Brakemotive rotors

[JuRuKi]

On Monday I installed the rotors with the Powerstop Z26 pads all the way around on my 2017 GT Premium w/PP. I did manage to go out and go through the bedding process right after the installation and needless to say I had some messy wheels when I got back home. Granted the bedding process really heats up the pads and rotors and I am sure that had a lot to do with the excessive dust.

Sadly shortly after getting home it started raining and the car has been in the garage ever since so I can't comment further on the brake dust. I will say that the braking performance is easily on par with the factory performance pack pads. Is it better? I haven't had enough time to test that. It sure looks a lot nicer especially with the S350 wheels. If the brake dust is reduced, it will surely be a plus!

Please report back with updates when you get a chance
Im about to pull the trigger on the same pads.

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[d4rk_hrs]

I just installed the Power Stop rotors and z26 pads and I have only driven the car for the pad bed-in process and a 20 mile drive the day after.

The biggest thing I have noticed right away is the car does not have that initial bite/grab when applying the brakes like the stock pads. Which I find to be better. No more jerking forward every time I hit the brakes. This will be a big plus in stop and go traffic.

Not sure how best to describe this.... The other thing I noticed in this short drive is. When applying the brakes you can feel the pads are harder than stock. They don't feel squishy and grabby like the stock ones. Again, which I prefer over stock. It feels like you have more smoothness/control to braking and can better modulate the amount of pressure to apply to the brake pedal. Think of it like the stock clutch spring versus the Steeda clutch spring.

The stopping power seems to be just like the stock pads. I did a couple of hard stops and the car slowed as quickly as the stock pads. More driving time will confirm or deny this observation.

I don't track the car so I have no idea how well they would do in that setting. As a strictly street car. I am completely happy with the new setup.

The other big plus. Washed the car to get the brake dust off the wheels and no instant rusty rotors.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Nice write-up, [MENTION=20909]d4rk_hrs[/MENTION]. Thanks.

 

[5.0_SD]

So those that are using the the Z16's that came with the kit...what are impressions of them? Trying to decide if I need the Z26's or not....not tracking anytime soon.

 

[JuRuKi]

I got z26's because i like to go on canyon runs and downhills are pretty hard on the brake pads. If you only use your car to commute z17's are more than fine for the job.

 

[JuRuKi]

I called a shop to get a quote for installation for pads and rotors and they quoted me $150! I said no thanks and went to amazon to buy this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Any other special tool i would need to do this installation? Maybe a rubber mallet to loosen the rotors?

 

[d4rk_hrs]

I called a shop to get a quote for installation for pads and rotors and they quoted me $150! I said no thanks and went to amazon to buy this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Any other special tool i would need to do this installation? Maybe a rubber mallet to loosen the rotors?

You will need a punch or a small diameter philips screw driver and a hammer to knock out the pins that hold the front pads to the caliper. That clip is under tension. Tap out the bottom pin first.

The worst part I found doing the job is pushing down on that clip and sliding the pins back in while holding the pads in place. Damn... what a screwed up design. The pads on my C6 Vette were so much easier.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Highly recommend this long-reach punch set from HF. $9. Can't go wrong.

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html

 

[JuRuKi]

I will try to tackle this install soon after i receive my nail punch. hopefully i wont run into any problems. I have a little bit of bad luck modding lol

 

[bbudman]

Actually the whole rotor/brake pad replacement is a pretty simple job on these cars. As d4rk_hrs said, the hardest part of the whole job is getting the pins back in after replacing the pads. The Way I did it was to get the bottom pin in first and then took my thumb and pressed the stainless retaining clip down hard and then took a small hammer and tapped the pin in to place once I had it lined up.

 

[MustangPapi]

Impressions

Can anyone who has had these drilled and slotted rotors for some time comment on the durability? All I hear on this site is drilled will crack and slotted only is the way to go. Looking to buy some for cosmetic reasons but would like something that will last! Thanks

 

[jbailer]

Can anyone who has had these drilled and slotted rotors for some time comment on the durability? All I hear on this site is drilled will crack and slotted only is the way to go. Looking to buy some for cosmetic reasons but would like something that will last! Thanks

Are you tracking the car? The only time you'll have problems with that is with extreme heat then cooling. For normal use, drilled and slotted is fine.

 

[Pulser8]

I plan to install these tomorrow and have a few questions for you guys that have gone through this already. Did you replace the rotors first, then pads or vice versa? I ask because it seems that the pads are easily replaced without touching the rotors. Also, other than having to compress the caliper in the rear, is there anything else special about the rears that isn't obvious?

Last question, did you guys have to bleed the brakes afterwards? I haven't seen anyone have to do that with typical pad replacement.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chef jpd]

Joined the brakemotive club today.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/25158971@N03/0z6P63

https://www.flickr.com/gp/25158971@N03/88qA92

 

[JuRuKi]

I plan to install these tomorrow and have a few questions for you guys that have gone through this already. Did you replace the rotors first, then pads or vice versa? I ask because it seems that the pads are easily replaced without touching the rotors. Also, other than having to compress the caliper in the rear, is there anything else special about the rears that isn't obvious?

Last question, did you guys have to bleed the brakes afterwards? I haven't seen anyone have to do that with typical pad replacement.

Thanks in advance.

I replaced the rotors first, bolted calipers back on and then changed pads. For the rears you need a special tool to screw them back in by turning them. Not sure if that part was obvious to you.
No bleeding of brakes needed.
I didnt have a rubber mallet and one front rotor was really stuck so i kinda damaged my stock one using a regular hammer :headbonk:

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