ha), I might give it a try, and see what comes up. Thanks again for the help; others might find it useful too.

 

[opengl]

Excellent suggestion, but not sure I'd go for such a used part. And if I do, I'd only buy it if it can be returned if defective, which I doubt on an electrical part. If the above experiment fails (as expected. Ha ha), I might give it a try, and see what comes up. Thanks again for the help; others might find it useful too.

Don't be afraid of used! As long as it looks clean you should be fine, and most good sellers have refund policies if it doesn't work. Mine looks brand new. View attachment 474601

 

[Elp_jc]

Just wanted to update this thread that my order with AutoNation Ford that Zooks527 linked, was cancelled (as expected). Plus the part now seems to be back-ordered until the end of days, so those of us late to the gauge pod party are screwed (by Ford). Oh well.

Now I'm following Opengl128's suggestion (on eBay), and see what happens. But most likely I'll have to live without an oil temperature gauge. Not the end of the world .

 

[opengl]

Just wanted to update this thread that my order with AutoNation Ford that Zooks527 linked, was cancelled (as expected). Plus the part now seems to be back-ordered until the end of days, so those of us late to the gauge pod party are screwed (by Ford). Oh well.

Now I'm following Opengl128's suggestion (on eBay), and see what happens. But most likely I'll have to live without an oil temperature gauge. Not the end of the world .

There's one for sale in the classifieds right now: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...enter-gauge-cluster-215-free-shipping.142573/

 

[Elp_jc]

Hey, you're 'DA MAN. Thank you very much. Just posted on the ad. The guy didn't clean the gauges well before posting, so hope it's just that, and not scratches. I should know shortly. Not looking forward to yanking out the dash (hope to be able to do it without any damage)... but I have a rattle coming from inside, so at least would kill 2 birds with 1 stone, so to speak. But have to get them first . Thank you again for your great help .

 

[Elp_jc]

Just heard from the seller, and he sold it already. Oh well. The quest continues . But now will search on that forum every once in a while too. Thanks again for the heads up; greatly appreciated.

 

[compprep]

I just paid $60 for a used set on evil bay!

has 2 more according to his listing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-20-Fo...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[Elp_jc]

Hey, good find. Those didn't pop up with my saved search. He used the stamped part number, not the actual part number. I sent him a message for a more precise condition report. Since you posted it here, hope they don't sell out before I get a reply. Next time PM me instead; ha ha. Thanks brother.

EDIT: You know, with my freaking luck, by the time seller sees my message, they might be gone, so went ahead and bought one. It's not going to get any cheaper than that. And if the guy knew a new one would cost close to $600 now (IF it was available), I'm sure I could sell it for $100 shipped if needed, to recover my 'investment' . But hope it works.

By the way, I remember reading that the gauge was more of an algorithm than a straight input from the oil temperature sensor. Does anybody know for sure? And those with these gauges, what is the regular oil temperature that the gauge shows, to know if it's working properly? And how about the oil pressure one? Let's say at 2K rpm when oil is fully hot, what should be the oil pressure on that gauge? Thx.

 

[BimmerDriver]

Hey gang, I'm going to mess with FORScan tomorrow for the first time, and have a couple of suggestions to add oil temperature to the middle gauge menu list; hopefully one of them will work.

Too lazy to go out to my car and take a picture, I thought that it was already there (2020 GT non-PP).

 

[opengl]

By the way, I remember reading that the gauge was more of an algorithm than a straight input from the oil temperature sensor. Does anybody know for sure? And those with these gauges, what is the regular oil temperature that the gauge shows, to know if it's working properly? And how about the oil pressure one? Let's say at 2K rpm when oil is fully hot, what should be the oil pressure on that gauge? Thx.

Correct, there's no real oil temperature sensor, it is a calculated value based on coolant temp and driving behavior, but does seem to be fairly accurate. Fully up to temp is similar to coolant, 190-210ish depending on what you're doing.

Pressure moves around a lot, especially on the 18+ as they have an oil control valve that plays with oil pressure in the name of fuel economy. You'll see it happen when you accelerate, instead of steadily rising pressure as revs increase, it holds until a certain point then shoots up quickly. 2k rpm is probably around 20psi when hot.

One other thing I meant to mention re: condition, you can very easily move your bezels over if the ones you get are scratched up. Just 3 screws. I did it anyway to my set so the bezel colors would match the rest of my interior.

 

[Elp_jc]

So if you move the bezel (which I will do), it also has the lenses??? That'd be perfect. And I can clean any impurities inside the gauge too, while being VERY careful not to touch the needles. I thought it was just the bezel, and not the lenses. That's good news then, as everything else that's visible (inside the gauges) was protected.

And thank you for the answers. It's a shame there's no direct info from the oil temp sensor, since there has to be one in there. Oh well. At least it seems more or less accurate. I basically want it to know when you can get on the engine (150+), if needed. Hope it's accurate at that temperature . Seems like for $60+ (with tax), it was worth getting those gauges... if they work. Ha ha. I'll find out soon enough. And check the values I get with yours, just to make sure they're on the ball park.

 

[Elp_jc]

Hey gang, just got the gauges. A little more beat-up than I was expecting, with a rear tab broken, but still able to hold the blue clip, which I hope it's all that is needed, with gouges everywhere; don't know who the hell removed them; an orangutan? Oh well. Since I'll use my trim, they should look like if they came with the car; just hope they work.

The main reason for this post is the left (oil pressure) needle is lower than it should be. Should I try to push it up to where the others are, which is with the top of the '0' barely showing? Mine is well below the dash line, with most of the '0' showing. Thank you.

 

[compprep]

Hey gang, just got the gauges. A little more beat-up than I was expecting, with a rear tab broken, but still able to hold the blue clip, which I hope it's all that is needed, with gouges everywhere; don't know who the hell removed them; an orangutan? Oh well. Since I'll use my trim, they should look like if they came with the car; just hope they work.

Wow, that stinks. Got mine today they look almost new. Not a scratch I can see, then again didn't look REAL close. My concern now will be removing the trim without doing the "orangutan" thing myself.

 

[Elp_jc]

You know, just removed my gauge, and the piece of tab on my stock gauge is broken at the exact same place. Weird, huh? But I didn't gouge it though (ha ha); at least it's not visible. There must be an interference issue, and the factory had to break it. Will scrutinize it tomorrow, before installing the piece back. Good to know it wasn't broken by carelessness, since I was worried about a hit affecting the accuracy of the gauges. Check yours. It must be broken too, with pretty sharp edges (I rounded them, to avoid injuring myself).

My removal didn't go as planned; broke 3 freaking clips, but seems like nothing permanent. The GT350 gauge pod came with 2 blue clips, so need to recover at least 1. But would like to recover all, so they're not potentially making noise. I DO NOT want having to remove this again.

Just noticed the needles on my stock gauges sit right above the hash-marked area. Can you post a visible photo of the needles on your gauge? I don't know if I should try to move the needles to where my stock ones are, or leave it alone. I'm working on installing rubber pads around the gauge rings, since they move, and that's what squeaks. Will make sure they don't make any noise, or have any movement before transferring the chrome rings. Need to know what to do about the needles before doing that, so I don't have to take them apart again.

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