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Best rotor/pad upgrade for PP1 front brakes?

PTM5.0

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Like the title says, what's the best rotors and pads to buy for the factory PP1 front brakes? Looking to upgrade and keep the Brembo calipers.
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BmacIL

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Like the title says, what's the best rotors and pads to buy for the factory PP1 front brakes? Looking to upgrade and keep the Brembo calipers.
What are you doing with the car? The stock pads are hard to beat for performance street use and mild track use.
 
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What are you doing with the car? The stock pads are hard to beat for performance street use and mild track use.
20-30 stops from 160+mph in a weekend. Extra weight doesn't matter as long as they won't glaze, warp, or hotspot.
 

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Like the title says, what's the best rotors and pads to buy for the factory PP1 front brakes? Looking to upgrade and keep the Brembo calipers.
What are the factory parts not doing that you feel needs upgrading, or doing that you'd rather they not do?

Swapping only the front brake pads could introduce other problems, if the coefficient of friction for the new pads is significantly different from PP1.


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BmacIL

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20-30 stops from 160+mph in a weekend. Extra weight doesn't matter as long as they won't glaze, warp, or hotspot.
I take it you're doing half mile drag runs? How much time between runs? Stock pads are probably more than adequate.
 

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What are the factory parts not doing that you feel needs upgrading, or doing that you'd rather they not do?

Swapping only the front brake pads could introduce other problems, if the coefficient of friction for the new pads is significantly different from PP1.


Norm
At my last half mile, I think I hot spotted/glazed the rotors. Normal driving they're fine but on long hard stops I get vibration.
 
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PTM5.0

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I take it you're doing half mile drag runs? How much time between runs? Stock pads are probably more than adequate.
Yup. Last time, I hotlapped the car in 90* temps and the front brakes didn't like it.
 

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Yup. Last time, I hotlapped the car in 90* temps and the front brakes didn't like it.
I'd suggest stepping up to a GLOC R10 front pad. Stock rotors should be fine. You'll need to remove the transfer layer of pad material from your old pads on the rotor. 80 grit and light pressure, circular motions works well for this.
 

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Same as above, but I'd do both front and rear pads. I run GS1 street pads on the street, and swap to their R12 fronts and R10 rears for track days (threshold braking from 140mph).

Track pads which can handle the heat of repeated stops from like 160 may be not very livable for daily use. They won't get up to temp and will squeal a lot and dust a lot. That's why the 2nd set for street use.

With GLOC pads, if you stay within their lineup, you don't need to clean off the rotors when switching pads because the compounds are compatible with each other. If you're swapping between incompatible compounds (like Ford pads for street and GLOC for track), then you need to clean old deposits off the rotor each time, which is a huge pain.
 

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The stock PP1 front Pads are actually quite capable. During my first summer of tracking them they held up very well, however, the rears totally roasted. Melted the pad material all over the rotors, boiled the paint off of the backing of the pad ect. This was in track mode so I doubt it was nannies. Anywho, I now run the steeda two piece rotor with powerstop track day pads. First track day with them in a couple of days.
 

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The stock PP1 front Pads are actually quite capable. During my first summer of tracking them they held up very well, however, the rears totally roasted. Melted the pad material all over the rotors, boiled the paint off of the backing of the pad ect. This was in track mode so I doubt it was nannies. Anywho, I now run the steeda two piece rotor with powerstop track day pads. First track day with them in a couple of days.
Be diligent and careful not to let the dust from those sit on your wheels for long, and minimize DD driving, as at cold pad temps they are extremely abrasive and will eat rotors.
 

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Be diligent and careful not to let the dust from those sit on your wheels for long, and minimize DD driving, as at cold pad temps they are extremely abrasive and will eat rotors.
I've heard this from more than one person actually. The car only gets sub 5k miles in the past year, including trips to the track. The minimum temp for the pads is somewhere around 56 degrees I think, so hopefully the hotter Texas weather keeps them at the bottom of their thermal range for most of the year, my second vehicle gets all the driving when its cold or rainy out. I dunno what to do about the dust. Ive heard it can be corrosive and will be getting new rims when the current set of tires wear out. Ill throw a couple of coats of ceramic coat on them before they go on to try and minimize any issues.
 

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I've heard this from more than one person actually. The car only gets sub 5k miles in the past year, including trips to the track. The minimum temp for the pads is somewhere around 56 degrees I think, so hopefully the hotter Texas weather keeps them at the bottom of their thermal range for most of the year, my second vehicle gets all the driving when its cold or rainy out. I dunno what to do about the dust. Ive heard it can be corrosive and will be getting new rims when the current set of tires wear out. Ill throw a couple of coats of ceramic coat on them before they go on to try and minimize any issues.
That should help. Just don't let it stay on for long. Wash asap.
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