Brake Pad advice for street/track compromise? Non-PP

[Optimum Performance]

Morning folks,

I’ve recently gotten into a bit of tracking my non-PP 2021 GT. So far just have done a few laps at VIR and a trackcross at summit point.

i am tracking that I need to get some higher temp pads and fluids before a HPDE track day. Any advice on good pads for this plus daily driving? I know it’s a compromise.

so far I’m looking at EBC Bluestuff or Dynamic Friction Active Perf - low metallic. The DF ones are far cheaper.

I would greatly appreciate any experience or anecdotes on this subject. Thanks!

Charlie,

What are your true goals here? Everyone pretty much gave you the correct advice on G-LOC pads. The issue is heavy fast Mustangs and semi-adequate brakes for track use.

If you are honest with yourself and track the car to become a better driver, a compromise will work. If you go out there with zero instruction trying to win an HPDE trophy, you will melt the brake system down in a few laps.

I strongly urge anyone to go out with an instructor, and not a guy in a Miata, a guy that drives a Mustang, Camaro, Corvette etc. Let them drive your car for a few laps, so they no what the limit of the handling and braking is. Let them find the limit of the brake pad you choose, and how to react when you do, because you will find the limit at some point. Then we they are instructing you they can give you far better instruction on where to push and were to ease off.

That said, if budget is a concern, start with R10 Fronts, R8 rears, calm enough on the street, but handle about twice the temperature of the OEM pads. They are very rotor friendly for a race compound. You have a radio and power windows in case you ask about noise. You need brake cooling up front. Run a brake deflector at minumum, we carry Bamberg Engineering Deflectors. Ducted brake cooling is usually far more effective but is more complicated to install and requires regular maint.

If you have a more open budget run GS-1 pads all the time, and then when you have a track day you can put on R12/R10 compounds. This way the expensive race pads only wear out on track. You can just swap the day before and head to the event. The compound family is all cross compatible so there is not rotor preparation while swapping pads after the initial install. This will provide the best of both worlds, low rotor wear for all street driving, sufficient temperature for track use.

Front G-LOC Pads

Rear G-LOC Pads

Rotor Temperature Paint

We will have the Brake Cooling Deflectors on our website tomorrow.

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[cth777]

You’re going to burn through track pads, so getting a dedicated set of pads for the street and another set for the track is only an additional up front cost. In the long run you come out way ahead on cost.

Add to that the fact you really shouldnt run the track pads much below about 50% pad thickness, thats another reason to save the track pads for the track.

Then there is the extreme dust and sometimes spine shivering noise when you run them on the street.

So GLOC R12 front and R10 rear will take the heat on the track. For a new driver you might be able to get by with less. Then GLOC GS1 for a compatable street pad which wont require you to resurface the rotors when uou swap pads.

If you absolutely wont run dedicated street and dedicated track pads, then run the track pads on the street and be proud knowing you’re the kind of hardcore sports car driver who doesnt mind perpetually dusty brown wheels and screeching brakes because track car. (You can buy the street pads later but don’t skimp on brakes with a 3800lb muscle car or really any safety thing when tracking at high speed)

This makes total sense, and I absolutely get that I’m going about this in a suboptimal and less efficient way. My issue stems from the fact that I live in a condo building and am not allowed to do any maintenance in the parking lot, including switching pads

 

[cth777]

Charlie,

What are your true goals here? Everyone pretty much gave you the correct advice on G-LOC pads. The issue is heavy fast Mustangs and semi-adequate brakes for track use.

If you are honest with yourself and track the car to become a better driver, a compromise will work. If you go out there with zero instruction trying to win an HPDE trophy, you will melt the brake system down in a few laps.

I strongly urge anyone to go out with an instructor, and not a guy in a Miata, a guy that drives a Mustang, Camaro, Corvette etc. Let them drive your car for a few laps, so they no what the limit of the handling and braking is. Let them find the limit of the brake pad you choose, and how to react when you do, because you will find the limit at some point. Then we they are instructing you they can give you far better instruction on where to push and were to ease off.

That said, if budget is a concern, start with R10 Fronts, R8 rears, calm enough on the street, but handle about twice the temperature of the OEM pads. They are very rotor friendly for a race compound. You have a radio and power windows in case you ask about noise. You need brake cooling up front. Run a brake deflector at minumum, we carry Bamberg Engineering Deflectors. Ducted brake cooling is usually far more effective but is more complicated to install and requires regular maint.

