Brake Light Switch (near pedal) Failure

[FlaGrey]

So finally got the car back, Good news!!!!. This part fits!!

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[Levinz11]

Registered here just for this thread. My 14' Fusion has the same broken brake switch pad. I can't for the life of me get a zip tie in that position like you guys. I even pulled my gauge cluster to try to get more space (didn't work).

Any tips?

Maybe are cars are a bit different in the under dash space situation.

 

[WhippledWhip]

I had the same problem and found the part that fits for $1.51 (see picture with part number) at Advance Auto Parts. It was a real pain in the neck (literally) to get this little sucker installed. Couple of tips: 1. Do it while the car is running. When the car is off, a couple pushes of the brake pedal builds up pressure in the pedal and then you can't get the pedal to depress enough to make enough separation to get the rubber barb into the hole in the bracket. 2. It is almost impossible to install this using your fingers because of the angle of the bracket and the small space to work in. I doubled over some tape and attached the flat surface of the rubber part to the flat surface of a wood chisel with the tape. I inserted the tip of chisel with the small rubber part attached with the tape into the narrow space and used the chisel to push the barb into the small hole in the bracket. I wish I thought of these little tricks before fighting it for 10 minutes and working myself into a nasty sweat.

 

[Levinz11]

I had the same problem and found the part that fits for $1.51 (see picture with part number) at Advance Auto Parts. It was a real pain in the neck (literally) to get this little sucker installed. Couple of tips: 1. Do it while the car is running. When the car is off, a couple pushes of the brake pedal builds up pressure in the pedal and then you can't get the pedal to depress enough to make enough separation to get the rubber barb into the hole in the bracket. 2. It is almost impossible to install this using your fingers because of the angle of the bracket and the small space to work in. I doubled over some tape and attached the flat surface of the rubber part to the flat surface of a wood chisel with the tape. I inserted the tip of chisel with the small rubber part attached with the tape into the narrow space and used the chisel to push the barb into the small hole in the bracket. I wish I thought of these little tricks before fighting it for 10 minutes and working myself into a nasty sweat.

Whipple appreciate the tips.

I ran out of time and had to get the car back on the road. I was successful in getting a zip tie through the hole but could not get it positioned correctly to interact with the brake switch.

Looking at the brake assembly photos; the Mustang steering column is several inches away from the brake assembly. On the Fusion the column runs directly through the bracket and over the problem area. This was my downfall, couldn barely get a finger in there. I thought I'll just remove the steering column for more access. Not such a small job for me. Immobilizing the wheel and messing with clockspring was more that I cared to do. None of the bolts can be re-used either.

In the end, I took it in. They were sympathetic but said they could not replace only the plug, had to buy the whole assembly. They said they would remove bracket and replace if I provided the plug but I didn't know where to look until right now. Damn!

Anyway, I'm flushing $500 down the tube for new brake assembly $233 and labor. Life

 

[Pmb61]

This is a crap design and only worse that Ford doesn't sell.the part! My wife's car is at the dealer now and same as above, they claim they need to replace the whole assembly for almost $900. Really sorry now that l.just spent almost $50,000 on a new Ford Explorer! Had not owned a Ford since 1979 and l should have kept my record that way. Unbelievable that the Toyota part that fits is less than $2 and Ford claims it is almost $1000 to fix! Then is they do is it the same brittle plastic that is going to crumble in a few years?

 

[Cobra Jet]

I’d like to know why this is not an NHTSA issue???

I mean from what others have said above, if that part fails while in transit at speed it appears to have some type of adverse effect on the vehicle function which could result in an accident.

$500-$900+ to repair for a $2 part, wth!

 

[Pmb61]

Yes, they told me they had to replace the whole assembly because they dont just have that little $2 piece of plastic. Price quoted was $8??. With tax it would be over $900 closer to $1000! They have had the car for two weeks this coming Thursday. Numerous complaints to Ford, and they basically say tuff luck we are not doing anything. The local dealer said they will do the work and split the cost so $450 plus tax. Still unacceptable for what could be a fatal defect. I told my wife l should just drive it the way it is and when it gets rear ended, sue the hell out of Ford!

 

[GT Pony]

Yes, they told me they had to replace the whole assembly because they dont just have that little $2 piece of plastic. Price quoted was $8??. With tax it would be over $900 closer to $1000! They have had the car for two weeks this coming Thursday. Numerous complaints to Ford, and they basically say tuff luck we are not doing anything. The local dealer said they will do the work and split the cost so $450 plus tax. Still unacceptable for what could be a fatal defect. I told my wife l should just drive it the way it is and when it gets rear ended, sue the hell out of Ford!

