Bull's Jack-of-all-trades 2015 EB Premium PP

[Blue Moon]

Are you happy with the Eradispeed rotors? I like everything I've read about those, except the price tags. Still debating if the light weight is worth that much money right now.

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[Bull Run]

Are you happy with the Eradispeed rotors? I like everything I've read about those, except the price tags. Still debating if the light weight is worth that much money right now.

I'm happy with them so far, but their bang per buck for weight savings is far less than the wheel upgrade. For example, four Advanti DST HY Hybris wheels cost about $1,000, and provide 48 lbs of unspring/rotational savings over PP 19" wheels.

Rotors provide 17.4 lbs savings for $1,440. Also, weight savings on the rotors are mainly in the hat, which has much smaller diameter than a wheel, thus saving wheel weight has far more impact on performance.

Then you get down to CF driveshaft, which saves about 12 lbs for $1,300 (granted, there are other benefits besides the weight).

Since you already have upgraded wheels, I think that you'll get better bank per buck performance wise with IC, downpipe, and pro-tune. As for me, I'm pretty maxed out on the power mods unless an E54 station opens near me, so I'm getting the car ready with supporting mods for the eventual built engine swap.

 

[Blue Moon]

IC is definitely going to happen, but probably not downpipe. I live in a quiet neighborhood and don't want any more noise than I already make with the BMRP street catback.

I'd also like CF fenders and hood, if I win the lottery. Which isn't likely since I don't buy the tickets. Before that I'll probably try turbo blanket, GFB DV+, and maybe IWG 7 psi actuator.

 

[MakStang]

[MENTION=33152]Blue Moon[/MENTION], let me correct you, it’s MBRP, not BMRP :cheers:

I would suggest that you go for the Tune+ WGA, you will see great improvements, but then you will have to get a pro-tuner (I went with Adam) to tune your car. Also GFB DV+ is great, you will get a better throttle response.

 

[Bull Run]

IC is definitely going to happen, but probably not downpipe. I live in a quiet neighborhood and don't want any more noise than I already make with the BMRP street catback.

I'd also like CF fenders and hood, if I win the lottery. Which isn't likely since I don't buy the tickets. Before that I'll probably try turbo blanket, GFB DV+, and maybe IWG 7 psi actuator.

Catted DP should help with the noise control but I had stock mufflers when I did the swap so not sure how it'll sound with BMRP.

For the IWG, the rule of thumb is to get the spring rate that's about half the target rate of boost. So if you're target is around 25 PSI, I'd go with 12-13 PSI springs.

 

[Bull Run]

I'd also like CF fenders and hood, if I win the lottery.

[MENTION=33152]Blue Moon[/MENTION], are you talking about 2015-2017 Mustang Carbon Fiber A81RL Hood (Lightweight)
? Looks like it'll save close to 20 lbs compared to the stock loaded hood, and also comes with functional heat extractors. Probably won't attract too much attention if painted to match the rest of the car.

They also have a CF trunk that weighs 15 lbs and looks stock (minus the finish).

As for fenders, is there any noticeable weight savings or are you trying to go for the GT350 look?

 

[Blue Moon]

https://andersoncomposites.com/collections/all/products/2015-2016-mustang-fiberglass-front-fenders These are the fenders I like. I think they're different enough from the 350 fenders that I won't seem to be trying to make my EB look like it's something that it's not.


https://trufiber.com/shop/2015-2016-mustang-carbon-fiber-a72rl-hood/ This is the hood that I like. I know I don't need a scoop, but they're just cool, right?

 

[Bull Run]

My charge air temp readings are about 8-12 degrees higher than ambient while cruising. I wonder if those hoods can lower the charge temp by increasing airflow around air piping.

Looks like those fenders may be able to help extract the under-hood heat as well.

 

[CrazedAntelope]

Very nice build so far. In for more dyno results!

 

[Bull Run]

Updated picture with 285/40/19s

Attached are updated pictures with 285/49/19s all around. I'm preferring this setup more than staggered as I can take fast left turns on green arrow with confidence.

Next up: I see that folks are having good luck with 350R front and rear sway bars. I ordered a set with matching bushings and brackets to see how they'll do with EB PP springs with Pro-Action dampers. I received an e-mail stating that the rear bar is on back order for 2-4 weeks, so it may be a bit before I receive and install them.

 

[Bull Run]

Updated dyno after the re-gap

Weather's starting to warm up, so I did another dyno session at the same shop with a Mustang dyno after re-gapping spark plugs down to .024". Ambient temperature was about 10 degrees higher than the first session.

