Brembo Shelby Super Snake Brake Kit

[Benjamin Hundred]

Hey guys, I got an offer for the front and rear Brembo brakes from a Super Snake. New from Shelby they’re over $8K, I can buy the set for $2,900 with about 15K miles on the setup.
Shelby Front Brakes
Shelby Rear Brakes

Does anyone have any experience with this brake setup? Is it worth the cost? I’m currently running the base 4 Piston setup and just ordered the red Bullitt Brembo front brakes for $600, but I’m aiming to swap in a GT500 engine and DCT(along with all the wiring etc) at some point in the future after all the handling and frame reinforcement is complete. I’m wondering if these would out perform a OEM GT500 brake setup.

Tryna make a convertible GT500, already got the body and interior done.

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[EFI]

I’m wondering if these would out perform a OEM GT500 brake setup.

Probably not, but they are still a good upgrade over your base brakes and that's a decent price for what you get.

However it still all seems way overkill especially compared to a more budget option that you already mentioned (Bullitt or GT350 brakes).

Unless you're a hardcore road racer and are looking to shave the last few tenths per lap I think these are kinda pointless.

 

[BlackandBlue]

If your brakes will make the ABS work from XXX until you are stopped, you don’t need more braking force. Your tires are the limiting factor.

What bigger brakes will give you is more cycles until overheated. I would go for the cheaper brakes and put the money elsewhere.

 

[paulm1]

I think those are 16" front rotors. the biggest concern I would think would be the spindles/knuckles and rims. you may have to swap them out which will add a lot more money to the project. I know gt350 rear knuckles are different from a GT

 

[Angrey]

As already pointed out, the vast majority of modern cars are traction limited, not brake limited. All of them can lock up the tires and activate the ABS system. Adding more brake won't help you stop any faster. What it will do is help you stop consecutively without fade or loss of brake function.

Be careful what you wish for. Unless you're TRULY using the additional brake sizing, it adds unsprung weight (the worst kind) and also forces you to go with larger wheels (again, rotational inertia, thinner profile tires are about the only options, etc).

Extra brake capacity/capability is like carrying around a 10 lb backpack of emergency food with you 24/7. In the event you ever need it, it's great, but the rest of the time you're just slogging around unnecessary weight that is in the way.

 

[Magnetic Stang]

Maintenance costs would skyrocket! Changing those rotors and pads will cost another $2 grand!

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Hey, thank you for all the replies! You’ve all got some really great points that helped.
I’ve decided to go the Bullitt 6-Piston setup instead, already had new OEM rotors and got some new StopTech Z26 pads. Cost about $700 when all done and made a huge difference.

I wasn’t sure if it’d be some major difference in performance with the Shelby setup, but in comparison to the rest of the car it’s overkill. When I looked more into the Shelby setup it looks like the fronts are the same size as the GT PP/Bullitt setup (15” 6-Piston) and the pads alone are about $900 for a full set. I don’t track it at all and I want the added safety of stopping faster as I’ve had several situations/close calls with bad drivers where the added stopping power has saved me, plus it’s an excuse to have Brembo’s ha ha

The wheels would be one of my next upgrades, would like an OEM GT500 setup to match the rest of the car, but I’ve never had 20” wheels and don’t know if the extra inch would mess up ride quality as it’s a daily driver.

One issue I did run into with install was the shields, I thought I had the small GT PP shields and didn’t. So I reused the larger 4-Piston shields as they fit just fine and I’d assume are better for daily driving protection than the super small PP shields as I don’t track it and oddly my fender liners don’t have any airflow tunnels for the brakes either.

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

 

[Angrey]

Hey, thank you for all the replies! You’ve all got some really great points that helped.
I’ve decided to go the Bullitt 6-Piston setup instead, already had new OEM rotors and got some new StopTech Z26 pads. Cost about $700 when all done and made a huge difference.

I wasn’t sure if it’d be some major difference in performance with the Shelby setup, but in comparison to the rest of the car it’s overkill. When I looked more into the Shelby setup it looks like the fronts are the same size as the GT PP/Bullitt setup (15” 6-Piston) and the pads alone are about $900 for a full set. I don’t track it at all and I want the added safety of stopping faster as I’ve had several situations/close calls with bad drivers where the added stopping power has saved me, plus it’s an excuse to have Brembo’s ha ha

The wheels would be one of my next upgrades, would like an OEM GT500 setup to match the rest of the car, but I’ve never had 20” wheels and don’t know if the extra inch would mess up ride quality as it’s a daily driver.

One issue I did run into with install was the shields, I thought I had the small GT PP shields and didn’t. So I reused the larger 4-Piston shields as they fit just fine and I’d assume are better for daily driving protection than the super small PP shields as I don’t track it and oddly my fender liners don’t have any airflow tunnels for the brakes either.

The GT350 fronts are 15.5", which is part of the reason they're so expensive, they don't share commonality with any other Ford product. The rears are 15". On the GT500, they increased to 16" front and decreased the rear slightly.

As far as wheels go, ensure you consider the WHOLE system.

The traditional wisdom is to go with as tight a radius as the brake size will allow. This reduces rotational inertia and unsprung weight. Those actually have demonstrable effects on power/torque you're able to put to the pavement.

However, my regret with 19" is the availability and offerings of tire specs. You can't get bigger than 30 series profiles in the larger widths, so the height of the car suffers. A 30 series on a 20" wheel setup is generally over an inch taller of a wheel/tire. You can get the 35 series profile tires, but only in slightly narrower widths.

Furthermore, 19" is a bit of a bastard size, so the market doesn't offer the same depth of products and variety as it does for 18" or 20".

As far as GT500 stockers, those wheels (like the 19" stock GT350 wheels) are heavy AF. If you go 20" that's fine, just know that in additional to having more rotational momentum from the radius, they're also HEAVY so it takes quite a bit of brake to stop them/slow them. That's more brake effort and ultimately more dust and less pad life. I'd go with something a little more lightweight in 20" if I were you. Obviously cost gets a vote and you can probably pickup stock GT500 wheels cheap, but they weigh as much as a Dodge coupe.

 

[K4fxd]

If you are going for a Shelby GT500 clone convertible the Shelby badged calipers will go a long way in selling it.

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