Boosted 350's come on in!

[lightrules]

Can you "get away with it?" Yes. Is it smart? No. Why in the hell would you go cheap on your fuel system on a car like this? Makes no damn sense what-so-ever.

dont shoot the messenger. but earlier you wrote "Anything forced induction running on stock pumps and a BAP is just asking for trouble, especially if something goes out under load." procharger, whipple, vortech, hellion, all their "kits" do not suggest ID1300s or full return fuel system. for eg, procharger's complete kit for the gt350, part #314, comes with DW 95lb hr injectors, ngauge, on 91 tune and NO dual bap even. you can even opt for their 9lb pulley on this canned tune. it's a popular sell for them. whipple has their tune and it doesnt require 1300 injectors or full return fuel.

just sayin. this is what all these companies are selling. and also palm beach dyno has no issue doing this kind of tune without the equipment you listed. might it be better with what you say? sure, probably. but seems like it's not necessary is all i am saying.

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[olaosunt]

dont shoot the messenger. but earlier you wrote "Anything forced induction running on stock pumps and a BAP is just asking for trouble, especially if something goes out under load." procharger, whipple, vortech, hellion, all their "kits" do not suggest ID1300s or full return fuel system. for eg, procharger's complete kit for the gt350, part #314, comes with DW 95lb hr injectors, ngauge, on 91 tune and NO dual bap even. you can even opt for their 9lb pulley on this canned tune. it's a popular sell for them. whipple has their tune and it doesnt require 1300 injectors or full return fuel.

just sayin. this is what all these companies are selling. and also palm beach dyno has no issue doing this kind of tune without the equipment you listed. might it be better with what you say? sure, probably. but seems like it's not necessary is all i am saying.

True .
He may have meant with E85 since the car in reference made that power on E85 .
With 93 or race gas you will be fine . Obviously with 93 you will be limited on how much boost .
I ran the whipple tune with the stock fuel system with both 93 and race gas
Any lower than the 3.625 pulley will likely need race gas .
It’s a different animal now with E85 and a Lund tune . I have the Lethal triple pump return fuel system and ID1300 which is what Lund recommends .
You may be able to get away with 1000 cc injectors with limited boost but you know how that works ... you will end up eventually with the ID1300’s
Most who do a BAP will also invariably end up with return system ... might as well save some money and the headaches selling your BAP .
I asked about tuning with a BAP and stock fuel system and they advised against it even upgrading the pumps to DW400 .
Rob shoemaker was willing to do the tuning with ID1000cc /BAP and upgraded pumps on the returnless fuel system but I ultimately stock with Lund as I already had their flex tune stock and have been happy with their tuning on 2 other cars .

 

[526 HRSE]

More pics to see how they mount

Your speedometer shows ground speed. How fast does your car go in the air?

 

[526 HRSE]

Does anyone on here own this car? Says it has a Whipple. G4236

 

[CobraCommander]

dont shoot the messenger. but earlier you wrote "Anything forced induction running on stock pumps and a BAP is just asking for trouble, especially if something goes out under load." procharger, whipple, vortech, hellion, all their "kits" do not suggest ID1300s or full return fuel system. for eg, procharger's complete kit for the gt350, part #314, comes with DW 95lb hr injectors, ngauge, on 91 tune and NO dual bap even. you can even opt for their 9lb pulley on this canned tune. it's a popular sell for them. whipple has their tune and it doesnt require 1300 injectors or full return fuel.

just sayin. this is what all these companies are selling. and also palm beach dyno has no issue doing this kind of tune without the equipment you listed. might it be better with what you say? sure, probably. but seems like it's not necessary is all i am saying.

They provide a "bare-bones" kit because they know most Mustang guys are cheap-asses. If low 700rwhp on 93-octane is your thing and you're never, ever going to turn the thing up, have at it I guess, LOL.

