NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
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- #1
I’ve been working on the long tube header installation on my 2019 Bullitt for the past three days. Prior to this, I had done one other LT install on my previous S197 Mustang. On that one, I dropped the entire K member. I had planned to do the same on the Bullitt, but ran into a problem getting the lower strut bolts to release after hitting them with a hammer. I only had a carpenter’s hammer on hand, so I had to work around the K member. I’ll share some lessons learned, so that the next person doesn’t struggle with certain parts of the install like I did.
- Tip: Strap the steering wheel in place, so that when you disconnect the steering shaft, the steering wheel doesn't rotate and lose it’s clocked position. I’ve heard that it is really a big deal to correct if you allow this to occur.
- Support engine and transmission with a jack. I used my scissor jack for my motorcycle (1000 lb capacity) with a tree stand on top of that to gain the necessary height. I also used two old phonebooks, so that the transmission wouldn’t rest directly on the tree stand.
- Remove motor mount plates (accessed top nuts from engine bay with three long extensions and then removed studs and bolts mounting the plates to the engine, followed by the starter last, as this makes accessing the starter bolts easier.
- Tip: Removing all studs made the factory header removal much easier on the passenger side. I struggled with removing it for over an hour before I decided to remove the studs, after which the header came right out.
- Tip: Run a thread chaser (not a tap) through all 16 holes. Note: This is a long and tedious process, but it is very necessary to make sure that the new header bolts go in with ease. The reason this step takes so long is, you have to tighten, loosen and tighten the chaser repeatedly until it is seated. Don't forget to spray the chaser with WD-40 or some other type of lube.
- Installation of new headers was a little tricky. The instructions said to install the four bottom bolts about three threads in, to hang the header off of. This would not work for me. After about 30 minutes of trying, I resorted to installing the most forward bolt and gasket, hung the header on that bolt and then with the rear of the header resting on my head, aligned the rear of the gasket and installed a rear bolt, so that the header could hang without me having to continue holding it. Note: All bolts screwed in super easy by hand only. Once all bolts were in, I used a combination of a 1/4” ratchet, 13 mm socket, short extension and a 13 mm box wrench to snug up all bolts.
- Running a thread chaser through the motor mount bolt holes also made installation of the Steeda polyurethane motor mount bolts super easy as well. These were torqued from the top of the car via the engine bay.
That’s as far as I have gotten today. I will attempt to torque all header bolts tomorrow. If anyone knows of a torque sequence chart or diagram, will you please post it in this thread? Thanks.
Here are some photos for reference.
- Tip: Strap the steering wheel in place, so that when you disconnect the steering shaft, the steering wheel doesn't rotate and lose it’s clocked position. I’ve heard that it is really a big deal to correct if you allow this to occur.
- Support engine and transmission with a jack. I used my scissor jack for my motorcycle (1000 lb capacity) with a tree stand on top of that to gain the necessary height. I also used two old phonebooks, so that the transmission wouldn’t rest directly on the tree stand.
- Remove motor mount plates (accessed top nuts from engine bay with three long extensions and then removed studs and bolts mounting the plates to the engine, followed by the starter last, as this makes accessing the starter bolts easier.
- Tip: Removing all studs made the factory header removal much easier on the passenger side. I struggled with removing it for over an hour before I decided to remove the studs, after which the header came right out.
- Tip: Run a thread chaser (not a tap) through all 16 holes. Note: This is a long and tedious process, but it is very necessary to make sure that the new header bolts go in with ease. The reason this step takes so long is, you have to tighten, loosen and tighten the chaser repeatedly until it is seated. Don't forget to spray the chaser with WD-40 or some other type of lube.
- Installation of new headers was a little tricky. The instructions said to install the four bottom bolts about three threads in, to hang the header off of. This would not work for me. After about 30 minutes of trying, I resorted to installing the most forward bolt and gasket, hung the header on that bolt and then with the rear of the header resting on my head, aligned the rear of the gasket and installed a rear bolt, so that the header could hang without me having to continue holding it. Note: All bolts screwed in super easy by hand only. Once all bolts were in, I used a combination of a 1/4” ratchet, 13 mm socket, short extension and a 13 mm box wrench to snug up all bolts.
- Running a thread chaser through the motor mount bolt holes also made installation of the Steeda polyurethane motor mount bolts super easy as well. These were torqued from the top of the car via the engine bay.
That’s as far as I have gotten today. I will attempt to torque all header bolts tomorrow. If anyone knows of a torque sequence chart or diagram, will you please post it in this thread? Thanks.
Here are some photos for reference.
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