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Caliperfextion Stud Kit - Where to buy?

ZX3ST

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All these do is hold the caliper while you change pads.
Far from it. You're thinking of the addon accessory to make pad changes easier.

The studs they're discussing are structural. The main selling point is that pad changes don't require repeated bolt R/R on the aluminum knuckle.
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luc

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In this case the studs are precision engineered and designed specifically for this application. They are manufactured to exact tolerances. Homemade bolts and sleeves would be very dangerous to use on brakes. My hope is that there will be good news soon on production of these. Like many things these days, supplier and vendor issues seem to be the new normal.
Can you technically explain why a bolt of the correct grade and size and a sleeve used to match the id/od of the bolt/caliper, torqued correctly, would be dangerous?
The force applied to the calipers bolts under braking is not tension but rather shear
Such a blanket statement without any technical analysis to support it is nothing more than an opinion
 
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btown93

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To each his own, but removing a bolt head and using a sleeve is a poor choice. The M14x2 threads that go into the knuckle are not what you want on the nut end and that's essentially what you're talking about doing
 

luc

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To each his own, but removing a bolt head and using a sleeve is a poor choice. The M14x2 threads that go into the knuckle are not what you want on the nut end and that's essentially what you're talking about doing
First of all, it’s not a matter of choice but rather a possible solution since the studs are currently unavailable
Furthermore, since I don’t have a caliper, I don’t know if the nut side need to be threaded to 14x2 or machined to 1/2x20, as on the studs
If 14x2 was possible it would be stronger rather than weaker since 14mm is a larger diameter than 1/2” (12.5mm)
Anyhow my point was not to start an argument but simply to see if you comment was based on a technical analysis or simply a feeling/opinion and obviously it is the latter
 
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Epiphany

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btown is right. You implied about cutting the head off a bolt. Well, the threads in the knuckle are M14 x 2. You'd then need an M14 x 2 sized nut - too coarse. That isn't feeling or opinion.
 

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pilotgore

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btown is right. You implied about cutting the head off a bolt. Well, the threads in the knuckle are M14 x 2. You'd then need an M14 x 2 sized nut - too coarse. Beyond that, you'll struggle trying to get the M14 x 2 size through the caliper body. That isn't feeling or opinion.
Just who do you think you are…. Some kind of expert or somethin!?!?!?
 

luc

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btown is right. You implied about cutting the head off a bolt. Well, the threads in the knuckle are M14 x 2. You'd then need an M14 x 2 sized nut - too coarse. That isn't feeling or opinion.
If threads need to be cut, 14x1.25 can easily be done and would be similar to 1/2x20 in pitch
As I said I don’t have a caliper so I don’t know if 14mm will fit or not
As for x2 being too coarse, not sure what you mean by that. Usually coarse thread are used in soft material, in this case aluminum, and fine in hard material
Are you saying that 14x2 would not offer adequate tensile strength for a nut in this application?
I always enjoy technical discussions, even if they prove me wrong
 
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Epiphany

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I only commented on what you said previous which would be cutting the head off a bolt and using a sleeve.

M14 x 2 goes into the knuckle and I didn't say it was too coarse on the knuckle end. I said it would be too coarse on the nut end. I stated nothing about tensile strength/M14 x 2 thread.

Bottom line and as btown was getting at...you want an engineered fastener at the knuckle/caliper interface and not a bolt with the head cut off with a sleeve slipped on and a nut using the wrong pitch for this type of application.

I should add, you mentioned cutting threads if needed. While you can indeed cut threads, they are inherently weaker than a rolled thread which is what a properly engineered fastener of this type should be using.
 

btown93

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The OE bolts per the workshop manual are one time use. Typically any time Ford specifies one time use it is for a reason. If you look at the factory bolt you can see how its a little more involved than what you stated which was:

Any machine shop can do the studs. I would tale some long, good quality bolts and have the shop cut the head/bolt to length and cut some threads in it on the cut side
You can even do it yourself with a good set of dies

Based on what you said, you make it sound like anyone can go buy a threaded rod, cut it to length, and boom there are your studs.

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2200B350/m...MIkOTf_M7O-QIVFZfICh3eoQZ2EAQYAiABEgLJkvD_BwE
 

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@luc and @Epiphany both make interesting points.

So, is it possible (setting practical aside for the moment) to turn a bolt into a stud? Of course. Get a M14x2 bolt about 6" long, cut it to length, put a nut on it and you're done. Sounds easy. Practically, not so much.

The recessed hole in the top of the caliper is too small for most M14 nuts. If you search, you might find a nut small enough across the flats that it would go down the hole, but you don't have a prayer of putting a socket wrench on it to tighten it. And finger tight won't work, so that approach is a dead end.

So, instead you start with a partially threaded M14x2 bolt, so it has a smooth shank, and you cut it off to length and then turn the shank down to a size that's small enough that a nut and a socket wrench will fit inside the recess on the top of the caliper. This sounds like a path to success, but actually, all it does is replace one problem with another problem. Strength. The reduced shank has to be strong enough to handle the super high tension needed to hold the caliper on.

Caliperfexion solves the strength problem for you - it's engineered to be strong enough - a combination (I'm guessing here) of material, machining methods and heat treatment that guarantees a stud that works and is strong enough. Achieving that with a commercial bolt, even a high strength one, is going to be tough. It might work, but the penalty for it not working is pretty high.
 

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Epiphany

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Of critical importance regarding a stud is the overall length and ultimately projection beyond the machined flat where the underside of where a nut would reside. There is little room for error here and achieving full threads on a properly sized nut without having the stud extend too far is critical. The threads in the knuckle do not extend to the bottom of the bore and can vary. This has a direct impact on stud design that isn't a concern when a bolt is used as a bolt can terminate prior to bottoming out (which the factory bolts do).
 

DonnieO

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The fact that it's a ph 17-4 should tell you enough about the quality of the caliperfexion stud. It's not your average grade 8 from the bolt store.

Ph 17-4 is a martensitic stainless steel that is corrosion resistant and very strong. It'll hold its strength and hardness properties up to 600f
 

Epiphany

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Sounds like a golden ebay opportunity.
 

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btown is right. You implied about cutting the head off a bolt. Well, the threads in the knuckle are M14 x 2. You'd then need an M14 x 2 sized nut - too coarse. That isn't feeling or opinion.
This is off topic, but has anyone ever told you that you look a LOT like Denzel Washington in your avatar photo? :giggle:
 

Epiphany

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Better Denzel than George.
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