CAI vs K&N - Cobb V3 Stage 1

[FraG]

Heyas, just decided to take the plunge and bought a Cobb v3 for my MY17 Ecoboost. Essentially intend to run Stage 1 w/ 93 (98 RON in Australia) - only thing I want to do at this stage is also either install the Airaid CAI or K&N.

I have read that the CAI will only be marginally better than the K&N - its $500 vs $100 and I am not looking at doing to much more this year.

Down the track, if I decide to keep the car longer than 3 years (may wait for G7 before upgrading) I may end up doing a Cat back and even FMIC and move to stage 2 tune.

I bought the Cobb to get that mild KW bump and more so Torque.

I guess my question is, is the CAI going to be worth it that much more than the K&N filter, I read a lot of conflicting advice on the EcoBoost engines.

EDIT: I should add, I went for the Cobb as Ford Australia has seriously let Mustang owners down, no performance parts, no performance tunes nothing. I was quoted $1200 odd for a custom dyno tune here which is just too much for what is essentially a bob stock car at this stage with 5000kms on clock.

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[vegetakid24]

my first upgrade would be an FMIC.. especially if you are running a tune..

 

[FraG]

my first upgrade would be an FMIC.. especially if you are running a tune..

FMIC is definitely something on the radar especially in lieu of the hot climate I live in. See how my tax return goes haha

 

[Ecoboobs]

In west oz we hit can hit 45 deg C in summer so with those hotter temps we get, the stock airbox with a drop in filter is the way to go.

 

[FraG]

In west oz we hit can hit 45 deg C in summer so with those hotter temps we get, the stock airbox with a drop in filter is the way to go.

Im in WA as well

My main issue is all the stuff I read about the drop in filters letting in too much dust etc into the engine for very marginal gains. I read that the 93 stage 1 is fine on a completely stock car as its not too agressive. Best of all from my reading it really gives MT a boost in race mode where its a little too passive on stock tuning..

Not sure what to believe or what to do, prob going K&N over CAI at this stage but may just see how she goes with stock filter first. I only ever run BP 98 so fuel should be nice

 

[Woodshop77]

As of my last understanding - the stock air filter box with a high flow filter is more efficient than any aftermarket CAI, that is, if you are going to tune the car...

 

[FraG]

In west oz we hit can hit 45 deg C in summer so with those hotter temps we get, the stock airbox with a drop in filter is the way to go.

Should ask, did you get a FMIC done? Any suggestions how much an install would cost. I would do it myself but probably break off tabs etc mounting everything haha.

As of my last understanding - the stock air filter box with a high flow filter is more efficient than any aftermarket CAI, that is, if you are going to tune the car...

Thanks for confirming some of the stuff I have read. So many mixed messages lol, but yeah I'll prob end up with the K&N as they have a longer interval between needing to be washed and re-oiled.

 

[AR306]

I haven't heard anyone say that any CAI is better than the stock box with a high flow filter.. not sure were you're getting that from.

Everyone here seems to believe that the stock box with a drilled out grille inlet, air raid modular tube and a green filter/K&N is the best choice for performance. Some have shown numbers and graphs.. my butt dyno tells me my car runs way better with the above mentioned (minus the mod tube) vs. the MMR CAI I had previously which was a cone filter located near the wheel well with the largest diameter metal tube available for this car.. it sounded awesome but it heat soaked like crazy.

 

[Woodshop77]

Thats what i said- what the info i just said that says a stock box with drop in is better than other CAI's

 

[Elgyn]

Heyas, just decided to take the plunge and bought a Cobb v3 for my MY17 Ecoboost. Essentially intend to run Stage 1 w/ 93 (98 RON in Australia) - only thing I want to do at this stage is also either install the Airaid CAI or K&N.

Inter cooler done yet?

 

[DRU842]

I've been investigating a similar path based around Cobb gear since delivery of my Ecoboost in Sydney last year. I've been to the local Cobb Gold distributor who really seemed to know their stuff & gave me alot of confidence & ideas on the directions to take for my goals - a solid GT car. The mods are on hold until next year (bathrooms first says, she who must be obeyed

 

[Juben]

I would recommend an AEM Dryflow (preferred) or Green. With the AEM being a dry filter, maintenance is much easier and it still performs well very well. K&N filters have some of the highest flow rates of air filters on the market, however, that comes at the expense of filtering.

In any event, either choice would be an upgrade from the stock paper filter, but you usually end up choosing between filtering and flow.

 

[Maggneto]

I use the drop in K&N on all my vehicles over the past 20 years without issue. I have the recharge kit and clean them every couple of years when needed. Keep the stock filter so you can revert when the K&N is drying.

 

[solodogg]

I use the drop in K&N on all my vehicles over the past 20 years without issue. I have the recharge kit and clean them every couple of years when needed. Keep the stock filter so you can revert when the K&N is drying.

Also ran a K&N for years on numerous vehicles until I decided to investigate why my oil would turn coal black after just a few hundred miles. Swapping back to the stock paper filter provided no noticeable performance loss, but the oil would stay dark golden for thousands of miles. Spent some time on BITOG reading oil analysis, and noted high silicon levels from K&N users, and that was it.

I drive my cars a lot, and need them to last, so I'll trade a couple of ponies for less dust/dirt in my oil. In Florida I can't drive 5 miles without being sandblasted by the car in front of me, I definitely don't need any of that in my intake.

 

[Juben]

Also ran a K&N for years on numerous vehicles until I decided to investigate why my oil would turn coal black after just a few hundred miles. Swapping back to the stock paper filter provided no noticeable performance loss, but the oil would stay dark golden for thousands of miles. Spent some time on BITOG reading oil analysis, and noted high silicon levels from K&N users, and that was it.

I drive my cars a lot, and need them to last, so I'll trade a couple of ponies for less dust/dirt in my oil. In Florida I can't drive 5 miles without being sandblasted by the car in front of me, I definitely don't need any of that in my intake.

You've either got flow or filtering. There's always trade-offs. Here's an interesting read for those interested about the relationship between filtering and flow: clicky clicky

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