The tunes that come from those manufacturers are junk and are made to be stupid safe so the vast majority of the dumb-ass Mustang guys who buy the kits don't blow their shit up when they go put chocolate milk in for their gas.

Lund definitely won't tune a forced-induction setup with a BAP because they know it's stupid to do so. Relying on a BAP is just asking for trouble. Just because someone is willing to tune something with a BAP doesn't mean it's safe or reliable. It just means they are willing to take your money and don't give a shit what you do once it's tuned and they are done with you.

If you're looking to get into the forced induction game for "cheap" then you need to re-evaluate what you are doing. It's not cheap if it's done right. If it's done right, you can make as much power as the stock rods/pistons can possibly handle, but you'll never have to worry about not having enough fuel or hoping a BAP doesn't go out on you under load and then you literally splatter your motor all over whatever road you're on.

Go look at the FatHouse Fabrication systems. Do they use a BAP? Nope.

None of those companies kits are making anywhere near the power those cars do pound for pound of boost, especially if you start putting legit E85 in the tank.

 

[ReapSow]

They provide a "bare-bones" kit because they know most Mustang guys are cheap-asses. If low 700rwhp on 93-octane is your thing and you're never, ever going to turn the thing up, have at it I guess, LOL.

The tunes that come from those manufacturers are junk and are made to be stupid safe so the vast majority of the dumb-ass Mustang guys who buy the kits don't blow their shit up when they go put chocolate milk in for their gas.

Lund definitely won't tune a forced-induction setup with a BAP because they know it's stupid to do so. Relying on a BAP is just asking for trouble. Just because someone is willing to tune something with a BAP doesn't mean it's safe or reliable. It just means they are willing to take your money and don't give a shit what you do once it's tuned and they are done with you.

If you're looking to get into the forced induction game for "cheap" then you need to re-evaluate what you are doing. It's not cheap if it's done right. If it's done right, you can make as much power as the stock rods/pistons can possibly handle, but you'll never have to worry about not having enough fuel or hoping a BAP doesn't go out on you under load and then you literally splatter your motor all over whatever road you're on.

Go look at the FatHouse Fabrication systems. Do they use a BAP? Nope.

None of those companies kits are making anywhere near the power those cars do pound for pound of boost, especially if you start putting legit E85 in the tank.

Lund tuned my car on a BAP and 1050s, on e85 and it wasn't a P on 6 lbs either (It was a D1x on 11). While I agree with most of your opinion, facts are facts.

 

[MandoGt350R]

They provide a "bare-bones" kit because they know most Mustang guys are cheap-asses. If low 700rwhp on 93-octane is your thing and you're never, ever going to turn the thing up, have at it I guess, LOL.

The tunes that come from those manufacturers are junk and are made to be stupid safe so the vast majority of the dumb-ass Mustang guys who buy the kits don't blow their shit up when they go put chocolate milk in for their gas.

Lund definitely won't tune a forced-induction setup with a BAP because they know it's stupid to do so. Relying on a BAP is just asking for trouble. Just because someone is willing to tune something with a BAP doesn't mean it's safe or reliable. It just means they are willing to take your money and don't give a shit what you do once it's tuned and they are done with you.

If you're looking to get into the forced induction game for "cheap" then you need to re-evaluate what you are doing. It's not cheap if it's done right. If it's done right, you can make as much power as the stock rods/pistons can possibly handle, but you'll never have to worry about not having enough fuel or hoping a BAP doesn't go out on you under load and then you literally splatter your motor all over whatever road you're on.

Go look at the FatHouse Fabrication systems. Do they use a BAP? Nope.

None of those companies kits are making anywhere near the power those cars do pound for pound of boost, especially if you start putting legit E85 in the tank.

I agree.

 

[Manny231988]

They provide a "bare-bones" kit because they know most Mustang guys are cheap-asses. If low 700rwhp on 93-octane is your thing and you're never, ever going to turn the thing up, have at it I guess, LOL.

