camber plates- need more positive camber

[Robottrainer]

im starting to regret this lowering spring thing. from my cheapo magnetic camber gage im seeing about 2 3/4 neg on the right and 2.5 neg left with a 1 inch drop. it was 1.5/1.7 before.

I bought the MMRs but after looking at them they seem more geared to give you more negative and zero positive. i ordered some steeda but they say -.3 to -3.0, again, negative.

us there a plate that will give you at least 1 degree more positive, do I need offset bolts, or am I stuck with all thia negative camber in the street?

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[TopJimmyCooks]

The range of -.3 to -3.0 should be fine for you. That is the range of camber it will adjust to…it does not mean how much more it will adjust from your current setting. For instance, It won’t put -3.0 on top of your -2.75 for a total of -5.75.

You don’t want positive camber.

 

[Robottrainer]

I would need 1.5 degrees more positive camber. I'm at -2.75 and -2.5. Unless I'm mistaken, the camber plates are geared toward more negative. It doesn't appear I can the 1.25 positive I need. The camber bolts BMR FC003 seems like they would do the trick and it's an easy fix.

 

[Howitzer]

That seems like a lot of camber for just a 1 inch drop...I dropped mine 1.25" in the front and I was still only at -1.5 or so. I don't think I've heard of anyone getting what you're saying without camber plates. Are you sure you're measuring correctly?
Either way, you don't want positive camber. As topjimmy said, the range on camber plates are the total provided camber...not an addition to what you're at now.

 

[Robottrainer]

That seems like a lot of camber for just a 1 inch drop...I dropped mine 1.25" in the front and I was still only at -1.5 or so. I don't think I've heard of anyone getting what you're saying without camber plates. Are you sure you're measuring correctly?
Either way, you don't want positive camber. As topjimmy said, the range on camber plates are the total provided camber...not an addition to what you're at now.

When I had the alignment done last year I had -1.5 on one side, and -1.7 on the other. That was at stock PP1 height. I never checked it with my cheapo magnetic bubble camber checker, but my understanding is 1" lower yields an additional -.7 degrees. This makes since that I'm.seeing mid negative 2s. I'd like to get it in the mid to upper negative 1s.

 

[Howitzer]

When I had the alignment done last year I had -1.5 on one side, and -1.7 on the other. That was at stock PP1 height. I never checked it with my cheapo magnetic bubble camber checker, but my understanding is 1" lower yields an additional -.7 degrees. This makes since that I'm.seeing mid negative 2s. I'd like to get it in the mid to upper negative 1s.

You should be able to dial out the camber to what you want using camber plates. They adjust in both positive and negative. The ranges listed on them are for total achievable camber.

 

[Robottrainer]

You should be able to dial out the camber to what you want using camber plates. They adjust in both positive and negative. The ranges listed on them are for total achievable camber.

Would the camber bolts work?

 

[Howitzer]

Would the camber bolts work?

Yes, camber bolts should work as well for that purpose.

 

[Robottrainer]

Yes, camber bolts should work as well for that purpose.

Here's what I don't understand. Steeda advertises their plate with a range of -0.3 degrees to roughly -2.5. If I have -3 with the oem mount and I want to go positive 1 degree to get roughly -2, it seems the plate won't get me there as it's range is all negative. BMR says their cam bolts has a range of +2.5/-2.5 degrees

When I lay the MMR plate onto of the shock tower and put what's showing of the shock rod through the top bearing and slide the plate all the way forward, the three mounting bolts don't line up with oem bolts. I'd have to move everything inwards to line it up which is even more negative.

I didn't install the MMR plate since they don't supply the all of hardware to make it fit the oem magneride. The oem nut doesn't work and there customer service isn't the greatest especially getting stuff sent to Canada. I have to source my own nuts. I just figured that out.

 

[bnightstar]

Here's what I don't understand. Steeda advertises their plate with a range of -0.3 degrees to roughly -2.5. If I have -3 with the oem mount and I want to go positive 1 degree to get roughly -2, it seems the plate won't get me there as it's range is all negative. BMR says their cam bolts has a range of +2.5/-2.5 degrees

Are your plates maxed with the strut nut all the way to the left to the wheel ? I'm 1.0" lowered and with steeda Camber plates I can get easy to -1.2 or so camber and I'm not maxed to the left. So you ether didn't install your camber plates correctly or there is a lot of negative camber from the spindles which I suggest you can correct. Also you don't need positive camber on the front as this is dangerous -1.2 is totally in the stock range.

