Beware of constant use of Iron Removers

[speedknot]

I'm in the process of changing my rims. When I went to remove the wheels, I really had to work hard to get the wheel off the hub. Once off, I noticed a lot of rust. Very heavy, flaking rust, was present on all four hubs. I've also been noticing that my rear calipers are prematurely rusting. These components I mentioned look like they were on a car that was dragged out of the ocean. Mind you that I don't live anywhere near the water and the car gets garaged 4 months out of the year and never gets driven in the rain. It only has 20K miles. I've been using Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel. Its one of those professional iron removers that smells like crap. It works great at neutralizing the rust, but I believe the constant exposing of bare metal is accelerating the rusting process. I also make sure that I thoroughly rinse the iron remover, but its very difficult to get all the water/cleaner out of the cavity behind the wheel cap. That's where it sits and does its damage. I can see maybe using this stuff once in a while, but I was using it every two weeks. They say its Ph neutral and non corrosive but there is some kind of chemical reaction that is happening that is making it rust way too much. I forgot to take pics of it before I started cleaning out all the heavy flaking but you can see how much the metal corroded. I was able to precision soda blast and wire wheel most of the rust. I'll coat it with a marine grade rust inhibitor before I put the new wheels on.

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[ice445]

Do you have aftermarket wheels? I've noticed my sve wheels trap some water behind the hubs sometimes that can create rust. I started fluid filming the hub face during my yearly wheel change from summer to winter and that cured it.

Not saying iron remover can't be the issue here, but it may be exacerbated if it's getting trapped back there.

 

[S550HPP]

That's horrific.

I'm pretty sure those products are designed to soak for some time then be wire brushed washed off.

I just put bronze or silver anti seize on studs and all surface in contact with wheel keep it new and easy to clean off to refresh.

 

[Evolvd]

Wow every two weeks? Yeah that’s WAY too often. Iron remover should only be needed every 3-4 months. When iron remover dries it turns into a white chalk and becomes inert which can trap moisture.

 

[Evolvd]

That's horrific.

I'm pretty sure those products are designed to soak for some time then be wire brushed washed off.

I just put bronze or silver anti seize on studs and all surface in contact with wheel keep it new and easy to clean off to refresh.

He’s using a detailing spray iron remover…no brushes required.

 

[S550HPP]

He’s using a detailing spray iron remover…no brushes required.

Based on the out come I would let that stuff sit for more than two days before scrubbing it off....that's messed up steel looks like its 80 years old from the ditch.

 

[speedknot]

Do you have aftermarket wheels? I've noticed my sve wheels trap some water behind the hubs sometimes that can create rust. I started fluid filming the hub face during my yearly wheel change from summer to winter and that cured it.

Not saying iron remover can't be the issue here, but it may be exacerbated if it's getting trapped back there.

Yes I have aftermarket wheels. They can definitely trap and hold moisture. I checked my stock wheels and noticed that they have the propensity to do the same thing. Funny thing is, as soon as I started using the iron remover, I noticed rusty water emanating through the lug area. I thought it just may have been shitty plating on the lugs, so I changed them to better quality ones, but the same thing happened. Now I know where the rust was coming from.
The caliper is a dead giveaway that this stuff is causing premature surface wear.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Damn that sucks.

Iron removing sprays, unless you live next to a trainyard or very industrial area are one of those things you didn't know you needed until all these detailing companies started marketing them as must haves. Once a year tops or if you notice little tiny flecks of rust on your car is when i've used them.

 

[kilobravo]

I started fluid filming the hub face

Love that stuff Ryan and use it all the time down here in 100 percent humidville for all sorts of ferris objects. But, I did the same thing as S550 with anti-seize.

 

[Skye]

Sorry to see that. But glad you noticed it now and are working on any needed changes.

One of the things I'm doing which could help you with the water holding issue: when washing the car, taking a parade lap before putting it in the garage.

With the car dry and just before putting it up, I take a slow lap around the block (small block). The overall effect is akin to a dog shaking-off excess water from cracks, crevices and where resting. And the brake discs naturally rub dry and clean.

In the garage, the body panel seams that have weeped any water are wiped dry. The face of the rims shows the water around the lugs and other areas being removed; these get a quick wipe as well.

 

[StangTime]

I would suggest only using iron removers when you have time to do it right. By that I mean a full detail job where you remove the wheels and can apply the iron remover where needed and agitate with a brush. Follow that up with throughly rinsing ALL remaining chemical off the parts. These wheel hubs trap moisture. No doubt about that. So the only things we can do is get the hubs good and warm by driving after washing. Or apply anti seize or fluid film to the hub surface and nut cavity.

 

[skinnyb]

Love that stuff Ryan and use it all the time down here in 100 percent humidville for all sorts of ferris objects. But, I did the same thing as S550 with anti-seize.

I do the same on my lawn equipment over the winter. Clean and fluid film. Sprayed on my hubs when I did new bearings as well. Also Antisieze on the hub too...

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