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Best way to get dragstrip consistancy?

gregsdart

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At some point i want to compete in Sportsman class at Brainerd Intl in Minnesota. The problem- if you can't run within .02 to .03 of your dial and consistantly cut .02 average reaction times you may as well sit in the stands.
So, i understand how to get to decent reaction times, but ET consistancy is all over the map on my few runs on the car.
Soooooooo,
After i get a great set of race rear tires (Et Street Drag Radials?) what else will help? I know enough to get IAT to the same point for each run. Also will turn off traction control.
I am thinking it may be best to run in Sport mode for consistancy and leave at a rpm of 1500 on the brake, or what ever will help reaction times. I may also look for some short , narrow front runners to help tune my car to my reaction time on the last bulb.
The car is a 2019 GT A10 pp1 with 3.55 gears. The class ET is 12.00 and slower, footbrake only.
Any help on making the car DEADLY CONSISTANT and predictable with my Weather station predictions will be a big help.
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cahouston

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So, i understand how to get to decent reaction times, but ET consistancy is all over the map on my few runs on the car....
The car is a 2019 GT A10 pp1 with 3.55 gears. The class ET is 12.00 and slower, footbrake only.
A few things here. First, consistency in an auto is all about the launch and traction. If you can sure up the traction through first and second gear, you are solid. That will take tires (as you mentioned) and likely some suspension to help with weight transfer and keeping the power to the ground. If you want to lighten the stress on your drivetrain, look to get a bias ply rear tire on a dedicated drag rear wheel. If you do that, I would suggest getting a drag front wheel on a bias ply front runner too. That will ensure stability at the top of the track. Otherwise, I have heard even at stock power, our driver's side axle will let go eventually when launched on a DR over and over.

The other big thing is practice. You mentioned you only have a few runs on this car. Practice is the key to reproducible success. My S197 was a work in progress over time but by the end, my 60' times were deadly consistent. I had the traction part squared away and had over 150 passes in the car. It takes time but that is also part of the fun. Finding small tweaks and changes in suspension and tire pressure to net improvements over time.

If you put a DR on that car and nail down the traction, you may break out of the 12.00 limit running into the 11s. That could pose a challenge as well.

Remember to have fun - if you aren't having fun, then why bother?
 
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gregsdart

gregsdart

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A few things here. First, consistency in an auto is all about the launch and traction. If you can sure up the traction through first and second gear, you are solid. That will take tires (as you mentioned) and likely some suspension to help with weight transfer and keeping the power to the ground. If you want to lighten the stress on your drivetrain, look to get a bias ply rear tire on a dedicated drag rear wheel. If you do that, I would suggest getting a drag front wheel on a bias ply front runner too. That will ensure stability at the top of the track. Otherwise, I have heard even at stock power, our driver's side axle will let go eventually when launched on a DR over and over.

The other big thing is practice. You mentioned you only have a few runs on this car. Practice is the key to reproducible success. My S197 was a work in progress over time but by the end, my 60' times were deadly consistent. I had the traction part squared away and had over 150 passes in the car. It takes time but that is also part of the fun. Finding small tweaks and changes in suspension and tire pressure to net improvements over time.

If you put a DR on that car and nail down the traction, you may break out of the 12.00 limit running into the 11s. That could pose a challenge as well.

Remember to have fun - if you aren't having fun, then why bother?
This looks to be my retirement from racing my 8 second dart. At 70 years old i am wanting a less labor intensive car to run.
 

qtrmiler2

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2018 mustang pp1 automatic with magna ride is what i run.Bmr cradle lock outs and a93 tune and running the same class also.19 inch drag radials made my car sway no matter what air pressure i ran.Mickey Thompson streets was the tire,go to a 17in.I called mickey thompson also on it and they said they had some issues with the new mustangs.
 

NC85

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Greg,

I've been bracket racing my 2018 A10 since the summer of 2018. As you mentioned its all about consistency. In fact, we just had a race this weekend (1/8) and it was a challenge chasing the car's et in the heat. I had and always have fun doing so. The car needs to be setup to run without braking the common items and hook. I'll list my mods below and bold the items you'll need:

2018 A10 - 3.15
PBD E85 tune by Tricky Trev
BB Ported CJ
Twin 69
PMAS
Kooks
Circle D
G Force DS and Axles
Steeda Loop, Stop the Hop, and Vertical Links
Baer Brakes
Mickey Rs 305/45/17 and 26*4.5-17 M&H Front Runners

Keep it cool in between rounds with a fan or ice (or both). I would say push it through the staging lanes, but at 70, just inch it up with the hood up (hopefully your track doesn't ban you for this) and close it right before you enter the burnout box. Log your trans and IAT temps and keep your launch rpm and burnouts consistent. The rest is chasing the weather and practice on seeing what she likes.
 

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Don't just turn off traction control, pull the fender plug under the airbox while at the track. That is the only way to 100% stop the computer from intervening.
 

IrishStallion

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Don't just turn off traction control, pull the fender plug under the airbox while at the track. That is the only way to 100% stop the computer from intervening.
My understanding is factory drag mode cars lose this mode once you unplug along with line lock. Mine is 300a with drag mode in the tune. I have zero problems running unplugged. I just do the burnout with the footbrake.
 

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I have zero problems running unplugged. I just do the burnout with the footbrake.
I agree. Once you disable advancetrac (without unplugging it) It's 100% Neutered. I have yet to see proof that it isn't.
 

LxMike

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Gregsdart, Time! Learn what affects your car and how. Being a bracket racer you already know what certain things do to your dart. You need to find that out with this car.
 
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gregsdart

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Thanks everybody. So this is what i have so far- stop the hop starter kit plus vertical links. I am thinking e85 ought to be more consistant? So i plan on a lund flexfuel tune, axles and and MT or Hoosier 17 inch tires. I am considering gt350 axles, if they are superior to pp1 axles and good enough to hold up to footbrake racing. I have a good weather station and will keep a good log of iat and other temps. I don't want to spend $$ for front runners since ET isn't the goal but getting to good reaction times off the bottom bulb is.
 

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qtrmiler2

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I would run 93,the e85 will have to be tested each time for the same alcohol level.Which may be an issue.Ive run high 11s and low 12s on 93.The fly by wire throttle seems a little lazy to me also,but im a delay box bike racer also.Just seem it reacts a tad slow.
 
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gregsdart

gregsdart

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I agree on the throttle reaction is slow and i am betting somewhere someone has tested this.
 

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