Just buy the $2 part from Advanced Auto as shown in Post #18 (or other source, maybe even Toyota, p/n 90541-06036 as shown in Post #12) and replace it yourself. Screw Ford and their shenanigans.

https://www.amazon.com/Partsmart-Corporation-Clutch-Cushion-Corolla/dp/B07FC3QPFP
Maybe Dorman also has a replacement part.

 

[GT Pony]

I had the same problem and found the part that fits for $1.51 (see picture with part number) at Advance Auto Parts. It was a real pain in the neck (literally) to get this little sucker installed. Couple of tips: 1. Do it while the car is running. When the car is off, a couple pushes of the brake pedal builds up pressure in the pedal and then you can't get the pedal to depress enough to make enough separation to get the rubber barb into the hole in the bracket. 2. It is almost impossible to install this using your fingers because of the angle of the bracket and the small space to work in. I doubled over some tape and attached the flat surface of the rubber part to the flat surface of a wood chisel with the tape. I inserted the tip of chisel with the small rubber part attached with the tape into the narrow space and used the chisel to push the barb into the small hole in the bracket. I wish I thought of these little tricks before fighting it for 10 minutes and working myself into a nasty sweat.

I just called my local Advanced Auto, gave them the Advanced Auto part number (N3121440809OES) and they said "We can order one in for you" ... I said yes, please do. For $1.51 it's worth having as a spare ready to go in case the original brake pedal stop pad breaks, which sounds pretty likely.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Hmmm... just saw this thread, I wonder if what he was experiencing was due to that above part failing?.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-light-switch-failure.112936/

 

[Pmb61]

Just buy the $2 part from Advanced Auto as shown in Post #18 (or other source, maybe even Toyota, p/n 90541-06036 as shown in Post #12) and replace it yourself. Screw Ford and their shenanigans.

https://www.amazon.com/Partsmart-Corporation-Clutch-Cushion-Corolla/dp/B07FC3QPFP
Maybe Dorman also has a replacement part.

Would if l could but had surgery last year to replace discs and still not fully healed. I know in the past when l replaced brake switches , l had to be a contortionist to get it done. Can't risk another surgery to my neck .
But may just take it to a shop with the part and have them install it.

 

[GT Pony]

Would if l could but had surgery last year to replace discs and still not fully healed. I know in the past when l replaced brake switches , l had to be a contortionist to get it done. Can't risk another surgery to my neck .
But may just take it to a shop with the part and have them install it.

If you have an Advanced Auto near you, have them order the $1.51 part discussed above in post #24 since we know it works. Then find a friend or a shop that can install it, definately don't risk hurting yourself. Hope you heal up well.

 

[GT Pony]

I would log an NHTSA complaint about that too.

If the brake pedal switch is tied into other systems besides the brake light function, that is definitely a safety concern when it fails as the OP and other member has noted, (especially if the driver is out on the highway).

I think what's happening is the ECU is programmed to cut throttle if it senses the brakes are applied, which it must think is happening when the brake lights are on. It stems back to the "runaway throttle" stuff that went on years ago with Toyotas. Car manufacturers are programming the ECU to cut the throttle when the brakes are applied in case the accelerator gets stuck for some reason (floor mat incidents like happened years ago) so that if the driver hits the brakes the engine power is cut way back so the brakes can take over and stop the vehicle.

So theoretically, you could test this out by gently applying the brakes (to trip the brake lights on) and trying to accelerate full throttle. If the engine power it cut way back, then the ECU it cutting throttle so the brakes become dominate.

 

[GT Pony]

Guys, so I picked up the brake pedal stop pad that Advanced Auto sells and apparently works on the S550 Mustang (see Post #18). I took a photo of Advance Auto's computer screen that shows all the vehicles this part fits, so if someone has to try and source one someplace else you have about 50+ vehicles to reference when searching for this part since Ford doesn't sell it. Click on the photo to see in full size.

 

[cocamo85]

What's up guys. First all I just wanted to say thank you for posting this information up. I was staring down the barrel of a potentially costly repair and avoided it thanks to the info here. I have, however, figured out a cheaper and easier solution than the zip-tie and stop-pad replacement. The zip-tie method was great but it pushed the plunger in too far and force me to apply the brakes harder than necessary to activate the brake light. Replacing the stop-pad would be the way to get it back to OEM standards but the parts have to be ordered and its a b^%&# to install. So what I did was go to home depot and buy a pack of Neodymium Disc Magnets (.472 in. diameter x .118 in. thick) and placed it on the contact side of the bracket that the original stop-pad was mounted to. Literally installs in a few seconds and brings the brake light activation back to oem standards. Hope this helps for anyone in the future.

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