BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

[raptor17GT]

It can be either a slower popping noise or faster like in the video.

holy post revial... mine sounds like this from 30seconds on, Get it when I'm reversing into the driveway, at least that is when I notice it. RHD car but it sounds like our passenger side / your drivers side. I'll see if I can get my missus to video the car when I'm reversing but from inside the car it sounds like a squeak / groaning just like the video above from 30s in.

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[bhvnce]

This thread definitely sounds like the issue I’m having… but torquing down the nuts doesn’t seem to fix it. The nuts I have are the ones from CJ pony parts which I believe is Ford part # CCPZ-3B477-G. Anyways, the clicking has happened before after an alignment was done (custom camber and all that as I am on aftermarket suspension) and it retorquing the new nuts fixed it right up. Now I’ve recently got another alignment and clicking is back but now retorquing new nuts is not fixing the problem. It only clicks when moving from a stop and it takes a little bit of a jerk to actually make the sound because slowly rolling won’t actually produce it. Also happens with downshifts on engine braking. I don’t think it’s the hub because there is ZERO play in the wheel when it’s lifted up and there is no noise whatsoever once it gets moving, only sudden movements from a stop and downshifts where engine braking suddenly causes car to jerk a bit.
Here’s a video of the sound. The nuts here are torqued to well over 150Ft/lbs as OP said. My torque wrench only goes to 150 and I have it a couple more shoves after so I would guess it’s probable around 155ft/lbs
https://youtube.com/shorts/otCpXTLjWKs?feature=share

 

[Torey3]

Popping, squeaking, wheels wobbling, vibrations and many other symptoms can occur when the rear axle to spindle/knuckle retaining nuts lose their clamping force.

I am seeing this almost on a weekly basis at this point, both with stock and aftermarket set-ups.

I have found that installing a new nut and torquing them to 150ftlbs + 1/8 turn with Red Loctite has been the best for myself and our project cars.

I recommend marking the nut to the shaft so you can inspect them occasionally to ensure the nut does not back-off of the threads.

Hi all,
Would this be covered under the 5/60,000 warranty? Here is what Ford said is covered:

• Rear-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, rear bearings, center support bearing, drive axle housing (including all internal parts), drive shaft, retainers, supports, seals and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.

Mine only does it in forward; does not seem to be present in reverse.

Thanks

 

[Torey3]

Its mostly just dirt and some surface rust, looks worse in a picture. When I looked at the parts in person they really dont "look bad". But there is that one funky spot on the splines. I am wondering if it was the bearing myself. Maybe when it loosens up there is not enough load on the bearing it causing it to bind? Hell I don't know, its purely speculation.

Did they replace them under the 3/36 or 5/60 warranty?

 

[bnightstar]

Hi all,
Would this be covered under the 5/60,000 warranty? Here is what Ford said is covered:

• Rear-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, rear bearings, center support bearing, drive axle housing (including all internal parts), drive shaft, retainers, supports, seals and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.

Mine only does it in forward; does not seem to be present in reverse.

Thanks

They should be covered. Also outside of warranty if you replace them my dealer is giving me 1 year warranty on replaced parts. Which mean that I'm covering my wheel hubs like that

 

[Torey3]

It's driving me nuts.

None of it warranty covered either.

$150,000 car here where I live, and this is the shit you have to put up with.

The ford 5/60 warranty covers:

• Rear-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, rear bearings, center support bearing, drive axle housing (including all internal parts), drive shaft, retainers, supports, seals and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.

Why did they not cover your bearings?

 

[Torey3]

Popping, squeaking, wheels wobbling, vibrations and many other symptoms can occur when the rear axle to spindle/knuckle retaining nuts lose their clamping force.

I am seeing this almost on a weekly basis at this point, both with stock and aftermarket set-ups.

I have found that installing a new nut and torquing them to 150ftlbs + 1/8 turn with Red Loctite has been the best for myself and our project cars.

I recommend marking the nut to the shaft so you can inspect them occasionally to ensure the nut does not back-off of the threads.

I found where my grinding squealing noise was coming from. Coyote spacers studs failed. Two of them sheared off.

 

[Torey3]

I found where my grinding squealing noise was coming from. Coyote spacers studs failed. Two of them sheared off.

My bad, a third one just broke when I dropped it on my workbench.

 

[carguy231]

I found where my grinding squealing noise was coming from. Coyote spacers studs failed. Two of them sheared off.

Never liked the idea of spacers, ever since a friend's wheel came off his 70 Cobra and ruined the rear quarter.

 

[Crowd Hunter]

I remember there was a TSB for the Taurus and Flex for this type of issue. The fix was a plastic thrust washer between the axle and hub. https://ford.oemdtc.com/701/ting-pop-or-click-noise-from-front-wheel-area-2011-2015-ford-lincoln

 

[kapiteinlangzaam]

Years later and my noise has never come back.... my solution is back on page 18.

You can obviously have issues with a loose nut or a bad bearing, but if its not that then its going to be the thrust washer.

Cheap n easy fix. Thought I would chime in again for the people not reading all 31 pages

 

[PC_GUARD]

Years later and my noise has never come back.... my solution is back on page 18.

You can obviously have issues with a loose nut or a bad bearing, but if its not that then its going to be the thrust washer.

Cheap n easy fix. Thought I would chime in again for the people not reading all 31 pages

I ordered new ones in to do my rear hubs. I am shocked those stupid thrust washers are $24 bucks from the dealer, totally ridic.

Timpkin hubs x2= $130 rock auto
Bolt replacements+ thrust washers+axle nuts=$97 Dealer
Red loctite $5?

Thats the complete rebuild to get rid of the "click" and womp womp

 

[DetroitMustangs]

I know you guys are dissecting this stuff, and I think it is cool to see various perspectives.

It is good to see this thread has fixed many people's issues. I have people occasionally thank me when they call, saying my method / post helped them with their issue they were having.

That said, I only shared my personal method which, to this day has been flawless for our multiple shop and my multiple personal cars that we thrash. I have yet to have a single issue with the method in the OP.

Results may vary, but the 150 + 1/8 turn has been flawless for us. 4 cars being thrashed and abused and we have yet to have a nut come loose.

Where any of these wheel bearing issues associated with an intermittent airbag light, wrench light, as well as drive modes not being available due to the washer possibly interfering with the wheel speed sensor?

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