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BMR 4-Point Chassis Brace Analysis & Review (CB006)

shogun32

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Are you designing your fixtures and welding the parts in order to prevent heat draw, or are you doing it to ensure the product fits the intended application?
I haven't studied the item they are trying to clearance. But I might have gone with a circular cut and put in a half tube. There is no reason why you can't keep that primary member 'straight' and then weld the ears on. In any event that seems like a lot of heat-draw.
 

JeffJ

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I haven't studied the item they are trying to clearance. But I might have gone with a circular cut and put in a half tube. There is no reason why you can't keep that primary member 'straight' and then weld the ears on. In any event that seems like a lot of heat-draw.
Or just move the entire square tube, uncut, back an inch, right? I mean, there's certainly room on the (uhm?) "wings" which bolt to the K-members.

Although I guess in that case, the tubes which go forward to the control arms would be longer and perhaps therefore weaker, so I don't know. It's a complicated problem.

Someone else suggested the rear should've been reinforced?

Whatever the solution, there definitely seems to be room for improvement.
 

Jaymar

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I believe the notch was added to accommodate the Gen 3 Coyote oil pan drain plug where the entire brace was designed originally for the Gen 2 on which it cleared with no notch. Easier to add a notch than redesign an already perfectly functional product. Regardless, it's much ado about nothing. Even with that notch and some slight heat warp, look at that bar and think about the forces involved, it should be more than adequate to handle them with almost no deflection. I'm too lazy to do the math but it looks more than adequate with a guesstimate.
 

JeffJ

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Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks again (to you, and the other guy). Like I said, just looking for some reassurance.
 

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GT 550

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@JeffJ thanks for the update. FWIW I'd go back to BMR and ask that they address the question, it's not a good look for any supplier to ignore questions like this.

Hopefully it turns out to be absolutely fine, and it probably will be, but until they come back to you with a satisfactory answer it's pretty much informed conjecture.
 

acemastr

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Had to take mine off, it rubs on the transmission lines and makes an annoying noise.
 

shogun32

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I took mine off Monday. It's perfectly straight as you can see.
BMR K-brace.jpg
 

JeffJ

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Yeah, that looks much better.

And BMR has become completely unresponsive to my inquires.

I'm not happy.
 

acemastr

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You have so much space between your transmission lines and the brace... mine touch, I have about 1" between the brace and the A10 trans.
 

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Danmg202

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My lines might have had a 1/16 at best and were touching at worst. Same issue with the steeda brace, it at least was easy to lower with shims. I'm not certain how bad of a bind it would cause to shim this one considering the forward mounting locations. I just put some insulation between them till I decide what to do long term.
20200719_112153.jpg
20200903_070945.jpg
 

DougS550

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The biggest issue with the steeda brace is that it doesn't fit. At all. Not even close. WAY off.
Totally Agree. Thats why I just swapped my Steeda out for the BMR 4 point brace
 

86pagt

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My lines might have had a 1/16 at best and were touching at worst. Same issue with the steeda brace, it at least was easy to lower with shims. I'm not certain how bad of a bind it would cause to shim this one considering the forward mounting locations. I just put some insulation between them till I decide what to do long term.
20200719_112153.jpg
20200903_070945.jpg
Mine was close also and used some fuel hose

ACFCC627-7F98-4E3E-AB8B-F0465F22C2FA.jpeg
 

thompsje

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Totally Agree. Thats why I just swapped my Steeda out for the BMR 4 point brace
If the Steeda didn't fit, how did you swap it out? I'm asking because I'm curious if you have back-to-back experience and if you notice any difference.
 

DougS550

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If the Steeda didn't fit, how did you swap it out? I'm asking because I'm curious if you have back-to-back experience and if you notice any difference.
When I installed it last year I sent my concerns to steeda but it fell on deaf ears.
1: The rear spacers which go into the OEM brace tube for the rear mount bolts were about .250 to short and thus if you torqued the bolt down to their spec, it would bend your brace way more than I would allow.
2: The rear section cross bar came into contact with my A10 transmission lines. I had to bend them back and wrap with Chad tape.
3: The front two mount barrel ends which go into the OEM front section tube brace would not go into the OEM tube without the use of a long pry bar.
4: The front two barrel end mounts hung below parallel of my sub frame and I did not like that.
So I just installed BMR four point brace and it fit flush, I like the way it mounted.
**Here are two pics of my BMR Brace and front Steeda Tow tie down brace.
Good Luck.
IMG_20220116_005027024.jpg
IMG_20220116_005131160.jpg
IMG_20220116_005027024.jpg
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