The tunes that come from those manufacturers are junk and are made to be stupid safe so the vast majority of the dumb-ass Mustang guys who buy the kits don't blow their shit up when they go put chocolate milk in for their gas.

Lund definitely won't tune a forced-induction setup with a BAP because they know it's stupid to do so. Relying on a BAP is just asking for trouble. Just because someone is willing to tune something with a BAP doesn't mean it's safe or reliable. It just means they are willing to take your money and don't give a shit what you do once it's tuned and they are done with you.

If you're looking to get into the forced induction game for "cheap" then you need to re-evaluate what you are doing. It's not cheap if it's done right. If it's done right, you can make as much power as the stock rods/pistons can possibly handle, but you'll never have to worry about not having enough fuel or hoping a BAP doesn't go out on you under load and then you literally splatter your motor all over whatever road you're on.

Go look at the FatHouse Fabrication systems. Do they use a BAP? Nope.

None of those companies kits are making anywhere near the power those cars do pound for pound of boost, especially if you start putting legit E85 in the tank.

Lol chill out dude damm my 2017 hellion tt 5.0 Lund tuned with a boost a pump been running just fine for 2 years and countless trips to the track, my 2013 gt500 fore triple pump with motec m150 and my plug and play harness for my gt350 all being done by Fischer Motorsports and going hellion, you calling mustang owners cheap makes you sound like and ass, if the guy wants to run a boosta pump in his car let him we all big boys we know the risks. you act like pumps in a return style fuel system failure is impossible, shoot even belt driven fuel pumps on methanol builds fail it’s the game we play.

 

[CobraCommander]

Lund tuned my car on a BAP and 1050s, on e85 and it wasn't a P on 6 lbs either (It was a D1x on 11). While I agree with most of your opinion, facts are facts.

Must have been a while ago because they currently state that they will no longer do so.

 

[CobraCommander]

Lol chill out dude damm my 2017 hellion tt 5.0 Lund tuned with a boost a pump been running just fine for 2 years and countless trips to the track, my 2013 gt500 fore triple pump with motec m150 and my plug and play harness for my gt350 all being done by Fischer Motorsports and going hellion, you calling mustang owners cheap makes you sound like and ass, if the guy wants to run a boosta pump in his car let him we all big boys we know the risks. you act like pumps in a return style fuel system failure is impossible, shoot even belt driven fuel pumps on methanol builds fail it’s the game we play.

Go look at the Mustang community as a whole and you will see it's mostly a bunch of cheap-asses always trying to "get by" with as little as possible. It's true. You may not like it and it may not specifically fit you or whatever, but that doesn't make it not true.

Congrats on your setup staying together. I'm not saying it won't, but the fact still remains that running a BAP on a stock returnless system is not even remotely as safe as running a full return-style fuel system with triple pumps. Even if one of the pumps does go out in a return system, you're still going to have plenty of pump remaining in the others because of increased size and more than likely larger injector size as well.

A BAP is a band-aid, plain and simple. It is designed to pump more voltage into a pump than it is designed to see and it overworks that pump. That is putting significant strain on that pump and it will eventually fail and it will fail in a significantly faster time-period than a pump that would come in a Fore system. Again, why would you spend all this money on the car and a forced induction setup and then cheap out on something as important as the fuel system? Just flat-out stupid and proves the cheap-ass mindset is in-fact true.

 

[lightrules]

@CobraCommander , so you are saying a guy that wants to run a base vortech or procharger kit, say 6psi, needs to run id1300s and full return system or they are "cheap-ass"? are you for reals?

 

[CobraCommander]

@CobraCommander , so you are saying a guy that wants to run a base vortech or procharger kit, say 6psi, needs to run id1300s and full return system or they are "cheap-ass"? are you for reals?

What I'm saying that if you're going forced induction, the best route is to do what I'm describing because it gives you headroom and safety. Every single guy who goes forced induction thinks that the base kit/base boost is all they will ever need, LOL.

