Bull's Jack-of-all-trades 2015 EB Premium PP

[Bull Run]

Took some pictures of the new exhaust while the car was on jack stands.

3" DP to 3" inlet, followed by dual 2.5" outlets to GT resonator back pipes. Believe it over not, GT resonator outlets are necked down to close to 2.25". I sawed the necked down portions off, but it prevented GT pipes from going into the muffler straight, so I had a shop weld them on with an extension pipe.

The shop also tack welded the joints and clamps to prevent them from moving over time, but it's also preventing me from leveling out the tips. I'll just have them fix it.

Here are my thoughts on this experiment:

1. I went with dual rear pipes because I picked up the GT pipes for free, which allowed me to mock up the exhaust and drive around before welding them.

2. If I were to do this again from scratch, I would've just went with a single 3" pipe out the back, which should save about 10 additional pounds.

3. Compared to the previous setup, this is noticeably louder around low 1,000 RPM to low 2,000 RPM. Not much of a difference during warm idle or cursing around 2,500 RPM, which is the engine speed while I'm cruising on the city highway.

4. I ordered the OBDLink MX so I can use it with Forscan to disable ANC and fake engine noise to see if they make a difference.

5. I'm good with some added noise for weight savings and better flowing exhaust, but stick with GT mufflers if you want something that flows better than EB mufflers but need to keep the noise down as much as possible.

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[Bull Run]

It's FORScan Time!

The Li-Ion battery charger/tender came in today. It came with two types of connectors; clamps for temporary clamping onto the terminals, and ring terminals for a more permanent installation.

I chose the ring terminal connector so I can quickly hook up the charger as needed.

With the charger hooked up and charging the battery...

... I installed another item that came in the mail today.

With OBDLink MX paired with my laptop, I was able to connect to the vehicle modules via FORScan. Using the FORScan software was pretty easy.

I found the "As-Built Data Guide" in the DIY section and [MENTION=31737]TorqueMan[/MENTION] was kind enough to supply the code to disable the fake engine noise. I changed the following items that I considered to be a priority for me:

1. 12v Powerpoint Timeout: immediate timeout
2. Dark car/police mode: enabled
3. Double Honk Reminder: disabled
4. Fake engine noise/ANC: disabled
5. Navigation: enabled
6. Address change in motion: enabled
7. Stereo Extended Play: disabled

I'll review other settings and make further changes as needed. As for the navigation, I followed the directions on one of the spreadsheets posted in the thread:

Step 1 Download latest Sync update to a blank FAT-32 formatted usb drive and install. (It said mine was already updated, thus nothing to download)

Step 2 Download NAV updates to a blank FAT-32 formatted usb drive and install. (Couldn't find any NAV updates, skipped this portion)

Step 3 In FORScan, go to programming screen for APIM and change 7D0-01-02 to: x4xx xxxx xxxx to enable NAV and click continue.

Step 4 Download the NaviPatch file on the right and copy to a blank, FAT-32 formatted usb drive. (Link to the file is in the spreadsheet)

Step 5 Insert usb drive with NaviPatch.png file into truck's usb port and go into Settings, Display, Edit Wallpaper. Press "Add", press "USB Disk", select NaviPatch.png and in the image preview window press "Unlock"

Step 6 Optional: Backup your ACM Module in FORScan so you don't lose your presets that the following step will erase. In ACM Programming screen, click "save all" button at the bottom and name it. After step 6, return to this screen and click "load all" button at the bottom, click your saved ACM file, then click "write all" button at the bottom and your presets should be restored. (Skipped this part)

Step 7 Perform a master reset to factory default on screen.

Step 8 Purchase and load navigation maps from dealer or "obtain" from other sources.

After the master reset, upper right corner of the screen now says "Insert Nav SD Card", so I think the procedure worked. I ordered the latest map (A9) from Amazon and will post here if that makes the navigation functional.

 

[Meraki Autoworks]

Nice build sir!

-Josh

 

[GuardEcoBeast]

What is the dark mode/police mode? I might have to get forscan just to enable address change in motion lol.

 

[Bull Run]

What is the dark mode/police mode? I might have to get forscan just to enable address change in motion lol.

Interior lights do not come on when you open the door.

 

[Bull Run]

Enabling the navigation

I ordered the latest map, A9, from Amazon for $110 with same day delivery for the Prime members. It's $149 on the Ford web page, and I doubt that they offer same day delivery.

I was disappointed when I first put the A9 SD card into the slot, as "Insert Nav SD Card" message remained as if it wasn't reading the card. The original instruction did state that the Ford blocked the navigation enablement on the later versions of software, but I didn't want to give up that easily.

I found that Ford owners page lies to you and states that whatever the version of Sync software's on the car is the latest. It turns out version 3.10 is the latest release (likely also the final). I found the install file here, which I downloaded and unzipped onto a 2GB USB thumb drive.

Since the update process takes about 30 minutes, I hooked the battery changer back on and started the update process by turning the car on and plugging in the thumb drive.

