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BMR Suspension New Product Release - Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing Kit - BK055

BmacIL

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I had these installed the other day because I was having a lot of issues with wheel hop in anything other than a straight line after installing a number of other products(see sig for full details).

Let me tell you these have helped a ton! Id say that the hop is 95% gone. Only time its noticeable now are under hard acceleration while turning and the tires break loose, but its only momentary rather than through the entire time. Its nice not feeling the hop while taking a normal sharp turn like the car was doing prior to the install.

The 1 draw back...and its quite noticeable...is the much stiffer ride. I feel like I switched out the mustang for one of those Nurburgring inspired track cars. Its night and day between how the car feels with and without them. It could be good or bad depending on how you like your car to ride.
You need the billet shock mounts. It will fix you right up. [MENTION=26233]Rebellion[/MENTION] had the same thing with a similar suspension package (even stiffer springs) and found a huge improvement in ride over less than perfect pavement and hugely reduced oscillation at the rear. Before the mounts, he loved the handling improvements from the LCA bearings but did not care for how "clamped down" and harsh it felt. I found the same improvements from the mounts, though I don't have the LCA bearings installed yet.

When you go to the BK055 and CB005, you have almost no rubber isolation anymore with the exception of the shock mounts, and that rubber actually prevents the shocks from operating properly. It becomes much more critical to have a spherical bearing at the top of the shock once you have taken the rubber out/removed its isolation.
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Bluemustang

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The billet shock mounts will remove some of the bounce and will make it feel more composed. The ride will still be stiff. The LCA bearing and CB005 stiffens things up mightily. Some softer springs might help but you got what you got.
 

WhiplashGo

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The billet shock mounts will remove some of the bounce and will make it feel more composed. The ride will still be stiff. The LCA bearing and CB005 stiffens things up mightily. Some softer springs might help but you got what you got.
Thats what I thought, better traction usually comes at a cost. Thanks for your input. Would still like to hear from Kelly concerning this.
 

BmacIL

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Long old bump, but as I just installed these (finally), I figured I'd share my review. Beyond what I say in my build thread, I'll say that I have not done a hard launch from a stop, but traction and power application does seem much smoother and more efficient without the bind and geometric deflection of the stock bushings. Oh, and, pardon my language at the end of the video :blush:. It is shocking how bad that bushing bind is. Truly shocking.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bmacils-guard-gt-build.36260/page-15#post-2558746
 

BmacIL

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Bumping this. This is a must-do mod IMO. The difference in traction is significant, and the car actually roll-steers now. More traction and better rotation simultaneously. Absolutely zero impact to ride or NVH, at least with the supporting mods I have (rear shock mounts being one of them).
 

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ckrumenacker

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The LCA bearings from BMR (and others) seem to do only one of the two (lower) mounting points to the cradle. Is there a reason no ones replaces both bushings with bearing? Maybe it’s unneccessary? Thanks!
 

BmacIL

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The LCA bearings from BMR (and others) seem to do only one of the two (lower) mounting points to the cradle. Is there a reason no ones replaces both bushings with bearing? Maybe it’s unneccessary? Thanks!
The rearmost point is already a bearing.
 

shogun32

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Some softer springs might help but you got what you got.
springs likely won't help. Softer springs mean for a given bump the shock travels faster and likely farther. Now if you're oversprung (suspension can't move because the spring is effectively "solid") then sure, going down in rate will restore piston movement. But 9/10 times the damping is just too stiff at high shaft rates. Reducing spring means the deficiencies in the compression valving will be that more obvious. I can't say whose compression damping is best/correct for these circumstances (between Steeda, Ford Perf, Ohlins) but if we could but pry a damn damping curve graph out of them we would be able to do a useful comparison.
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