One of two things then happens:

1. They get used to it and want to turn it up.

2. They get their asses handed to them by someone who actually spent some money on supporting mods i.e. a fuel system, get pissed, and want to turn it up.

They try to turn it up and then blow their shit up.

 

[Manny231988]

@CobraCommander , so you are saying a guy that wants to run a base vortech or procharger kit, say 6psi, needs to run id1300s and full return system or they are "cheap-ass"? are you for reals?[/QUO

Save it man this could go back and forth all night, some people enthusiast don’t have the money to go all In and that it what I was trying to point out, different people have different wants need and what they can afford they all know the risk taken and if the decide to boost their shit And it blows up because the car leaned out than that’s their problem, any pump can fail, my setup on my gt500 that’s north of 1000rwhp can fail, moving parts are gonna fail that’s just how it goes, I just took offenses that he called out all of us cheap asses Haha

 

[madlag]

Lund tuned my car on a BAP and 1050s, on e85 and it wasn't a P on 6 lbs either (It was a D1x on 11). While I agree with most of your opinion, facts are facts.

Must have been a while ago because they currently state that they will no longer do so.

Lund also tuned my car @11psi with duel BAPs on 1050's. Per Lund, they loved the BAP on the GT350's.

I agree with most of what you said concerning their use though. I'm just running mine until I finish my other engine build and will be going with a new fuel system. I've experienced no issues as of yet and its been more than two years tho.

 

[olaosunt]

Finally got a good pull after working out some gremlins on my car and tune revision

It started misfiring on the dyno after first pull with old tune -made about 830.
.
We first tried some colder brisk plugs but still did the same.

Misfire was on drivers side so swapped the coils which fixed the misfire but was then down on power. Plugs may have been too cold so went back to NGK and it did better like it did before first misfire .

I was may be expecting more but that's similar to what my 18 GT/Gen 5 whipple - made on the same dyno/pulley(3.0) so the dyno may just read low.

I am happy with it but may drop down to a 2.85 pulley ...currently on the 18GT which will be getting a 10 rib when I swap in its new motor. Its stock motor is still good and makes 900 whp with that pulley so I would expect the same with the GT350.

Engine is RPG sleeved Gen 1 block/Diamond 12:1 CR pistons /Manley rods. Heads are stock with valves spring upgrade/head studs. Stock headers with cat delete. Fuel is E85/lethal return with triple pumps. Spec SS twin disc clutch with QAI drive shaft. Rear end is stock but thinking of going to a 3.31 for drag racing


Lund did mention he does not think diamond makes a true 12:1 CR pistons and thinks its making torque like it 10:1 CR.

Motor is consuming some oil and may be losing some coolant so I may swap the motor at some point(will have RPG go through it ) for a spare I had built- a stock engine I had upgraded with Manley rods/ valve springs and upgraded phasers . Stock pistons so should be a true 12:1 CR.
it will be interesting to see if that motor will make more power .

So.... now wondering if I should have left the car NA after driving a friends E85 car back to back .
When mine was NA with a flex tune I felt like others it really needed some mid range torque and was hoping I would accomplish that with blower.
While I agree like most , it feels like NA on steroids(sometimes )it’s not quite the same and when it comes in to boost it feels like an ON switch .
it could be in part due to the light wheels (Signature wheels on stock rubber and I have stock wheels with heavy drag radials in the rear )on my buddy’s car but I could definitely tell the weight difference. I think I also miss the linear way the car used to keep pulling NA . I also don’t remember my car with the flex tune being so strong in the midrange.
I doubt I will ever consistently drag race the car (don’t roll race either) so for a street car the e85 car with light weight wheels felt perfect .
My car also has car deletes (with resonator ) and his has high flow cats . Mine was way too raspy but can’t can’t risk cats with the boost .
May be centrifugals may be the better choice for boost .

A little late now for regrets but since I have a coupe of extra motors built I may put the intake back on one in case I ever wanted to go back NA. Lol

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