BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

Discussion in 'Transmission & Drivetrain' started by BMR Tech, Mar 22, 2017.

  1. kapiteinlangzaam

    kapiteinlangzaam Well-Known Member

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    I got them from Rockauto.
     
  2. xxchieferxx

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    Update us on how these do for you. Im comsidering switching both of mine to those.
     
  3. Coyote Red

    Coyote Red Well-Known Member

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    I am at 39,000 miles and so good so far.
     
  4. TheLion

    TheLion Well-Known Member

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    Those cutouts are NOT for a cotter pin. They are pressure flanges. Take a nut off and then start to tighten it back on by hand. It'll go on really easy until you reach the crowned portion, then you will need a wrench to turn them. It's more or less a "quasi-staked" nut. It's not fully locked, but will add substantial friction.

    I had to remove both CV joints to do a diff cover swap after I sheared a diff bolt, so I just recently did this hoopla. And the new nuts have thread lock on them instead of being staked / crowned so I'm guess the thread lock is more resistance to loosening due to vibration and thermal expansion and contraction effects.

    I wonder if my staked nuts have backed out a bit and that's where my mysterious vibration is coming from that generally only happens around 110~120 mph...
     
  5. Jmart

    Jmart Well-Known Member

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    Just went through this on my 2017 with just over 6k miles. Heard a pop one day while cornering, followed by a metallic sound when either starting from a stop or rolling to a stop. Checked my driver's side retaining nut and I could easily tighten it with a 3/8" drive ratchet. Got new OE nuts, applied red loctite and torqued to 150+ ft-lb. Sound came back a week later, this time the passenger side nut was loose. Followed the same process and now all sound is gone. Hope it stays that way!
     
  6. moffetts

    moffetts Well-Known Member

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    I finally got my shafts swapped out with GT350 shafts and new timken hubs and new nuts. No noise yet, but we shall see. The nuts were on there with about a million pounds of force (needed a torch to melt the loctite, otherwise they were not coming off) so the clicking is either the CVs themselves being worn out or a tiny amount of slop between the splines in the shaft and the splines in the hub. If it’s the latter, there’s no way to stop that from wearing.
     
  7. highvoltage

    highvoltage Well-Known Member

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    Well i started to get the click and glad for this community and vendors like BMR. Driver side rear nut was definitely loose. Every other one was fine. Added some Red Loctite and will see how it does. Will probably be swinging in to get a new nut though soon.
     
  8. CoolRod

    CoolRod Well-Known Member

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    After autoX last weekend, I've got the ABS/Traction control/Advance Trac/Airbag lights on. Since I previously replaced both the axle shaft nuts and applied red loctite and still had clicking, it looks like I will now need to replace the rear wheel hub bearing assemblies. I noticed Rock Auto has several brands to choose from (Timken, Moog, Motorcraft, Mevotech). Has anybody found that a particular brand better than the other??
     
  9. Jmart

    Jmart Well-Known Member

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    Are you getting any noise after a few weeks of driving? My new OE nuts are still tight, but the metallic pop/clicking sound came back after a week and it seems to be getting worse again. I'm thinking the half shafts and wheel bearings may need replacing. Curious to hear how yours are holding up since you're a step ahead of me in the process. Thanks!
     
  10. moffetts

    moffetts Well-Known Member

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    So far so good. No creaking or popping.
     
  11. kapiteinlangzaam

    kapiteinlangzaam Well-Known Member

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    OK folks, so ive been meaning to update this thread for a while but never got around to it.

    My car has been clicking and popping for almost a year.

    -Factory bearings failed. Clicking started.
    -Replaced OEM bearings. Clicking continued
    -Replaced factory half-sahfts with FR GT350 items. Clicking continued
    -Replaced diff carrier bushings. Clicking continued
    -Greased/cleaned/checked the calliper carriers and disc guards. Clicking continued
    -Replaced OEM bearings with Timken. Clicking continues.

    -Have several sets of new bolts and flange nuts. No effect. Everything is tightened to BMR specs with Loctite. No effect.

    The interesting thing is, that everytime we disassemble the rear end to replace parts, and then reassemble, the clicking will completely disappear for anything from 1 day to 1 week. Or 50 to 500 miles. But it ALWAYS comes back.

    Im now in the hole for about $2,000 chasing this and I give up. I'll live with the clicking and popping.
     
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  12. Coyote Red

    Coyote Red Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to hear ^ problems, to update my 16 GT, build date 12/15 is still driving fine after lowering at 39,000 and I am now at 42,000. I drive as a Medical Tech over 6 county's in coastal bend and hill country Texas. Amazing car after BMR suspension upgrades.
     
  13. Fordman460

    Fordman460 Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know the the specs on the threads for the shaft? When I was pulling my axle nut off it messed up the threads on the shaft and I need to find a die set to fix it.
     
  14. bigyzf

    bigyzf Well-Known Member

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    Interestingly I had a wobble from my rear at 30-35mph.. So I jacked up the drivers side rear, low and behold the damn axle nut was loose. Not finger loose but definitely not 150ft/lbs. Torqued it to spec, and checked the passenger side as it was fine. Test drive and wobble is gone. Who knows how much damage was caused to the bearing (24,000 miles on car). If it comes back, off to the dealer it will go since its still on bumper to bumper warranty.
     
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  15. bigyzf

    bigyzf Well-Known Member

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    Update, there is still a wobble at 35mph so its apparently the tires. Having the tires checked with a dynamic balancer this weekend.
     
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  16. whalesalad

    whalesalad Well-Known Member

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    Was having a strange firm metallic clunk when backing into my steep driveway. That is where I first noticed it, really only on the drivers side. Then it started to get worse as the months went by and eventually began happening when rolling around slowly in parking lots (going from forward to reverse normally)

    The drivers side nut was loose enough to move about 1/4 turn @ 150 ft/lbs but not sure if that is considered super loose or not.

    Regardless I replaced the nuts and also applied red loctite. 150 ft/lbs plus a bit more for good measure. Fortunately my local dealership had them in stock.

    32mm socket + 2 axle nuts and about 15 minutes of labor.

    IMG_0583.jpeg IMG_0587.jpeg IMG_0588.jpeg IMG_0589.jpeg IMG_0591.jpeg IMG_0593.jpeg IMG_0595.jpeg
     
  17. moffetts

    moffetts Well-Known Member

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    Did it stop the noise? I started hearing a clunking sound under similar circumstances and it was loose lower control arm / camber link bolts. They wouldn't have been loose if I hadn't had to take the damn car apart so many times troubleshooting the stupid bearings.
     
  18. whalesalad

    whalesalad Well-Known Member

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    I haven’t heard anything yet, fingers crossed. If it continues I will post back here.
     
  19. Bbarfoot14

    Bbarfoot14 Well-Known Member

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    So the replacement nut is different then the one that came from the factory?
     
  20. moffetts

    moffetts Well-Known Member

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    The castle looking ones are the old style. They have been out of circulation for a long time.
     
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