If you have a more open budget run GS-1 pads all the time, and then when you have a track day you can put on R12/R10 compounds. This way the expensive race pads only wear out on track. You can just swap the day before and head to the event. The compound family is all cross compatible so there is not rotor preparation while swapping pads after the initial install. This will provide the best of both worlds, low rotor wear for all street driving, sufficient temperature for track use.

Front G-LOC Pads

Rear G-LOC Pads

Rotor Temperature Paint

We will have the Brake Cooling Deflectors on our website tomorrow.

Thank you very much for the detailed feedback. My goal for now is just becoming a better driver and having some fun on track, not worried about setting lap records. If anything, I’d save the competition for auto/track cross.
My budget is also limited… especially heading into ski season, haha.

good to know about the brake deflectors, I’ll look into that!

 

[K4fxd]

My issue stems from the fact that I live in a condo building and am not allowed to do any maintenance in the parking lot, including switching pads

You can switch pads at the track. The 4 pot fronts can be changed in 15 min or less. Leave the race pads in the rear.

good to know about the brake deflectors, I’ll look into that!

They only work if you have the new design rotors.

 

[Flyhalf]

Hello. Some info
I'm not a big fan of GLOC for street purposes only because they tend to be a lot noisy on the street. But they are popular for many.
Braking power of track pads on street are ok. I never ever noticed issue on braking cause "too cold"
But

Dust and noise are the issue with track pads.

Can you leave with these issues? If yes then go and keep track pads all year around

If not ,as suggested, you swap them before the event (just the front. Leave alone the rear)
Pads are like "girls" (or men) . Everyone will give you their preference. That doesn't mean is a universal good or bad.

Few facts Though.
1. Z26 IS NOT a track pad. NEVER EVER USE IT.
2. GLOC are a good compromise doesn't dust too much but when cold it whistle and "scream" often. (U find them on Opmustang.com )

3. Hawk DTC70 or 60 is cheaper and not that noisy but it dusts like a MF. (AND you need to clean wheels often cause is also bad for paint)
4. I really like the counterspace garage ones. They have an aggressive and less aggressive compounds. But not sure there is a mustang 4piston size.
5. No one use EBC on track. I would avoid them.

Here if case you need more.
Alessandro

 

[cth777]

You can switch pads at the track. The 4 pot fronts can be changed in 15 min or less. Leave the race pads in the rear.

They only work if you have the new design rotors.

Wow, really that easy?

I hate to admit it but I’ve never changed brake pads myself. Planning to try it out when I decide on new ones.

why leave the ones in the rear - just because of the brake bias and less force on the rear?

 

[K4fxd]

why leave the ones in the rear -

Because you have to remove the caliper to change rear pads.

Front all you have to do is remove a clip, then pull 2 pins and the pads pull straight up and out.

 

[cth777]

Because you have to remove the caliper to change rear pads.

Front all you have to do is remove a clip, then pull 2 pins and the pads pull straight up and out.

Oh now that is interesting. The tutorial I watched shows that you have to remove the front calipers too

 

[K4fxd]

The tutorial I watched shows that you have to remove the front calipers too

Not on the 4 piston.

I use a plastic trim tool to push the pistons back when changing pads. Before removing the pads. This is to get enough room to install the new thicker pads.

 

[paulm1]

Other option, power stop Z26 or track pads

That's what I use. If you are on the base brakes though I think you should upgrade to brembo and add some cooling as well as fluid upgrade to higher temp.

 

[WildHorse]

No chance in hell I'd use gloc on the street. They are noisy AF. That nails across a chalkboard kinda noise. Even using just the rears is somekind of midevil torture.

Ask me how I know.

I took those pads out right quick.

 

[K4fxd]

They are noisy AF

But, race car. Yea they like some heat in 'em

 

[WildHorse]

But, race car. Yea they like some heat in 'em

Throw all the heat at it that you want. Still noisy AF.

Again, ask me how I know.

 

[K4fxd]

Again, ask me how I know.

I track with G-locs, Driving to the track gets attention for blocks around.

 

[shogun32]

at the risk of re-igniting @Optimum Performance smoldering hatred of all things EBC, has anyone done laps with Yellow-stuff (snot?) just on the rears? Or will they crumble and fall apart?

It's interesting how EBC gets roasted by car guys, but their bike pads are pretty decent. You can't pay me to run SBS pads (Stop, B*tch! please you filthy wh*re, STOP!!). I've had good results with DP and Ferodo.

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