After several reboots, the completion window pops up. It states V3.8, but you can ignore that. The story is that V3.10 wasn't available for download by regular owners, so some kind folks obtained V3.10 files and combined them with the V3.8 installation file.

After the final reboot, you can verify that the version number is indeed 3.10. You can also check the navigation and map versions on the same screen.

Success!

I noticed that the bootup screen changed from the Mustang to Ford logo after the update. I don't see why it can't be changed back, but I'll leave it as is for now.

 

[Bull Run]

Mixing my own 50/50 WMI mixture

Adam and folks at ProMeth advised me to stop using the Snow Performance Boost Juice as it can leave deposits that clog up the nozzles. I ordered a pair of 5 gal VP Racing fuel jugs with sprouts, a sprout for VP 5 gal pails, picked up a pail of VP M1 methanol form a local speed shop, and grabbed distilled water from the grocery store.

This worked out well since I can mix pre-mix 5 gal of methanol with 5 gal of distilled water and store the 50/50 mixture in a pair of 5 gal fuel jugs. This will pay for itself since you can make the mixture at the half the cost of getting premade mixtures from Snow.

 

[Bull Run]

I felt that drone from low 1K to low 2K RPM was getting excessive. I heard good things about Vibrant resonators, so I had a shop weld one on with 3" inlet and outlet in front of the Magnaflow muffler. It made a big difference in the drone reduction and good tradeoff of about 4 lbs in net weight gain. Some drone still remains but it's on par with the differential noise from aluminum diff bushing inserts, so I'm good with it.

 

[Bull Run]

Finalized the suspension upgrades by replacing remaining bushings with spherical bearings to reduce deflection. Stock parts were replaced with:

Steeda Front Control Arm Tension Links with Spherical Bearings

Steeda Toe Links and Bearing Assembly

Steeda Rear Control Arm Spherical Bearings

I didn't have access to a hydraulic press, so I farmed this job out to a shop while I was out of town for vacation. These upgrades really firmed up the suspension and the car handles even better now. The speed limit for major city roads around here are 45 MPH around here and I can execute left turns without having to slow down even on relatively cheap street tires. The car felt very stable and could've handled higher speeds, but I'll wait until I'm at a track to test the limits.

At this point, I have almost every suspension parts that Steeda and BMR offers, so I'll start focusing on additional weight saving mods and retrofitting options. Navigation's already added and I have parts for adding BLIS/CTA coming in later this week, followed by UCDS to enable the line lock. Trufiber lightweight CF hood's also on order to shave some weight off of the front.

 

[TicTocTach]

Love this thread! I'll probably never do 80% of these mods, but it's great seeing someone push the limits on a streetable build...

 

[Bull Run]

Love this thread! I'll probably never do 80% of these mods, but it's great seeing someone push the limits on a streetable build...

Thanks! It went from "I'll be happy with just IC, DP, and tune upgrades." to series of "Just one more upgrade!". It may be time consuming but fun to do incremental upgrades to see how small sets of parts improve the performance.

 

[MakStang]

I have to say here that you folks in the US must be very happy with buying Mustang parts at these prices. Mustang parts in Europe cost way too much (an arm and a leg sometimes). Modding a Mustang is so much easier in the US.

Great job @Bull Run , I follow your thread because I really enjoy what you do to your car

 

[Greg94]

I have follow most of your mods. The only thing is that i ended up adding weight. I have the 50 years option w/o perf pack. So no grille shutters and base brakes. The front Baer brakes and GT calipers added about 7 lbs. because they are larger. the ATM cooler added a whopping 30. The K, strut and chassis braces added 22 more. I also added the rear baer GT brakes.... I finally saved 2 lbs on the rear. Even the Steeda springs are slightly heavier. Oh and the resonator is not as heavy when you subtract the y-pipe. Now in saying all this. The car handles and drives beautiful. Would not change a thing. Please keep up the great work. Im looking into tackling that balance shaft. We’ll see bout that.

 

[Bull Run]

I have to say here that you folks in the US must be very happy with buying Mustang parts at these prices. Mustang parts in Europe cost way too much (an arm and a leg sometimes). Modding a Mustang is so much easier in the US.

Great job @Bull Run , I follow your thread because I really enjoy what you do to your car

Thanks! Even the CPE stock location IC is noticeably heavier than the flimsy stock unit, but I left my shutter off so that probably offset the weight gain. I didn't weigh the Steeda STB or K-member brace but I like a firm ride so some weight gain was worth it.

Speaking of weight, I was told that Trufiber A81RL hoods ETA got pushed back to mid-October. A72RLs are in stock so I'm having them send that one instead.

 

[Bull Run]

Added BLIS and CTA for about $300 in parts. Posted a step by step guide at https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...stem-blis-and-cross-traffic-alert-cta.107623/.

I wanted to keep the concave mirrors that came with non-BLIS optioned cars, so I opted to add LED lights inside. I temporarily wedged the wires between pillars and dash so I won't end up with holes in the pillars if I change my mind later.

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