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Biggsy's Track Build

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Biggsy

Biggsy

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Biggsy

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That drivers side is no joke. My install time per side was about the exact same as yours haha.

Are you going to align it yourself, or take it in?
Lol to tell you the truth I really don’t know if the lockout plates that most kits are supplied with are seated in the slotted hole properly lol. After messing with it for so long I called it good. I’ll have the alignment shop verify that they are during alignment.
This thing is getting towed from my apartment garage. I won’t be aligning it before it leaves.
 

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How has your AC GT350R spoiler held up? You've had it on there since at least 2019 right? Still looks hot.
 

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See circled.
IMG_9641.jpeg
What is funny (IMO), the side you circled is the easy side. It's the nut between the gas line and camber arm that is a PITA.

to get those lockout plates to lock in, AAD sends some sort of grease/gel that you put on the contact face, then just push it in, and it holds it in place. It worked pretty well. Still a massive pain. If I had to do it again, I would lower the subframe 2-3".
 

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Are the lines blocking access to the fasteners?
Ratcheting wrenches are a must. I bought my first set when I did the drivers side. TBH, I don't know how one gets that nut out without a ratcheting wrench. I am sure it can be done, but the easy button is lower the subframe.
 

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What is funny (IMO), the side you circled is the easy side. It's the nut between the gas line and camber arm that is a PITA.

to get those lockout plates to lock in, AAD sends some sort of grease/gel that you put on the contact face, then just push it in, and it holds it in place. It worked pretty well. Still a massive pain. If I had to do it again, I would lower the subframe 2-3".
You are absolutely right. I was going to mention that but I didn’t have a picture of that side. That gave me huge issues. The only 18mm I had was a flex head ratcheting wrench. It was a pit of a pain because it kept flexing the wrong way. There is also no room for a torque wrench so I just went as tight as I could for now
AAD is pretty thorough. That would’ve definitely helped me.

fortunately I was already removing the rear spring so that gave me better access to the inboard side.
 
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How has your AC GT350R spoiler held up? You've had it on there since at least 2019 right? Still looks hot.
Structurally it has held up great without any complaints but cosmetically the gel coating wore off and the sun caused fading. From a distance you can’t tell but because it’s my car, I can easily spot it. I talked to a body shop and they said that when I bought it, I should’ve had it clear coated because companies use a gel coat that wears off. Supposedly it can be fixed by sanding it down and applying clear but my plan is to move to a wing with more DF so I’m not too pressed about it right now.
 

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Structurally it has held up great without any complaints but cosmetically the gel coating wore off and the sun caused fading. From a distance you can’t tell but because it’s my car, I can easily spot it. I talked to a body shop and they said that when I bought it, I should’ve had it clear coated because companies use a gel coat that wears off. Supposedly it can be fixed by sanding it down and applying clear but my plan is to move to a wing with more DF so I’m not too pressed about it right now.
Thanks, this is good info. That's a bit disappointing to me they wouldn't clear coat it out of the box, but maybe that's because some people like to paint them? 🤷‍♂️

I understand why people lean towards the GT350 TP or swing/gurney flap as their starter wing/spoiler now I guess. My trunk lid has no holes and I lack guts to drill it, so I will likely remain spoiler-less for some time.
 
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Thanks, this is good info. That's a bit disappointing to me they wouldn't clear coat it out of the box, but maybe that's because some people like to paint them? 🤷‍♂️

I understand why people lean towards the GT350 TP or swing/gurney flap as their starter wing/spoiler now I guess. My trunk lid has no holes and I lack guts to drill it, so I will likely remain spoiler-less for some time.
Took some pictures to show what I was referring to. Not the best lighting

IMG_5099.png
IMG_5097.png
 

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Build is coming along nicely! What spring rates did you go with on the coilovers?
 

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Build is coming along nicely! What spring rates did you go with on the coilovers?
Thank ya kindly. I went with 600/750 but the 750 spring is too short. Need a 7” spring and helper. Someone local has a 700 spring that I will end up going with.
 

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Kind of surprised they're too short for such an expensive set. Is it sitting too low with the pre-load at the bottom of the threads? I ask because I've been saving for the same set-up.
 
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With the car in the air and wheel at full droop I can spin the perch all the way down and it will never contact the spring. You can kinda get an idea of what I mean below.
IMG_9649.png


After asking around if there was any cause for concern, it seems as though everybody has their own opinion about this since everything is find once the car is on the ground. From Facebook posts to forums posts, it seems as though Vorshlag may use a different shock body or lengths than MMR which is okay but just need to assemble it accordingly. I ended up on a call with Will (owner of WRTeknica) since I knew he has installed a few of MMR kits and he said that it is unsafe to run the car as is right now. The spring can unseat once the the suspension is unloaded and he assembles them with helper springs and 7" springs so that when at full droop there is some preload on the spring. Again, there are people who dont have helpers and dont mind this issue because once the suspension is loaded, the spring doesn't unseat on their car. I just rather be safe than sorry because my bank account can't afford the sorry consequences lol.

This is not something a person would know before hand unless the vendor mentioned it. I dont think MMR uses helpers. Wish I would've known so I wouldn't have to buy springs twice but at least coilover springs are universal so used sets aren't that hard to find.
 

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With the car in the air and wheel at full droop I can spin the perch all the way down and it will never contact the spring. You can kinda get an idea of what I mean below.
IMG_9649.png


After asking around if there was any cause for concern, it seems as though everybody has their own opinion about this since everything is find once the car is on the ground. From Facebook posts to forums posts, it seems as though Vorshlag may use a different shock body or lengths than MMR which is okay but just need to assemble it accordingly. I ended up on a call with Will (owner of WRTeknica) since I knew he has installed a few of MMR kits and he said that it is unsafe to run the car as is right now. The spring can unseat once the the suspension is unloaded and he assembles them with helper springs and 7" springs so that when at full droop there is some preload on the spring. Again, there are people who dont have helpers and dont mind this issue because once the suspension is loaded, the spring doesn't unseat on their car. I just rather be safe than sorry because my bank account can't afford the sorry consequences lol.

This is not something a person would know before hand unless the vendor mentioned it. I dont think MMR uses helpers. Wish I would've known so I wouldn't have to buy springs twice but at least coilover springs are universal so used sets aren't that hard to find.

I had a similar situation with my MCS on my ND2 MX-5 setup for SCCA STR class. The kit included helper springs and a Delrin coupler that aligned the main spring and the helper spring. You could do a similar thing here and only have to buy the helper spring and the coupler. I'm sure you can get both from Karcepts. Brian is a local guy and mechanical engineer. Just give him a call and tell him what you need.
Added picture of coupler.

Coupler.png
 

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Like you I'd be worried about the smaller spring. Imagine unloading the suspension over curbing? Helper spring or a longer spring seems like a must.
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