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Best Tire For Stock 18" wheels

TuxedoPC

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What is the best grip tire for the stock 18" wheels I think they are 18x8???
More for a road racing/ autocross application.
Are we looking at a re71r??
How good is the set up going to be?
Will it be competitive??
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For 18x8" IMO the best you can do for a street tire is 245/45-18 RE71R or 235/45-18 Yoko A052.

If you are talking about a GT with that size wheel then I wouldn't have any expectation of being competitive in autocross, unfortunately. It's just too narrow a wheel for this big heavy car.

For FS I would try to leverage the rulebook to see if you can run 8.5" or 9" wide wheels and wider tires instead.
 
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For 18x8" IMO the best you can do for a street tire is 245/45-18 RE71R or 235/45-18 Yoko A052.

If you are talking about a GT with that size wheel then I wouldn't have any expectation of being competitive in autocross, unfortunately. It's just too narrow a wheel for this big heavy car.

For FS I would try to leverage the rulebook to see if you can run 8.5" or 9" wide wheels and wider tires instead.
How about road course. I want to find a use for my stock rims have have the most amount of fun on them
 

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How about a hoosier r7? When warmed up can that make me competiive?
If you are looking at hoosiers, then hopefully you can afford wider wheels, and wider tires to mount on them... Ditch those stock wheels if at all possible! Not sure if you are in a class with regulations? or what... But IMO, mustang's shouldn't even come with wheels that narrow from the factory. I have a set of 19x10 wheels for sale if you are interested in a wider wheel.

Can you tell us a little more about your car? What mods you have done, and who you are actually trying to be competitive with.

Thanks
 
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If you are looking at hoosiers, then hopefully you can afford wider wheels, and wider tires to mount on them... Ditch those stock wheels if at all possible! Not sure if you are in a class with regulations? or what... But IMO, mustang's shouldn't even come with wheels that narrow from the factory. I have a set of 19x10 wheels for sale if you are interested in a wider wheel.

Can you tell us a little more about your car? What mods you have done, and who you are actually trying to be competitive with.

Thanks
Well I already have coils and Titan 7 18x10 wheels as well as some cooling upgrades. I'm just trying to find out how to have fast lap times with stock wheels. My next tires for my 18x10s are going to be Bridgestone 0007's 265 45
I just thought it would be pretty neat to have tiny stock wheels mustang be fast around a road course. For why the 007's and not a re71r is because I daily these wheels. Thats why I was thinking about getting something super sticky for the stock wheels.
 

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I'm just trying to find out how to have fast lap times with stock wheels
forget the wheels/tires, you still have the 4-pot brakes and wrong-headed rotors. Fast lap times are not in the cards.
 

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it would be pretty neat to have tiny stock wheels mustang be fast around a road course. F
It won't be, especially with street tires. 235 for a nearly 2 ton car is way undersized.

If you want to learn the car and its limits as is, nothing wrong with the stock wheels and street tires. If you want to set blistering lap times, step up to at least a 285 if not 305 tire.
 

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How about road course. I want to find a use for my stock rims have have the most amount of fun on them
Ice racing.

8" is just way too small to be competitive on.
For Solo FS can run 19x9 and still be legal (RE-71 are currently the best option, probably a 275 when limited to a 9" wheel).
Most other classes you can run a 11" wheel or bigger. RE-71's remain the "street tire" of choice. Hoosiers A7's are the fastest R compound.

For track day use you don't have to worry about rules limiting wheel & tire choice (unless doing Optima Type events that limit you to "street tires").
And you want to run as big as you can get. Like 275's on 10" wheels as a minimum, up to 305's on 11" wheels.
Especially for track use sticking with the stock wheels is a mistake. You will just burn up undersized tires faster, costing you more in the long run.

Given you can get a set of 9.5 or 10" wheels for about the cost of a single Michelin Sport Cup 2 tire, upgrade now rather than latter. For autocross and track use it is very useful to have a dedicated performance set of wheels and tires.

Now if it is just you first few events, just run the stock wheels & tires until the tires are done. Have fun and forget about being competitive.
 

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Well I already have coils and Titan 7 18x10 wheels as well as some cooling upgrades. I'm just trying to find out how to have fast lap times with stock wheels. My next tires for my 18x10s are going to be Bridgestone 0007's 265 45
I just thought it would be pretty neat to have tiny stock wheels mustang be fast around a road course. For why the 007's and not a re71r is because I daily these wheels. Thats why I was thinking about getting something super sticky for the stock wheels.
The Hoosier A7/R7 245/40-18s are way too wide for an 8" wheel. Treadwidth is over 9" and while specs say it can go on an 8" wheel it isn't going to make the best use of the tire.

Most of us are of the mindset of daily driving our heavy, narrow stock wheels and competing on the lighter, wider ones on the weekends. Not the other way around, lol.
 
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Ice racing.

8" is just way too small to be competitive on.
For Solo FS can run 19x9 and still be legal (RE-71 are currently the best option, probably a 275 when limited to a 9" wheel).
Most other classes you can run a 11" wheel or bigger. RE-71's remain the "street tire" of choice. Hoosiers A7's are the fastest R compound.

For track day use you don't have to worry about rules limiting wheel & tire choice (unless doing Optima Type events that limit you to "street tires").
And you want to run as big as you can get. Like 275's on 10" wheels as a minimum, up to 305's on 11" wheels.
Especially for track use sticking with the stock wheels is a mistake. You will just burn up undersized tires faster, costing you more in the long run.

Given you can get a set of 9.5 or 10" wheels for about the cost of a single Michelin Sport Cup 2 tire, upgrade now rather than latter. For autocross and track use it is very useful to have a dedicated performance set of wheels and tires.

Now if it is just you first few events, just run the stock wheels & tires until the tires are done. Have fun and forget about being competitive.
Is it possible to fit 265 45's on a 10 inch? Theres more tire options in the area than a 275 40
 

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Is it possible to fit 265 45's on a 10 inch? Theres more tire options in the area than a 275 40
if the tire manuf gives a 10" as a possible fitment, I don't see why not. Some of the 265 run wide. Though there's lots of options in 275/40 or /35 and ditto 285 so what tire are you jonesing for that isn't available in the aforementioned?
 
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if the tire manuf gives a 10" as a possible fitment, I don't see why not. Some of the 265 run wide. Though there's lots of options in 275/40 or /35 and ditto 285 so what tire are you jonesing for that isn't available in the aforementioned?
well my issue is that my cars bcm is originally programmed for a 235 50 18 and can not be changed. The problem is with mileage. As im okay with a shorter tire to a certain extent. But with a 35 sidewall the difference becomes to great and mileage starts racking up quite faster. Also wouldn't it mess up shifts with the automatic transmission? This is why I shoot for a 40 sidewall at the minimum.
 

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well my issue is that my cars bcm is originally programmed for a 235 50 18 and can not be changed. The problem is with mileage. As im okay with a shorter tire to a certain extent. But with a 35 sidewall the difference becomes to great and mileage starts racking up quite faster. Also wouldn't it mess up shifts with the automatic transmission? This is why I shoot for a 40 sidewall at the minimum.
No it doesn't. I see people freak out over this so often (including myself when I was looking for new tires) but the difference is actually very minuscule. Going from a 235/50/18 to a 275/35/18 will create a 6.54% speed difference. So if you're odometer says you have traveled 100k miles, you will have actually driven 93,460 miles. That's only a 6500 mile difference over a 100,000 mile range. That's nothing to worry about.
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