BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

[TicTocTach]

Probably don’t have to hit the full 203 lb-ft in one go, I bet half that amount would hold while you got things sorted out to work with the big bar. A little paint mark would confirm that things stayed put in the brief interim period.

Alternatively, could you put a small spare tire/wheel on for more working space?

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[bobpies]

Probably don’t have to hit the full 203 lb-ft in one go, I bet half that amount would hold while you got things sorted out to work with the big bar. A little paint mark would confirm that things stayed put in the brief interim period.

Alternatively, could you put a small spare tire/wheel on for more working space?

So place today said couldn’t get at the top bushings with torque wrench. Got the rest of them done

however it didn’t fix the knocking.

the tightened the axle nut bolt which they said was very lose. That solved my creaking issue

took engineer for a ride and he said he thinks the knocking is a shock

 

[dead_inside]

So I’m going to do this over the weekend but I’m hoping someone can share some guidance with me. There is a torque value missing in the top pic on the left side for the front. Does someone know what spec that should be? Also the top pic calls for a torque value of 203ft/lb but that doesn’t appear on the bottom pic. Are there actually 8 points in the rear that need to be clocked? I’m renting a drive on lift and am hoping this is a straight forward thing to be able to do. TYIA to anyone who can share some knowledge.

 

[Voo Doo]

Make sure you also have a full tank of gas!!

 

[Brian@BMVK]

So I’m going to do this over the weekend but I’m hoping someone can share some guidance with me. There is a torque value missing in the top pic on the left side for the front. Does someone know what spec that should be? Also the top pic calls for a torque value of 203ft/lb but that doesn’t appear on the bottom pic. Are there actually 8 points in the rear that need to be clocked? I’m renting a drive on lift and am hoping this is a straight forward thing to be able to do. TYIA to anyone who can share some knowledge.

Left and right are the same for the front. Both values are there. If you have a Perf Pack car, you only need to to the forward link (the red one) on the front. The lateral link is a bearing and doesn't need to be clocked.

On the rear, the key ones to get are the LCA bushing (166 ft-lb), toe link outer (129 ft-lb) and lower vertical link (129 ft-lb). The camber link inner is tough to do without altering alignment, although you'd be best getting one after clocking anyway. The rest of the points are bearings or non-indexing points.

 

[dead_inside]

Left and right are the same for the front. Both values are there. If you have a Perf Pack car, you only need to to the forward link (the red one) on the front. The lateral link is a bearing and doesn't need to be clocked.

On the rear, the key ones to get are the LCA bushing (166 ft-lb), toe link outer (129 ft-lb) and lower vertical link (129 ft-lb). The camber link inner is tough to do without altering alignment, although you'd be best getting one after clocking anyway. The rest of the points are bearings or non-indexing points.

As always, your wisdom is greatly appreciated! I’ve installed my springs and will be completing the clocking before taking it to an alignment shop. I’ll just leave the rear camber link to them. Your concise instruction is very helpful, thank you!

 

[1958cyclist]

This is a quite timely thread, as I had 1 1/4 " lower front springs and 1" lowering rears installed along with camber plates and some other minor suspension goodies in preparation for a wide wheel/tire install. Wheels are 19" x 11" custom offset ForgeStar units with 305-30-19 Michelin Sport 4S at all four corners. The back set up is fine, the front however has been challenging. I been to a performance shop that races Mustangs and has a very strong reputation.

I visited them twice for ever increasing negative camber adjustments to have the tires clear the fenders. The second time around, we dialed in 2.85 and 2.83 respectively on each side. The issue as mentioned above is that the passenger side doe not appear to have the same visual camber as the driver's side when on a flat floor. The driver's side looks like it'll clear the fender lip, but the passenger side does not.

So on my flat garage floor measured with a five foot level between both tires to make sure the floor was level, I then took a four foot level and measured from the base of both tires through the centerline of each wheel vertically and then measured the gap at the top of each tire several times and came up with these measures: The gap at the top of the passenger tire measures 7/8", while the same gap measured at the top of the driver's side is 1 3/8". I thought this somewhat odd given that the alignment report measures were so close, but reasoned that maybe alignment machines take into account the road surface crown? When I discussed with first shop, I really didn't receive a satisfactory response.

I'm taking the car to a different shop for a third alignment to get their perspective. The strut pins are also different as the photos show. Passenger side, almost in the center, and drover's side almost all the in toward the engine bay? Photos are from the second alignment session.

 

[JKL1031]

Confusing but it looks like they used the camber adjustment in the caster direction, which can cause a different ride height with them being different because of the angle of the strut..which is tilting the body giving a different visual of camber??

 

[1958cyclist]

Confusing but it looks like they used the camber adjustment in the caster direction, which can cause a different ride height with them being different because of the angle of the strut..which is tilting the body giving a different visual of camber??

Thanks for the feedback. I'll have the second shop check that out. Would this show up though with a different strut position in the fore/aft position on both sides? They both look to be in the same position...but then again, maybe that is not the only indicator?

 

[Dr. Norts]

Looks like your gonna need quite a bit of camber possibly more than the plates can provide to tuck the tires. They stick out quite a bit. Looks like 1/2-1".

What width rims + backspacing are you running?

 

[Bobombo]

Camber plates look weird!

 

[Norm Peterson]

Camber plates look weird!

How so?


Norm

 

[JKL1031]

Confusing but it looks like they used the camber adjustment in the caster direction, which can cause a different ride height with them being different because of the angle of the strut..which is tilting the body giving a different visual of camber??

it should have showed up in the caster measurement.. if you all were looking at it..

 

[1958cyclist]

Looks like your gonna need quite a bit of camber possibly more than the plates can provide to tuck the tires. They stick out quite a bit. Looks like 1/2-1".

What width rims + backspacing are you running?

I'm running Vorshlag custom spec offest ForgeStar wheels with 305-30-19 Michelin Sport 4S at all four corners. Apparently, it is a very tight fit with the Bridgestone RE71 tires used on the Vorshlag Mustang S550 Development Thread. The Bridgestone tread measures 11.1" while the Michelin's measure 11.5" both have the same 12.3" section width. The reason for me substituting was that Tire Rack didn't have the Bridgestone's in stock when I went to order and wasn't sure when they'd be receiving them. The Michelin's were offered as a good substitute so I ordered them.

In hindsight, I should have probably ordered the 295-30-19 sized Michelins for the front as they measure 11" tread and 11.9" section width. I guess I didn't realize at the time that .4" would be critical to getting a tire to clear the body work. Maybe the 11" wide wheel is the issue? It seems that most newer wheelsets like the ones offered by Shelby have a 10.5" front width and an 11" rear. The back and forth with the folks at Vorshlag prior to the purchase was very positive even when asked about lowering the car an inch or so. Their only requirement was the addition of camber plates which I did have installed.

I guess this falls under the live-and-learn category.

 

[Bobombo]

How so?


Norm

It just looks like the driver side has way more camber.

Maybe just the picture angle.

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