 

[Howitzer]

Here's what I don't understand. Steeda advertises their plate with a range of -0.3 degrees to roughly -2.5. If I have -3 with the oem mount and I want to go positive 1 degree to get roughly -2, it seems the plate won't get me there as it's range is all negative. BMR says their cam bolts has a range of +2.5/-2.5 degrees

When I lay the MMR plate onto of the shock tower and put what's showing of the shock rod through the top bearing and slide the plate all the way forward, the three mounting bolts don't line up with oem bolts. I'd have to move everything inwards to line it up which is even more negative.

I didn't install the MMR plate since they don't supply the all of hardware to make it fit the oem magneride. The oem nut doesn't work and there customer service isn't the greatest especially getting stuff sent to Canada. I have to source my own nuts. I just figured that out.

Im doing a little assuming here but I think the advertising is like that because camber bolts are an additive to what you have and show range of additional adjustment. Take what you have, and you can add/remove x camber in either direction.
Camber plates are not, so they are advertised as total achievable range with their plates. Other factors may affect that, but if the camber plate says -0.3 to -2.5 you should be able to get fairly close to the -0.3 total camber (it doesn't just add -0.3 camber to what you have).

Plates can be adjusted positive and negative directions. Pushing the plate inward adds negative camber. Pushing it out away from the car adds positive camber.

And yeah, I think you were asking about the MMR plates in another thread. I have the same plates on my car now. No magneride but factory style struts (I had to get MMR to send me some extra hardware).

I don't know what you mean by the bolts not lining up though.

 

[Robottrainer]

Im doing a little assuming here but I think the advertising is like that because camber bolts are an additive to what you have and show range of additional adjustment. Take what you have, and you can add/remove x camber in either direction.
Camber plates are not, so they are advertised as total achievable range with their plates. Other factors may affect that, but if the camber plate says -0.3 to -2.5 you should be able to get fairly close to the -0.3 total camber (it doesn't just add -0.3 camber to what you have).

Plates can be adjusted positive and negative directions. Pushing the plate inward adds negative camber. Pushing it out away from the car adds positive camber.

And yeah, I think you were asking about the MMR plates in another thread. I have the same plates on my car now. No magneride but factory style struts (I had to get MMR to send me some extra hardware).

I don't know what you mean by the bolts not lining up though.

By the bolt holes not lining up was just a crude test I did. Pushing the the plates outward at full positive and then laying it on top of the strut tower with strut assembled and installed band the stub of the shock rod through the center bearing.

It appears everything would have to move inwards to get the bolts through the tower holes which would be more negative. Maybe this isn't a true representation of what's going on.

Right now with the cheapo bubble level magnetic camber checker stuck to the rotor I have roughly 2 degrees neg camber at the front both sides with the oem hardware. In the rear In the BMR camber lock out and the BMR cam arms (non adjustable) these are a bit longer then OEM. I have them in the inward holes. I have -1.75 on the left and 2.25 on the right rear.

 

[Robottrainer]

Are your plates maxed with the strut nut all the way to the left to the wheel ? I'm 1.0" lowered and with steeda Camber plates I can get easy to -1.2 or so camber and I'm not maxed to the left. So you ether didn't install your camber plates correctly or there is a lot of negative camber from the spindles which I suggest you can correct. Also you don't need positive camber on the front as this is dangerous -1.2 is totally in the stock range.

I don't have them installed. Just laid them on top of the strut tower over the installed strut with oem hats. Just wanted to see how the line up. At full positive they appear to need to moved onward to line up the bolts with the existing bolts which means more negative.

Too many surprises with this job. I don't want to rip everything apart again, install the plates only to find out I get more negative than I have now. So I'm checking everything I can think of.

 

[bnightstar]

I don't have them installed. Just laid them on top of the strut tower over the installed strut with oem hats. Just wanted to see how the line up. At full positive they appear to need to moved onward to line up the bolts with the existing bolts which means more negative.

Too many surprises with this job. I don't want to rip everything apart again, install the plates only to find out I get more negative than I have now. So I'm checking everything I can think of.

Your positive camber will be limited by the strut tower opening as the strut nut is higher than the opening. You are not going to get more negative. And as I said I'm guessing that you moved the spindle nuts and gained camber from there when assembling. You need some negative camber in this cars. I don't get what your goal is ?

 

[Robottrainer]

Your positive camber will be limited by the strut tower opening as the strut nut is higher than the opening. You are not going to get more negative. And as I said I'm guessing that you moved the spindle nuts and gained camber from there when assembling. You need some negative camber in this cars. I don't get what your goal is ?

My goal is to get a streetable setting. If anything I'm trying to gain another .5 degree positive. I'm at neg 2 now going by the cheesy bubble gage which probably isn't too bad. The rear is 1.75 negative which again isnt to bad. The rear is locked out with non adjustable BMR cam links set at the inner hole. I think the outer would be too much positive. If thats what it is when I get the toe checked on the rack I'll leave it there.

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