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BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

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Coosawjack

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CJ Pony Parts guy says 36MM "Hub Socket".......is that what I need to check my 2019 GT Axle Nuts??:inspect:
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Scootsmcgreggor

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Anyone have any thoughts on the idea to jamb nut these bad boys with another set of nuts? There’s plenty of thread left.
 

boB

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Anyone have any thoughts on the idea to jamb nut these bad boys with another set of nuts? There’s plenty of thread left.
If you do this remember the thin nut goes on first. Check boltscience.com.
 
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Blufc3s

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If you do this remember the thin nut goes on first. Check boltscience.com.
I assume the “thick” one is the OEM one with the washer that came on my 2015 GT, the one on the right pictured below?
 

boB

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EDEF8B95-B222-4582-837A-F370BC5A42D3.jpeg

I assume the “thick” one is the OEM one with the washer that came on my 2015 GT, the one on the right pictured below?
I am probably the wrong one to ask as I think the original system has worked for about a half million Mustangs and is good enough. For more information on jam nuts,loctite, etc. please look into Carroll Smith's excellent books or boltscience.com.
 

Blufc3s

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I am probably the wrong one to ask as I think the original system has worked for about a half million Mustangs and is good enough. For more information on jam nuts,loctite, etc. please look into Carroll Smith's excellent books or boltscience.com.
Yeah, I wonder if all the issues people are having are with the original design nut. Ford changed them fo a reason.
 

boB

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Yeah, I wonder if all the issues people are having are with the original design nut. Ford changed them fo a reason.
BoltScience mentions how the torque spec changes as we use a larger flat washer, Ford's engineers would know this and change the spec to suit the new nut. My impression of the issue is someone hears a noise, doesn't know what it is, then torques the f**k out of the nut in an attempt to "fix" it. The extra torque compresses/distorts//stretches the joint and the nut loses torque so they torque the f**k out of it again. And again.

The force of cornering at 1 G puts far less force on the joint than tightening the nut does. I agree that we are hearing something but not the nut loosening.
 

HoosierDaddy

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Yeah, I wonder if all the issues people are having are with the original design nut. Ford changed them fo a reason.
Lets hope it wasn't: "Bob, know those axle nuts that don't work? Let's switch to a cheaper nut that doesn't work."
 
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Coosawjack

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I just jumped on both of my rears with a 4 foot Breaker Bar and neither one was loose so I'm gonna guess my speed specific hummmm is Pirelli P-Zero "Side Effects"??:curse:
 

Seanay

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Thank God I found this thread. This S*&^ drove me nuts. Took me a few months to find this thread because I assumed it was first a brake problem, then exhaust hanger, then finally a suspension or bushing issue. I spent several hours on and off over few months to find the culprit with no luck. Never thought an axle nut, shaft, or entire hub would be an issue on a car that had 25k miles and not beat on or drag raced. I was gravely wrong.

My issue is the driver's side only, verified by two different suspension shops. Left rear wheel. Sounds exactly like the video posted by the member from South Carolina. It's an annoying metal to metal scraping sound; just like another member described last page, it sounds like a tin can dragging on the cement. Something light and flimsy rubbing against a non-moving object. Only happens on initial acceleration then disappears about 20 mph speed. Does not come back on braking or cornering, ever. Does not happen on reversing ever. It is not a clicking or popping noise. That might be another issue altogether. There are several members in this thread who point out that there is something called a friction washer/thrasher washer where the axle meets up against the back of the wheel hub area. I believe if you have just the tinkering type of light noise, this is absolutely the problem. It comes loose and then just bounces around causing the light scraping noise. If you are having popping and LOUD clicking type of noises, it is likely more than just a loose washer issue.

I went to the dealer and got 2 new axle nuts yesterday. The driver's side axle nut was definitely loose as i was able to turn it about 1/4 of a turn with minimal effort till it got hard to turn. Took off old one and put on new shiny one and torqued it to 140-150.with loctite and noise is now gone. The noise I hear off the old axle nut washer is very close to what i was hearing on take offs from a stop. It is loose and spins independent of the nut and one can hear the tinkering noise hitting off the nut. If the noise comes back, I will change the friction washer. Thank you to the members who posted about your washer experience. Because the noise that I hear is exactly what it sounds like, a washer loose bouncing around but until you pointed it out, I did not know where it was.
 

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My car has been garaged for the winter months and I just recently got it out. The weather has been excessively wet here for weeks. Raining almost every day. I've driven it this week without hearing the noise. I think my issue is likely some of the rubber on the IRS somewhere.
 

Blufc3s

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My car has been garaged for the winter months and I just recently got it out. The weather has been excessively wet here for weeks. Raining almost every day. I've driven it this week without hearing the noise. I think my issue is likely some of the rubber on the IRS somewhere.
You might try this if you think it’s the IRS rubber mounting bushings. I had my car out yesterday for the first time since installing this lockout kit and couldn’t detect any additional NVH.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-irs-lockoutk-kit-black-1516.html
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