Best way to get bass to pass into cabin from the trunk besides folding the rear seat backs down?

[FreePenguin]

Oh no. I’m just adding the 4 plastic spacers to make a small 3/4 gap allowing bass to pass. Nothing destructive

basically porting the trunk.

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[FreePenguin]

Don’t know what I did wrong but 60 was way too long and nothing was working

I made the holes large enough for the spacer, I used a 1 inch spacer, with a m8 1.25 40 ss bolts. Works perfect.
The carpet is snug around the spacer no movement will happen and now the carpet can lay flat against its original surface View attachment 420457 View attachment 420458

 

[FreePenguin]

You can see the inch all way across.

 

[Mat]

I put a little superglue on all the screws and tightened the shelf speakers up, they was completely loose from vibrations and driving, tossed a drop super glue on each one. Shouldn’t get loose again

I had a rattle I couldn’t place it, it was a speaker that got lose.

so put the seat latches on top of the carpet with the spacers behind it? Any reason why didn’t put both spacer and latch behind the carpet?

Just trying to make sure doing it right when I get the bolts tomorrow

looks awful but tossed some dynamat extreme up there

Did replacing the parcel shelf speakers make much of a difference?
How hard is it to get the back off?

 

[aleccolin]

I like the seat latch spacer, but I'll probably get a sheet of black UHMW so it has full support under the bracket. Is 3/4" the magic number?

 

[jmeiers]

Quick follow-up on this thread:

After trying all the other methods within this thread, I ultimately solved "my" issue by switching my 12" sub from a small sealed box to a, not too much bigger, slot-ported box and it SLAMS so hard that I now have to keep my rear seats up on purpose and had to also dial back my amp settings and remote bass knob. Problem solved!

I know this doesn't help those with the JBL box (or similar) mounted in the stock location. My box is mounted rear-facing right up against the back seat.

 

[Bobn57]

I have a single 12 inch sealed setup (600 watt Alpine Mono amp and Type S woofer) connected to the stock 9 speaker setup via LC2i and I thought it sounded pretty good and was happy for the few months I have had it. However, a few weeks back I had bought something at Home Depot that required I lower one of the rear seat backs to pass the item thru from the trunk to the rear seat section to take it home. On the way home, I immediately noticed the bass hitting hard AF. I have since been leaving one off the seat backs down all the time because it is a very noticeable increase in bass. I didn't think the trunk was sealed up that tight to block the bass that badly. My OCD is bothering me and I don't like leaving one of the seat backs down all the time even though nobody else can see it.

I am looking to see what are some ways others have used to get the bass to pass through to the main cabin without having to drop the rear seats.

thanks a lot.....now i have to try that myself....leaving the rear seats down
I'll never sit back there so its all good. Nearly broke my neck when I climbed in back to clean the rear window. no head room for 6'4"

 

[StangTime]

You can also do this (a little time consuming but and doesn't mess with the seat backs):

"I went a different route after seeing this done by @Vicr . I removed the rear parcel shelf carpet and punched holes in the carpet. Ford has the panel already perforated but then they cover it with 1/4" of carpet. Creating such a restriction for sound to pass that it basically chokes any sound from coming through. The rear parcel shelf was actually flapping from the force of my JL ported subwoofer. I had to pull out the drivers side panel to get it out. I used an 8mm hollow punch to open all the holes in the speaker area. If you do this, use a super hard wood backing for something to punch against. I used a piece of very thick leftover laminate floor and did this on a concrete surface. Three strikes with a hammer on the punch from the backside for each hole for a clean cut.
Now, I don't like sound coming from the rear and those turds at Ford put the cheapest pieces of shit speakers they could back there. So I removed mine. Now I have a huge opening for the bass to pass through. If you go to this trouble and really enjoy having rear speakers, I would take this route as you will find you will get all the sound from the rear speakers passing through and it will also allow the bass to get into the car. The holes are not seen from the drivers seat."

 

[m3incorp]

Ported tends to make a lot of difference.

I have this subwoofer and I definitely don't need to put the seat down.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693307/JL-Audio-CS112G-W6v3.html

Quick follow-up on this thread:

After trying all the other methods within this thread, I ultimately solved "my" issue by switching my 12" sub from a small sealed box to a, not too much bigger, slot-ported box and it SLAMS so hard that I now have to keep my rear seats up on purpose and had to also dial back my amp settings and remote bass knob. Problem solved!

I know this doesn't help those with the JBL box (or similar) mounted in the stock location. My box is mounted rear-facing right up against the back seat.

 

[Evolvd]

If it's only a volume issue for you, just crank up the gain a tiny bit on the subwoofer amp to compensate for the muffling of the seats. If it's a quality of sound issue, you might want to put a bass port on the rear shelf. But do your homework before cutting into your car's sheet metal (Should be your last resort).

Although this is an older post I have to go ahead and state the obvious…the gain knob is NOT a volume control. Please for the love of audio do some research on what the gain function is for and stop recommending something that can damage equipment.

 

[Emilbadal]

^ I agree with you, totally. Gain is not a volume knob and I didn't mean it to be interpreted in such way. For some reason at the time, I was just under the impression that the gain control for subwoofer was set lower than the actual matching point of the signal, since the OP added a 12" sub added to factory to match the output of the rest of factory speakers. So I assumed that there might be some headroom for increasing the gain.

 

[southwestheat]

I'm really interested in doing the bolt spacer solution.

I see the link for the spacers, but am reading two different bolt sizes in different posts (40mm and 60mm). Can someone who's successfully done this post a link to the bolt that worked with these spacers?

 

[Chef jpd]

Both work, but to be sure, use the 40mm

 

[southwestheat]

I went to attempt this, and yowzah those bolts are really on there! Granted, I'm using a flimsy multi-tool that's not easy to grip.

For those of you that did this, were you able to loosen the t40 bolts with a ratchet/socket wrench, or did you use a drill/impact driver/etc?

I hardly need tools for anything. I don't mind buying whatever I need to, I just need to know what

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