Not sure if it was due to the higher temp, run being started at a slightly different RPM, or combination of both, but the second run didn't show a sharp torque peak in the beginning, which resulted in showing almost 15 lb/ft at the peak. I'm not worried about it as torque curve looked almost the same between sessions after 4500 RPM, and the main concern was spark blowouts at high RPM.

As shown on the graph below, there weren't any signs of spark blowouts that resulted loss of power around 5800 as seen in the first session. HP graph slowly climbs up until near the redline. I also no longer get random cylinder misfire codes logged after high RPM runs.

Despite the higher temperature, re-gap resulted in about 8.5 WHP gain:

Max HP
342.9 @ 6349 RPM (+8.1)
357.6 with WCF (+8.5)

 

[GuardEcoBeast]

Im curious to see your take on the 350R bars. I wonder how they perform on an EB. I was looking at the non-R bars for my car.

 

[Bull Run]

Battery Relocation

Update the on lithium-ion battery

I drove over to a bowling alley/putt-putt golf place after the last dyno session to spend some time with the family before flying out to a convention. It was warmer than usual and I was going slow due to being stuck behind a moving truck. Soon after I parked and shut the engine off, car lost all power. I suspected triggering of thermal protection for the battery, so I popped the hood and removed the battery cover. Sure enough, power came back after letting the battery cool off for a few minutes.

I didn't want to switch back to stock battery as conventional batteries don't last long in the Phoenix area heat, either (Carfax history showed that original battery replacement within the first year, and battery in my wife's CRV died within 1.5 years). Therefore, I decided to relocate the battery. Since the battery is much smaller and lighter than the stocker, I chose area by the passenger side fuse box to limit the length of additional cabling.

I ordered External Racing Battery Jumper Block Charging Post Kit to connect extended battery cable to stock battery terminal without modifying it. I removed the negative terminal post as it was not needed. Removing battery box uncovers various drain holes that lead to wheel well area.

Took wheel well off to uncover the wiring grommet. It has a nipple that can be cut. Hole created was perfect size for 2 AWG welding cable used for the relocation.

Pulling the carpet in passenger side firewall area revealed this foam block piece, which was removed to create additional space for the battery. It can probably be cut/shaped into a battery holder if that area ends up being the permanent spot for the battery.

This is the current resting spot for the battery. It's light enough (under 4 lbs) that cables and carpeting jammed around it should be enough to prevent movement.

This stud/nut was chosen for grounding location as voltmeter showed very low resistance between it and the bolt used to ground the factory negative terminal cable.

The bump is hardly noticeable with carpet and floor liner covering it.

Grounding point of the factory negative terminal cable.

Cable cutter and lug crimping tool set that I got for $33 off of Amazon exceeded my expectations and made making cables a breeze.

 

[Bull Run]

Preventive Maintenance Part III

Radium PCV baffle plate and valve finally arrived in this week!

OEM PCV oil separator and valve are marginal even at the stock boost level. Aside from the infamous idle smoking issue, stock PCV valve is known to leak at high boost level. One common solution is to gut the valve, add a catch can, and add a check valve to prevent pressurization of the crankcase during boost. However, I decided to ditch the stock parts in favor of the Radium kit.

Compared to the stock unit, Radium plate has two baffles to prevent oil from entering the hose. Yes, there was oil present in the line when I unplugged it from the stock plate.

Radium plate also looks better. Too bad it's covered up with intake in place.

I forgot to take a picture of it, but Radium PCV valve has a standard hose barb fitting rather than a quick-connect type. Rather than cutting the hose that came with the JLT catch can, I cut the hose connection on the stock valve and made a quick-connect adapter out of it.

I took a look at the intake valves while I had the intake off and they seem to be clean. Not sure if the credit goes to WMI, catch can, or both. (apologies for the blurry picture)

 

[Bull Run]

Velossa Tech Big Mouth Ram Air Kit

This is how the Big Mouth looks installed behind an EB grille. I already had the holes drilled out (need to go back and clean them up) last year.

The Big Mouth fits nice and tight on the outer edge of the grille, which keeps it in place. It lines up perfectly and you can easily see to the end of the stock airbox.

However, there is a gap on the inner side. I personally don't think it's a big deal as you won't get an airtight seal with the GT grille either.

A view from the top.

You can't really tell that it's installed, which's great for someone like me that's going for the stealth. If you want to show it off, you'll need to either completely cut out the honeycomb portion or use a GT style grille with an opened up fang.

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