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BMR 005 and Steeda Alignment Pins installed, car drives good, but have questions?

jmeiers

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I just finished up installing the full Steeda Pro Action coilover suspension along with the rear adjustable springs/shocks on my 2019 PP1 GT. While I had it apart, I also installed the BMR 005 cradle lockout along with the Steeda alignment pins made for the BMR 005. I read lots of posts and watched plenty of videos of the complete install and everything went together more smoothly than some of the stories I have read about. Actually, very easy install overall. I took the car for a few drives and it rides very good, no added NVH, and tracks straight, even without an alignment yet. My question is:

Is it worth putting the car on stands again, then loosen all 4 IRS bolts at the same time, and then torque back down in a specific rotation to insure it is fully centered? I installed and torqued down the passenger side and then followed up with the driver side so I never actually had more than 2 bolts out at any one time. The bolts all started by hand easily so can I assume that the IRS is perfectly centered since everything went back together smoothly with the pins installed?

Thanks.
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BmacIL

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I just finished up installing the full Steeda Pro Action coilover suspension along with the rear adjustable springs/shocks on my 2019 PP1 GT. While I had it apart, I also installed the BMR 005 cradle lockout along with the Steeda alignment pins made for the BMR 005. I read lots of posts and watched plenty of videos of the complete install and everything went together more smoothly than some of the stories I have read about. Actually, very easy install overall. I took the car for a few drives and it rides very good, no added NVH, and tracks straight, even without an alignment yet. My question is:

Is it worth putting the car on stands again, then loosen all 4 IRS bolts at the same time, and then torque back down in a specific rotation to insure it is fully centered? I installed and torqued down the passenger side and then followed up with the driver side so I never actually had more than 2 bolts out at any one time. The bolts all started by hand easily so can I assume that the IRS is perfectly centered since everything went back together smoothly with the pins installed?

Thanks.
If you have the alignment dowels in, and all four bolts down, no reason to undo them.

You should, however, clock all the suspension bushings.
 
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jmeiers

jmeiers

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If you have the alignment dowels in, and all four bolts down, no reason to undo them.

You should, however, clock all the suspension bushings.
Thanks for the reply. By "clocking" all the suspension bushings, do you mean the car needs to be on a 4 wheel lift (weight of car on tires) and then loosen and re-torque all the bushings?
 

BmacIL

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Thanks for the reply. By "clocking" all the suspension bushings, do you mean the car needs to be on a 4 wheel lift (weight of car on tires) and then loosen and re-torque all the bushings?
Yes. It's important to do this to 1) ensure that you got the drop you expect, 2) improve ride quality, and 3) significantly prolong the life of the bushings.
 

Snakes&horses

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Thanks for the reply. By "clocking" all the suspension bushings, do you mean the car needs to be on a 4 wheel lift (weight of car on tires) and then loosen and re-torque all the bushings?
Yes,sort of. Here’s a link to a thread on here that shows which ones and torque specs.
upload_2019-3-31_16-44-28.jpeg
 

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Snakes&horses

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I couldn’t figure out how to post a link to the thread but was able to at least copy and paste that pic from the thread. I’m still partially technically challenged on here lol. If someone could chime in here and explain how to copy links to threads that’d be great
 

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BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550! <——-This is the title of the thread
 

Norm Peterson

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Might be taking a bit of a chance asking that on April 1st :devil:




Seriously, copy/paste the address of the thread (found in its own little box and usually starts out with http) instead of the thread title. There's a somewhat more advanced way that lets you substitute text of your choice for the http string, but that'll work for now.


Norm
 

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Might be taking a bit of a chance asking that on April 1st :devil:




Seriously, copy/paste the address of the thread (found in its own little box and usually starts out with http) instead of the thread title. There's a somewhat more advanced way that lets you substitute text of your choice for the http string, but that'll work for now.


Norm
Lol... thanks Norm
 

Snakes&horses

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Sorry for a stupid question but with a regular torque wrench is it possible to by hand tighten those bolts that are specced to 203fr/lbs. Specially if the car is on stands? Or is an impact gun needed for the task with a torque "stick" or whatever they are called

Is it even worth trying at home or should get help with this?
 

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Or is an impact gun needed for the task with a torque "stick
an impact gun is only for loosening fasteners. The exception are computer-controlled force-measuring units used in assembly plants. car on a lift is probably a lot easier to do that level of tightening than flat on your back under cramped conditions.
 
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jmeiers

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Sorry for a stupid question but with a regular torque wrench is it possible to by hand tighten those bolts that are specced to 203fr/lbs. Specially if the car is on stands? Or is an impact gun needed for the task with a torque "stick" or whatever they are called

Is it even worth trying at home or should get help with this?
I am trying to plan this out myself. I have no doubts that you can torque them down properly with a capable torque wrench. What I am trying to figure out is the best way to get the car up in the air with the full weight on the tires and also high enough for me to get under it.
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