Best Radiator For boost?

19VelocityBlueGt

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So it was like 100 degrees here in SEMO yesterday went for a drive to test out the new alignment. We go through a couple drive thu’s and iat jump up to around 138-140 no ice in ice tank. With Vmp triple pass H/E w fans performance package radiator currently installed.

Well that’s enough for me to wrap my headers with heat wrap, along with my installed already header blankets. New/Better Intercooler pump along with helping with the efficiency of the cooling system since the oil/trans coolers are integrated into the cooling system. (Well as of now Until I can afford to have there own cooling as well) I figure I will do everything I can think of to try to get everything as efficient/cool as possible.

I was looking at mishimoto radiator originally.. Then I saw the price (600$) Wasn’t sold on the three rows either. After reading department of boost data with heat exchangers. Evidently three rows actually doesn’t allow air to flow as well as two. That makes sense to me as well.
The csf High performance radiator was custom made just for the newer mustang platform. And the specs sound great!! About exactly the same dimensions as the Mishi as well. It’s two row vs three. They (csf) claim it’s the #1 performing radiator available. And it’s 200$ Cheaper 🤔😀👍 I believe I’m sold. Has anyone upgraded from pp1 rad to csf? I’ll add a forum post of csf salesmen stating more information. But I’m pretty sure I made the right decision.
Can anyone else help give ideas about lowering oat’s in extreme heat.? And any before/after numbers with upgrading radiator?

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Decible

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I believe CSF also manufactures all of the radiators for Shelby American and all of their performance packages as well.
 

EFI

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I've had good luck with the Mishimoto, but did not spend anywhere near $600 for it. Wait for a sale or Black Friday and you might be able to get it for under $400.

CSF is a good brand too, but if I couldn't buy the Mishi at that price, I would get one from Watson Racing.

Although be advised that radiators don't really impact IATs, which is what you seem to be worried with. I didn't see any mention of CHT or oil temps in your post.
 

Angrey

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The radiator won't help your IAT2's. That's the intercooler heat exchanger.

More importantly, if you want to improve IAT2's with stop and go traffic, have the tuner run your fans on high speed earlier, install a large vent in the hood and as you said, heat wrap or ceramic coat your headers.

IAT's are a combination of the thermal energy the air already contains (temp at the filter inlet) and then the intercooler's ability to cool the charge once compressed. Having an ice tank will help both with expanding the exchanger heat sink (more fluid means it can soak up more energy for every rise in degree) and also the ice helps increase the amount of heat sink (temp delta) the exchanger can accomodate.

I was getting CHT's rising all the way to 230 sitting in stop and go and then I turned on my A/C only to discover they started falling. Tuner fixed the fan settings.
 


Zrussian13

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If you want low iats switch to turbos. My iats are lower with twins than they were with a jlt intake NA. I can sit in the drive thru for 20 minutes in AZ and my iats only creep about 12° above ambient.
 

Jackson1320

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the best radiator is whatever came in the car unless you start overheating and even then it's probably not the radiator. do more research and make sure u understand what part you need for what outcome. as stated a radiator will do nothing for iat
 

Cory S

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At speeds below 20mph down to idle, the airflow through the radiator is far more important that what radiator is in place.
 

brianbr

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I have an Edelbrock 2650 on my 19. Iat's are excellent with the mods I have done. Cruising with ambient temps below 90 degrees I have seen iat's 6 degrees over. Above 100 ambient 11-15 degrees over. Yesterday ambient temps were 106 after a hot soak the car had 143 degree iats after 5 minutes of driving they got down to 122 on the street and 118 on the freeway. Cht's almost never go over 205 but I don't rag on the car when it's real hot out either.

PP radiator, reische 170 degree thermostat, stock grill with the upper and lower opened up and the rear hood seal removed. Distilled water and water wetter only in the low temp system.
 
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19VelocityBlueGt

19VelocityBlueGt

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Pitting a big intercooler in front of the factory radiator has got to impact the cooling efficiency. Especially in stop and go traffic. It’s fine doing 70 down the freeway. Im just trying to take care any and all heat the best I can.
 

brianbr

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Yes it does. My iat's we're way higher before doing the mods I listed. Get the 170 deg thermostat and get your tune adjusted for it and see how much it changes.
 

