My 5.2 Predator motor Frankensteined ported heads just got finished by RPG. Going to run with my Gen 3 Whipple and see if I can reach 1000 to the wheels.
The strongest block of the options you are considering would be a sleeved Gen 2 with the longer 12 mm head studs . Sleeves would be at least $2K . L&M charges $1K for the 12 mm conversion ... so that’s at least $3800($3K in the block work +cylinder supports +$800 for new block )....but @Jackson1320 says he has had the machining for 12 mm head bolts done for free.A friend of mine cracked his stock gen 2 block making over a 1000hp around the base of the head studs. Dumped water into his oil. I want to make around 1000hp at the wheel without any issues but I don't want to spend unnecessary money if I don't have to. Someone on this post, mentioned this can happened and sent a L&M link about the 12mm head bolts . My question is.. should I get the 12mm headbolts and keep the stocks sleeves, get sleeves and go without the 12mm bolts or get both?... or get a 18 shortblock since they come with 12mm head studs. I realize I'll have to get the block machined to have the 12mm head bolts installed. Thanks
What are cast in cylinder supports? Sleeves? How much power can the predator block handle?The strongest block of the options you are considering would be a sleeved Gen 2 with the longer 12 mm head studs . Sleeves would be at least $2K . L&M charges $1K for the 12 mm conversion ... so that’s at least $3800($3K in the block work +cylinder supports +$800 for new block )....but @Jackson1320 says he has had the machining for 12 mm head bolts done for free.
The strongest sleeved block would be a predator -$3800 -($1800 +$2K sleeving) which is already machined for the longer 12 mm head studs .... and has the cast in cylinder supports .
It seems to me that’s the best option if you want a sleeved block (not sure how a sleeved Gen 3 block would compare .. if it’s comparable then that would be the best/cheapest option at less than $3K)
For a non sleeved block the predator ($1800)that is already machined for the 12 mm head bolts, has the cast in cylinder supports , but a closed deck , would be the better option (but more expensive ) than the unsleeved Gen 3 coyote -$850(also has cylinder supports/machines for 12 mm head studs but has more of an open deck).
IF you have to pay $1K to have the Gen 2 block ($800) machined for the 12 mm head studs ... and then add cylinder supports I think you might as well get the stronger predator block for the same price .
This might be the way to go bro thanks... but its not sleeved... and it can handle 1400?? This block is just stronger in general... then the gen2 coyote s
Gen 2 heads will work right?
I was looking at TKM. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see how much they charge to install the 12mm head bolts and change out the standard H beam Manly rod to a Tuff rod.
Just get an unsleeved predator block and save moneySooo... the must have's.. for a built block to make more then 1000hp on a continuous basis without catastrophic issues...if I'm going to use a gen 2 motor are
1. 12mm head bolts ( block will need to be machined. Prevent the block from cracking around the head bolts)
2. Sleeves ( strengthen the block)
3. 4032 pistions( for reliability vs the 2618)
4. Pistion coating ( scavenging heat out of the motor)
5. H BEAM TUFF RODS( I can't afford I-beam lol)
They say the stock crank and main caps are very strong.
Is there anything I'm missing relating to the shortblock build?
Thanks for the help guys. I'm trying to learn as a go.. I'm only trying to do this shit once. Realistically... I would like to make 900 plus but if I ever wanted to turn it up.. I'll have room to grow. But reliability is the number one thing I'm concerned about.