Brake fluid for track on base mustang 4 pot brakes

[Caballito]

I've used stock rotors and both the Track day pads and G-loc R12's. Was able to fade the track day pads as I got faster; hence the R12's. Just curious, how many track events do you have under your belt and what tracks?

so you mean the track day pads from powerstop? Also did you use their rotors? i have about 5 track days so not very experienced am sure the powerstop rotors and pads should
Ok for now

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[o-man]

so you mean the track day pads from powerstop? Also did you use their rotors? i have about 5 track days so not very experienced am sure the powerstop rotors and pads should
Ok for now

Yes, track day pads. Just using OEM style rotors. If you have about 5 track days, you should be fine using the Power Stop pads/rotors. I didn't have any issues with pad residue sticking to wheels, but several other members have.

 

[Caballito]

Yes, track day pads. Just using OEM style rotors. If you have about 5 track days, you should be fine using the Power Stop pads/rotors. I didn't have any issues with pad residue sticking to wheels, but several other members have.

Brake fluid recommendation from ur experience?

 

[AlbertD]

Another vote for SRF. I flush annually with 1-2L and leave it in untouched (no bleeding between events). I typically manage 13-16 hours of track time during that time period. Pedal feel remains consistent given that pads/rotors are maintained properly. The high wet boiling point enables it to last much longer than other alternatives.

The other options work great as well (and are cheaper), but you have to stay on top of bleeding between events to maintain the dry boiling point.

I'd rather pay more up front to minimize spending time in the garage before/after every event, but that is just me.

 

[Flyhalf]

So..
All above is correct
srf top.
Motul660 great
Motul 600 good
Motul 600 is more than enough for a beginner.
However
MAIN ISSUE FOR THOSE 4 PISTONS are the reverse rotors. They get very. Very hot. (They try to take air from outside the wheel instead of inside)
So pay attention.
If your are fast you start to suffer.
If track is somenthing you like consider at least to change to better rotors geometry.
Or upgrade to the perf pack brakes

Have fun!

 

[Caballito]

So..
All above is correct
srf top.
Motul660 great
Motul 600 good
Motul 600 is more than enough for a beginner.
However
MAIN ISSUE FOR THOSE 4 PISTONS are the reverse rotors. They get very. Very hot. (They try to take air from outside the wheel instead of inside)
So pay attention.
If your are fast you start to suffer.
If track is somenthing you like consider at least to change to better rotors geometry.
Or upgrade to the perf pack brakes

Have fun!

Thanx for the info, how many 500ml cans do i need to flush the system?

 

[Flyhalf]

Thanx for the info, how many 500ml cans do i need to flush the system?

3x 500ml

 

[Caballito]

3x 500ml

Oh dang ok, am i gonna have some
Left?

 

[fatbillybob]

brakes are all about managing heat. needing the best fluid like SRF means the brake system is marginal for the task. So the solution is bigger calipers, bigger rotors, more air cooling. What and how much depends. That's why others posted on experience level because a faster guy will heat the system more and faster and sooner reaching or exceeding capacity.

As I try and figure out and develop my 2019 GT racecar brakes are so far a problem. The next to highest carbotech pad on 2 piece rotors wasn't enough. Some say the undertray scoops move more air than 3" ducts. I took that to the next level and removed the protective plate so air can be diverted right to the center of the rotor. I will see if that works in my race this weekend. It is really simple to do if you have the know how to replace your rotor the backing plate comes off with like 3 10mm bolts once the rotor is off. The wheel speed sensor is sort of unprotected but I can always bend a piece of aluminum and just protect that if needed.

 

[Flyhalf]

brakes are all about managing heat. needing the best fluid like SRF means the brake system is marginal for the task. So the solution is bigger calipers, bigger rotors, more air cooling. What and how much depends. That's why others posted on experience level because a faster guy will heat the system more and faster and sooner reaching or exceeding capacity.

As I try and figure out and develop my 2019 GT racecar brakes are so far a problem. The next to highest carbotech pad on 2 piece rotors wasn't enough. Some say the undertray scoops move more air than 3" ducts. I took that to the next level and removed the protective plate so air can be diverted right to the center of the rotor. I will see if that works in my race this weekend. It is really simple to do if you have the know how to replace your rotor the backing plate comes off with like 3 10mm bolts once the rotor is off. The wheel speed sensor is sort of unprotected but I can always bend a piece of aluminum and just protect that if needed.

Are you going to Willow Springs?

 

[Flyhalf]

Oh dang ok, am i gonna have some
Left?

yes...let's say 2 could be enough..if you are really good

 

[fatbillybob]

Nope BRP with SCCA. Still running car stock with rollcage at 3700lb fuel light on. I got bunch of parts to put on like vertical links, diff bushings, mcs double adjustable coils coming too. I rigged mister to trans cooler for now. I need to figure out how to splice into the trans cooler line to add another cooler or replace the stock cooler with bigger one.

I need to figure out stuff like what fittings I can adapt and which stock line is the return line from stock cooler.

I have not found a plug and play kit and the mish oil cooler is in front of trans cooler so that kit is no good unless lines long enough or delete stock trans cooler

 

[fatbillybob]

But...the car is looking good

 

[Flyhalf]

Nope BRP with SCCA. Still running car stock with rollcage at 3700lb fuel light on. I got bunch of parts to put on like vertical links, diff bushings, mcs double adjustable coils coming too. I rigged mister to trans cooler for now. I need to figure out how to splice into the trans cooler line to add another cooler or replace the stock cooler with bigger one.

I need to figure out stuff like what fittings I can adapt and which stock line is the return line from stock cooler.

I have not found a plug and play kit and the mish oil cooler is in front of trans cooler so that kit is no good unless lines long enough or delete stock trans cooler

I've already did all of this on my 18 feel free to contact me in PM

 

[Flyhalf]

Nope BRP with SCCA. Still running car stock with rollcage at 3700lb fuel light on. I got bunch of parts to put on like vertical links, diff bushings, mcs double adjustable coils coming too. I rigged mister to trans cooler for now. I need to figure out how to splice into the trans cooler line to add another cooler or replace the stock cooler with bigger one.

I need to figure out stuff like what fittings I can adapt and which stock line is the return line from stock cooler.

I have not found a plug and play kit and the mish oil cooler is in front of trans cooler so that kit is no good unless lines long enough or delete stock trans cooler

PS..i'm local to

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