Cobra Jet

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There's nothing wrong with Mishimoto products and most folks don't even realize they're built right here in the US. I have their radiator in my 94 Cobra - in fact if we really want to go down the road of "higher quality", the Mishimoto replaced a leaking Fluidyne radiator.

It also was not the first Fluidyne - it was the 3rd I've had in the car in 18 years of ownership... @ over $400 a pop for each one. There's no reason anyone should have to replace an aftermarket aluminum radiator... not 1x, but let alone 3 in a vehicle that isn’t even daily driven anymore. Each Fluidyne leaked from the core row intersection into the tanks.

The Mishimoto I received was better over all build quality as far as welds and construction than the last 3 Fluidynes. It also comes with a LIFETIME warranty. Once you receive the radiator, register it on their site. That is something Fluidyne and other aftermarket radiator manufacturers do not offer. Mishimoto stands behind their products 100%.


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Here’s a tip for potential Mishimoto customers -

Search Mishimoto on Amazon, they have an Amazon store. Search using the exact Mishimoto Radiator part number. If you have any Amazon discounts or "perks" or qualify for any, those can be applied, plus free shipping. I purchased my Mishimoto for my 94 Cobra in 2021 on Amazon and my total OTD price was far less than any Mustang vendor found online.

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Another important aspect of cooling is your fan total CFM (cubic feet per minute). The higher the CFM rating, the more airflow over the radiator core and the quicker the core is cooled.

There’s another thread on here discussing the GT500 electric fan, which is a really nice design, and should cool most S550’s without issue, but there’s no mention of the CFM value.

SPAL fans are excellent aftermarket fans. The one I have on my Cobra is a SPAL dual 11”, with a 2720 CFM rating which is more than enough for a street application. I also have them wired so when they kick on, they always come high speed (even though they can do low/high).

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IAT’s:
Are you running an open CAI or closed? Open CAI that is not sealed against the hood will introduce more under hood engine heat into air intake tract than a closed CAI - this is fact. Open CAI is excellent for a dedicated track car that sees maintained high mph/rpm and continuous air flow, with no frontal obstruction (ie:traffic). If running an open CAI on a vehicle that is daily driven and sees nominal traffic, sits in traffic, or hits many traffic lights (stop-n-go), then that open CAI is now a HAI, sucking tons of hot under hood heat into the air intake tract - fact.

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Coolant mix also will affect cooling temps for engine/rad core. If you’re in a region where you do not experience freezing temps, the coolant ratio can be 70% distilled water and 30% coolant, as opposed to needing a 50/50 mix for winter months, or more coolant offsetting water ratio. There are also products that claim by adding them to the coolant, can lower coolant temps even more (ie: Redline Water Wetter).
 

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To supplement the above, by running a mixture of 1:3 antifreeze to water, you get MOST of the boiling point elevation benefits with a very small reduction in specific heat (thermal transfer). Running straight water with a 1.5 bar coolant cap, your coolant will reach about 233F before it boils. Once the coolant boils and forms voids, it's downhill from there very quickly. So if you stay below 233F then straight water has the most heat transfer. However, if you want 8-10 degrees more cushion, then run about 25% antifreeze. You'll lose some heat transfer, but it's worth the additional boiling point elevation.

Running 50/50 mix makes sense for cold climates, but if it never freezes, 50/50 does raise the boiling point a few more degrees, however it's a much larger reduction in thermal conductivity.
 

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Pitting a big intercooler in front of the factory radiator has got to impact the cooling efficiency. Especially in stop and go traffic. It’s fine doing 70 down the freeway. Im just trying to take care any and all heat the best I can.
if the intercooler is clean and a good brand it should not effect airflow. at idle you are Relying 100% on your fans. make sure your shroud has a good seal up against the radiator
 

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I added a very large intercooler, in the heat it runs warm now. I did the CSF, water wetter, mostly water, and it is a little better. I also have hood vents as well now. I was considering trying to pull the tstat to see if would run a little cooler. It doesn't overheat, but I see 210+ on short pulls. It runs around 195-200 in the Texas heat. I can get it to 185 with the heater on. I do need to look into some ducting up front as I had to pull out the stuff that was there to fit the intercooler. Unfortunately, I probably won't have time to mess with it until next year.
 

 
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