BEST MODS TO TIGHTEN UP THE CONVERTIBLE

[Mikethehunterguy]

I will definitely try the front brace. Maybe the 4 point. The bushing lockout kits look very interesting for suspension accuracy, but I am concerned about stiffening suspension, then transferring extra load into the chassis. The flex could get worse over time, negating the efforts spent on the suspension. Anyone have a high mileage hopped up vert? I only have 14k on mine.

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[Wolvee]

Cage all things Convertible.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

I will definitely try the front brace. Maybe the 4 point. The bushing lockout kits look very interesting for suspension accuracy, but I am concerned about stiffening suspension, then transferring extra load into the chassis. The flex could get worse over time, negating the efforts spent on the suspension. Anyone have a high mileage hopped up vert? I only have 14k on mine.

I'm running 700+whp and zero cowl shake or flex under normal driving. I'm sure at full throttle there is some, but it's not noticeable.

My 1997 Cobra vert with a Paxton got so bad that I had trouble closing the door.

 

[MKMotorsport]

A 4 point will stiffen it up real good. Highly recommended.

 

[BRUMBE]

Here is Australia the US PP version is the baseline car. I have a 2017 (May build) GT convertible which I have driven 58,000 km (36,000 miles) in 2 years - 14 August is the anniversary date. Yes, it's a 'daily driver' and much of my drive is highway / expressway so I've had great oil life changing at about 14,000 km against a OEM planned life of 15,000 km. I know guys who urban drive getting significantly shorter oil life.

I installed Steeda progressive springs about 14 months ago and swapped out the Pirelli P Zeros (only 26,000 KM life!) to the Michelin 4S that is standard now on Mustang. The combination of springs and Michelins has made a significant difference. The springs dropped the car almost 1 inch and that has added stability, especially at launch and in corners. I also have installed a tower strut brace (not standard for Australian models), a RHD version of course, which I believe made a positive difference. There is scuttle but that's pretty much a feature of convertibles (except perhaps for some very expensive European convertibles).

May look further at additional bracing on rear axle.

I'll be keeping this car - three children very keen that I do so - so each improvement is an investment (so I tell my wife)! Stereo upgrade next.

Cheers.

BRUMBE

 

[CVCashmere]

Brumbe I would suggest you read several articles on bracing the underneath of the mustang and installing a K brace and firewall brace on the topside. These will also help your car-you may already have them as the top strut bar was removed on RHD cars due to pedestrian safety laws.

Seek...there are answers out there to help.

CVCashmere

 

[BRUMBE]

Thanks.

The K brace came standard in Australia, otherwise I would have fitted one when I did the strut brace.

 

[Expat]

I know this thread has been dormant for a while, however it is the closest on topic thread I could find.

I recently changed from a '16 coupe to a '20 vert. I have noticed a large amount of rear chassis flex when traversing diagonally a bump (my driveway, a parking lot etc...) when either rear tire is lower than the opposite. It is very noticeable by looking at the doors and windows. I estimate betwee 6 to 8 mm of flex. (Safe testing includes residential streets at 0.3 MPH )

Ok I know a vert will not be as stiff as a hard top, however I want to stiffen up the rear chassis now while the car is still "new". I have listed all mods in my signature and without avail, expected the jack rails and tow hitch to assist.

Any suggestions on how to tighten up the rear chassis? I am a retiring veteran who enjoys cruising. No need for track mods nor wheel hopping burnouts, just the occasional spirited driving full on power while accelerating and canyon drives with the wife closing her eyes . Thanks in advance for your advise.

 

[Tim_]

Stiffen the body at the back, along the length and at the front. else whatever you make more solid at the back with lock outs will be transferred to the front due to a lack of a roof.

so stiffen rears with lock outs, then go for jacking rails and front cross brace, it’ll make the body stiff and the suspension can flex Nicely.

 

[Mortis]

Stiffen the body at the back, along the length and at the front. else whatever you make more solid at the back with lock outs will be transferred to the front due to a lack of a roof.

so stiffen rears with lock outs, then go for jacking rails and front cross brace, it’ll make the body stiff and the suspension can flex Nicely.

I just purchased a 2019 vert gt and was wondering if something like that was still a thing. Back when I had my 96 vert you could get bolt/weld frame rail stiffeners. I’m guessing jacking rails are similar in function?

HutcH
2019 White Convertible GT Premium
Pretty stock so far…

 

[Tim_]

I just purchased a 2019 vert gt and was wondering if something like that was still a thing. Back when I had my 96 vert you could get bolt/weld frame rail stiffeners. I’m guessing jacking rails are similar in function?

HutcH
2019 White Convertible GT Premium
Pretty stock so far…

They’re designed as a jacking aid first and foremost to protect the body, it’s coincidental that they help the verts out. Some rails are better than others, some claim stiffness gains and others don’t. It’s marginal, but combined with a number of smaller changes it does add up to a larger one.

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