BMR Suspension's New S550 Rear Upper SHOCK MOUNTS: SM760 - Design Finalized!

[tevaburns]

I installed mine a few days ago. Went for a Target run and something was grinding. I have 20x11 HRE's on the rear with 305's and the giant "bmr bump stop washer" trimmed off a little of the inside of my wheels. I guess I was running too much negative camber???

I've now made some camber adjustments and will test and report back.


View attachment 352129

Sponsored

 

[tevaburns]

I also could not use the lock nut that was included. The stems (past the threads) on the Ford "Track" shocks were too long to go into the rod-end. I got some taller nuts at the local auto parts store.

 

[BmacIL]

I also could not use the lock nut that was included. The stems (past the threads) on the Ford "Track" shocks were too long to go into the rod-end. I got some taller nuts at the local auto parts store.

This was something identified on the first batch as an error. Already fixed according to Kelly. I also used a taller nut.

 

[shogun32]

Already getting amazing feedback!

what is the radial and axial load rating on the supplied ends?
And a pox on Koni for threading their shaft for M10x1 which is only popular in Japan and nowhere else! (I deal with M10x1 all the time on Japanese motorcycle suspension)

I'm tempted to buy an oversize rod-end and make bushings to size back down to 10 and also rethread the female.

 

[shogun32]

hmm from the pics of that bolt it would seem the rod-end is overlapping the threaded section of the bolt. Ideally the spacers to either side should likewise only ride on a smooth shank section. Was a shoulder bolt not spec'd for a reason?

 

[BmacIL]

hmm from the pics of that bolt it would seem the rod-end is overlapping the threaded section of the bolt. Ideally the spacers to either side should likewise only ride on a smooth shank section. Was a shoulder bolt not spec'd for a reason?

It is a shoulder bolt and the rod end rides on the shoulder.

 

[shogun32]

@BMR Tech is the design for Koni/Steeda adjustable along the lines of a COM-M10T spherical bearing laying horizontal in a pillow block that itself swivels?

 

[shogun32]

It is a shoulder bolt and the rod end rides on the shoulder.

do you have an updated pic? Because a shoulder bolt is a precision item. The pic of the baggie of parts shows a partially threaded but otherwise standard bolt.

 

[BmacIL]

do you have an updated pic? Because a shoulder bolt is a precision item. The pic of the baggie of parts shows a partially threaded but otherwise standard bolt.

You're correct that it's a standard bolt with a shoulder, but the rod end is on the shoulder as installed. The fit is very tight to the bearing. No noises or play. The spacers don't carry any load, only act as crush tubes.

 

[NotMarc]

I also could not use the lock nut that was included. The stems (past the threads) on the Ford "Track" shocks were too long to go into the rod-end. I got some taller nuts at the local auto parts store.

I think I may be having the same issue? I'm not entirely sure of the best way of torquing down the rod end, it felt like it was bottoming out but i just didn't want to break anything.

@BmacIL @BMR Tech @tevaburns

 

[BmacIL]

I think I may be having the same issue? I'm not entirely sure of the best way of torquing down the rod end, it felt like it was bottoming out but i just didn't want to break anything.

@BmacIL @BMR Tech @tevaburns

Yes. See my post above. Use a washer(s) or a taller nut

 

[shogun32]

I opened an inquiry with MD Metric about the M10x1.0 rod ends. They supposedly carry Fluro if the presence of a catalog is anything to go by.
https://www.mdmetric.com/rodend/fluro/Fluro_Kat.pdf

Rod ends are NOT secure unless the jam nut is properly tightened against the main body. It would seem an extra-thick nut can be substituted to help position the big washer, but the better answer is to use a spacer slipped over the shaft and under the nut to position the washer's relative position.

 

[BmacIL]

I opened an inquiry with MD Metric about the M10x1.0 rod ends. They supposedly carry Fluro if the presence of a catalog is anything to go by.
https://www.mdmetric.com/rodend/fluro/Fluro_Kat.pdf

Rod ends are NOT secure unless the jam nut is properly tightened against the main body. It would seem an extra-thick nut can be substituted to help position the big washer, but the better answer is to use a spacer slipped over the shaft and under the nut to position the washer's relative position.

I posted the link to the M10x1.0 Fluro rod end a page or so back.

I put a washer and a taller nut on to ensure it was done right.

 

[shogun32]

I posted the link to the M10x1.0 Fluro rod end a page or so back.

Yes and I appreciate the link. I am in contact with the US importer of Fluro to identify a USA source and pricing which even at QTY=1-10 is considerably better than the source you identified. MD Metric is regrettably defunct. I reached out to Aurora and a couple other manufacturers to see if they would be willing to do a limited production run. I'm not hoping for much in that corner. It's also a bridge too far to ask Koni to stop using a wildly uncommon thread pitch on their rods...

 

[BMR Tech]

Just to clarify - there was a miscommunication on this product in house when packaging the first batch.

The "short" jam nuts that some people received are not what were spec'd out with the kit.

If you see this post and want us to send you the proper sized nuts, please give me a call or shoot me an email to [email protected]

Thanks!

Sponsored