Both Rear Wheel Bearings Failure

[moffetts]

What part number is the gt350 rear bearing? I didn’t think they were different.

Sponsored

 

[Waldo Jeffers]

Both 2017 MY:
GT 350: FR3Z-1104-E pricing about 455 US $ each
GT : FR3Z-1104-G pricing about 115 US $ each
just counter checked numbers and pricing at levittownfordparts.com
(however, the timken part HA590577 that comes from Ford as stock part is sold for under 39 US$ at some US Webshops)

And YES the bearings ARE different.
GT: double ball bearing, closed and sealed unit with hub and studs
GT 350: double conical roller bearing, closed and sealed with hub and studs

 

[moffetts]

I’m not sure they even fit but I’m interested in digging into this topic more. Timken lists the same part number for the GT and GT350 (but this may be wrong) however I see separate listings on Rock Auto for the GT350R OEM bearings vs the GT350 ones. The 350R bearings are the $400 ones. If the 350R uses a different knuckle assembly, that may explain the different hub part. If the knuckles are the same, the 350R bearings may fit the GT and 350. There’s a lot of maybes here, but it’s worth looking at.

 

[Waldo Jeffers]

I looked it up on the levittownfordparts site with selecting "GT350" and NOT "GT350R"
Also with "GT premium"
Both MY 2017

Rockauto lists the measuring details for the GT350/GT350R wheel bearings = MOOG 512588 but unfortunately they don't list the measuring details for the GT / GT Premium wheel bearings = TIMKEN HA590577.

Maybe I will order a pair of Timken bearings and then counter check the measurements with the details from the MOOG 512588 product sheet.

By the way: Quite interesting that rockauto has a warranty of 1 year for the timken HA590577 part and 3 years for the MOOG 512588 part made for the GT350/GT350R. I now know why.

 

[moffetts]

It really looks like the R has unique hubs. I’m mobile right now so it’s hard to be sure. Check this: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gt305r-wheel-studs.86042/#post-1918806

 

[Waldo Jeffers]

Thanks for your help !
But the Moog 512588 part = Ford FR3Z-1104-E is listed also for the normal GT 350. Without "R".
At Ford.com and at levittownfordparts.com.

I'll have it checked out, when parts have arrived.

 

[moffetts]

Yeah, let us know. I’m a little hesitant to plunk down 800 bucks on two hubs but I’m really, really tired of fussing with the ones I have. Hopefully they fit, at least!

 

[moffetts]

I'm still kind of dwelling on this topic... FR3Z-1104-E, at least according to Lakeland, fits all GT350Rs but only the 2019 GT350. If you pick a different year GT350, it reports that the correct part is FR3Z-1104-G, which fits everything (GT, ecoboost, etc) except the GT350R. The knuckle for the GT is FR3Z-5B759-B, which allegedly fits the GTs and the 2015-2018 GT350s and 350Rs. The questionable part is FR3Z-5B759-E (replaced with G); this part is listed as fitting the 2015-2019 GT350 and GT350Rs. I don't understand how the E and G parts fit the 350/Rs specifically but the B part fits the GTs AND the GT350/Rs. Maybe this is a magneride vs non magneride distinction. If the knuckles are cross compatible between the 350R (or 2019 350) and the GT, theoretically the hub should bolt right up. It looks like the 350R/2019 350 hubs come with long studs, though, and those would be too long for most GT applications. The presence of the long (ARP?) studs at least partially explains the higher price.

 

[Intrepid175]

Also forgot to ask - Did you change gear ratios? If so, what was the effect on performance?

I did change ratios but I didn't go the way most folks would think. I bought the car used from Carmax because it had all the options packages I wanted. Up to that point, I hadn't seen one configured this way and believe me, I've looked. Anyway, I found a web site that I could order a copy of the original window sticker from and I discovered the car also had the optional 3:55 final drive gears. That was the one option I would not have gone for left to my own devices so after a while, I started looking at options to return the car to the factory stock 3:31 gears.. I looked into buying the ring gear and pinion with bearings and shim sets and having someone do the gear swap but that would be pushing $600 to $800 at least. Then I found a factory differential assembly with the 3:31 gears that came off a 2017 GT. on Ebay. They said it came off a car that was being modded for track competition and only had about 1k miles on it. They wanted $430 for it with free shipping so I took a chance. I've been very pleased with the results. The difference in performance is exactly as you'd expect. It doesn't lay me back in the seat under full throttle acceleration like it did before but it's still no slouch. I didn't buy the car with any intent of racing but rather making road trips at every opportunity and I prefer the more laid back rpms while cruising. On the plus side, it gained 7 to 8 mph on the top end of each gear. Whether it's actually quicker or not, it feels like you get a little more out of each gear and I don't mind that either.

I've still got the original 3:55 rear end and wouldn't mind selling it, but I definitely need to talk to anyone who might be interested.

 

[sculptor310]

I just had to replace my passenger side rear bearing, after installing it my ABS & Traction control lights came on. Oddly, after a few days of light driving, my engine started revving a lot louder than before.

Visually everything looks fine on the bearing install. Anyone else have something odd like this happen?

 

[offroadkarter]

Both 2017 MY:
GT 350: FR3Z-1104-E pricing about 455 US $ each
GT : FR3Z-1104-G pricing about 115 US $ each
just counter checked numbers and pricing at levittownfordparts.com
(however, the timken part HA590577 that comes from Ford as stock part is sold for under 39 US$ at some US Webshops)

And YES the bearings ARE different.
GT: double ball bearing, closed and sealed unit with hub and studs
GT 350: double conical roller bearing, closed and sealed with hub and studs

It really looks like the R has unique hubs. I’m mobile right now so it’s hard to be sure. Check this: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gt305r-wheel-studs.86042/#post-1918806

Since my drivers side rear wheel bearing just ate it in the past few weeks, I was looking into this hoping it was true that the GT350/350R had a more robust rear bearing to handle the track conditions those cars were made for.

It looks like the only difference between the 350R hub and all other hubs is the wheel stud length, thats it. I was also shocked to see the Ford GT uses mustang wheel hubs, wonder how many FGT owners who actually drive their cars will be going through hub replacements.

if anyone has proof of a stronger rear wheel hub I am all ears, but I think for now we're stuck with a crap design and I'll be getting 2 more OE hubs to swap this winter.

 

[moffetts]

@Waldo Jeffers Did the new hubs arrive?

 

[CrowdControl_5.0]

Just had my 2017 GT PP in for regular service and they told me my RR wheel bearing needed to be replaced. My car only has 16k on it and I've never raced it or even done a burnout. It's on stock suspension with a Steeda subframe brace. I was surprised to hear this is such a common issue.

 

[NoVaGT]

I just had to replace my passenger side rear bearing, after installing it my ABS & Traction control lights came on. Oddly, after a few days of light driving, my engine started revving a lot louder than before.

Visually everything looks fine on the bearing install. Anyone else have something odd like this happen?

Something is wrong with the ABS/Wheel Speed sensor you removed to do the hub change. Possibly it's not plugged in, or not installed properly.

 

[Wylie C]

Relatively common. I suspect because of improper torque on the axle nut. Before I started tracking my car regularly, I checked the torque on mine (car should be cold, metal shouldn't be hot) and both sides were far off from spec.

what is the correct torque?

Sponsored