Brake Pad advice for street/track compromise? Non-PP

[cth777]

Morning folks,

I’ve recently gotten into a bit of tracking my non-PP 2021 GT. So far just have done a few laps at VIR and a trackcross at summit point.

i am tracking that I need to get some higher temp pads and fluids before a HPDE track day. Any advice on good pads for this plus daily driving? I know it’s a compromise.

so far I’m looking at EBC Bluestuff or Dynamic Friction Active Perf - low metallic. The DF ones are far cheaper.

I would greatly appreciate any experience or anecdotes on this subject. Thanks!

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[cth777]

Other option, power stop Z26 or track pads

 

[K4fxd]

Stay away from the Z26, they are strictly street and designed not to dust.

you have the 4 pot calipers? Do you have the correct rotors that vent from the rear?

Any way I'd use G-LOK R12 front and R10 rear. If you are fast you might need to go to R14 front.

For auto cross the stock pads should work If you over heat them then I'd go R10 front and R8 rear.

 

[cth777]

Stay away from the Z26, they are strictly street and designed not to dust.

you have the 4 pot calipers? Do you have the correct rotors that vent from the rear?

Any way I'd use G-LOK R12 front and R10 rear. If you are fast you might need to go to R14 front.

For auto cross the stock pads should work If you over heat them then I'd go R10 front and R8 rear.

Ok thanks. I’ve got the 4 piston fronts. I have whatever rotors are stock from the factory - I am new to this whole light track use thing. Do I need to change rotors?

 

[K4fxd]

Ok thanks. I’ve got the 4 piston fronts. I have whatever rotors are stock from the factory - I am new to this whole light track use thing. Do I need to change rotors?

Ford redesigned the rotors sometime after 2020. Look at your rotors. If you can see cooling vanes around the center with the wheel on the car you have the bad design. If the rotor is solid, no vanes showing you have the good design.

 

[shogun32]

Ford found a clue in March 2021 and switched the front rotors to back-side (correct) venting. Can you see the vanes if you look at your wheel hub from the street? If so, you have the wrong rotors. You need the newer part number.

There's not a lot of pad selection for the 4-pots. Most people who visit the track upgrade to the real deal 6-pot calipers.

I think Steeda et. al. have a Hawk pads. You probably want HPS-50 or 60 up front and the HPS-30 in the rear. I don't thin Ferodo makes a HPDE pad for your fronts.

example listing:
https://www.hawkperformance.com/par...9892&submodel=76331&note=&search_type=vehicle

 

[cth777]

Ford redesigned the rotors sometime after 2020. Look at your rotors. If you can see cooling vanes around the center with the wheel on the car you have the bad design. If the rotor is solid, no vanes showing you have the good design.

Ah ok gotcha, I have a 2021 and I don’t recall seeing any cooling vanes. I’ll check when I’m outside next. Thanks

 

[K4fxd]

There's not a lot of pad selection for the 4-pots.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p60..._Mustang_EcoBoost_PP_-_GT_Non_PP_Front.html#/

 

[991GT]

I am just getting back into track days this season and tried the Bluestuff front and rear on my PP2. They performed just fine and I didn't have any issues with fade. However, after 3 days they were approx 50% used on the front and 70% used on the rears. I think I did 2 autoX events on them as well.
Having said that they may be fine for a novice to get a season out of them.
They are also okay for street use which makes it convenient.
I just put on some G Loc R16s Front and R12s for the rear.

 

[cth777]

I am just getting back into track days this season and tried the Bluestuff front and rear on my PP2. They performed just fine and I didn't have any issues with fade. However, after 3 days they were approx 50% used on the front and 70% used on the rears. I think I did 2 autoX events on them as well.
Having said that they may be fine for a novice to get a season out of them.
They are also okay for street use which makes it convenient.
I just put on some G Loc R16s Front and R12s for the rear.

Yeah being able to street them is key for me. I daily this car and I only would do a couple full on track day, non autocross days a year I’m guessing

 

[K4fxd]

You can street the G-LOC R10 F and R8 R but they are noisy unless you get some temp into them.

It's best to have a set for track and a set for street.

 

[shogun32]

https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/usa/FORD/Mustang (6th Gen)/
Looks like a couple race pads too.

 

[MiamiGT350]

Since most people seem to love the Z26s for street, anyone have any experiences with the Powerstop Track Day pads? https://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-track-day-brake-pads/

I noticed the Powerstops for a GT350 have a model number starting with "PST." PST pads are temp range of ~900 degrees vs PSA at 1200? So i would think they wouldn't hold up very well?

I've heard they are just "fair" and Hawk's and G-Locs are better... but I was curious for some opinions.

 

[S550HPP]

I would suggest practice smooth style and correct deep braking points and weight transitions to advanced level before smashing brakes so hard they overheat.

GT is a heavy car so in addition to brake pads, you will burn through rotors and tires fast, especially without a track alignment, plus brake fluid will need to be changed if pushing that hard.

You should be ok for a couple sessions unless you are intermediate to advanced driver...Mustang brakes are pretty good.

It's better to buy some stock Ecoboost 18" wheels and tires cheap and have a blast practicing and sliding around to get a feel for the car.

 

[NightmareMoon]

You’re going to burn through track pads, so getting a dedicated set of pads for the street and another set for the track is only an additional up front cost. In the long run you come out way ahead on cost.

Add to that the fact you really shouldnt run the track pads much below about 50% pad thickness, thats another reason to save the track pads for the track.

Then there is the extreme dust and sometimes spine shivering noise when you run them on the street.

So GLOC R12 front and R10 rear will take the heat on the track. For a new driver you might be able to get by with less. Then GLOC GS1 for a compatable street pad which wont require you to resurface the rotors when uou swap pads.

If you absolutely wont run dedicated street and dedicated track pads, then run the track pads on the street and be proud knowing you’re the kind of hardcore sports car driver who doesnt mind perpetually dusty brown wheels and screeching brakes because track car. (You can buy the street pads later but don’t skimp on brakes with a 3800lb muscle car or really any safety thing when tracking at high speed)

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