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Best long block (for boost) that could theoretically run on a stock tune and pass CA smog?

illadvised

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I have been saving up money for a second block to be built and I am not sure what direction to go. I see all kinds of advice on here for different blocks, companies, head combos and compression ratios but I am not sure of many with the requirement that would also let it use a stock tune

It is my daily driver and I do smog here in California every two years. So I'd be swapping parts back and forth as needed

What are the main things I would need on a gen2 car for a lot of boost and good reliability? Gapped rings, upgraded chains and guides, 12mm studs, crank sprocket and oil pump gears seem to be common. Id hope this would run fine on a stock tune and pass smog?

At what point are rods, pistons and sleeves a requirement; and should I be looking at gen3 or any other fancy blocks? Any companies I should go with, or just have a used gen2 long block rebuilt with the above parts at a local shop?

Thanks
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illadvised

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What stock tune? And what fuel?
The original Ford tune with all stock parts.

Fuel would be 87/91 on the stock tune. If the motor was built and in between smog, I'd do e85 with forced induction. I understand that stock compression ratio and stock displacement might not be best for a built forced induction motor though
 

engineermike

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In your situation with an open checkbook, I would procure a new 5.2 block, Predator Crank and rods, and voodoo pistons. Balance and assemble with .080 head gaskets to drop the compression to 11/1. This should be bullet proof and powerful, but close enough to stock that the tune wouldn’t require any changes. The other bits you listed are also a good idea, though I wouldn’t get too carried away with ring gap.

Note I’ve never done the voodoo piston in a predator myself, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
 
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illadvised

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5.2 block, Predator Crank and rods, and voodoo pistons. Balance and assemble with .080 head gaskets to drop the compression to 11/1.
Sorry I am new to engine building. This would pass smog on the stock tune and handle milage well? And a tuner like Lund would be able to tune it like any other coyote?

What ring gap would you recommend? I have a 2200sl now, but would like to eventually go with a hellion kit eventually

Thank you so much Mike!
 

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engineermike

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You’d be adding just 11 cid and taking away 1 compression number. I just don’t think this would be enough to significantly affect the engine calibration.

As for mileage, it’s all oem parts so it should run lots of miles.

I’m certain Lund can tune it, but it’s really up to them. I’ve tuned more extreme combinations myself, so they shouldn’t have an issue but you’d have to talk to them.

Ring gap is a hot topic. The motor I’m building now is getting .014 for the top ring and .025 for the second. The last one I built I put at .018-.020 top ring and also .025 for the second. These are both for boost. I really don’t think anything over .020 is necessary. Lots more on this subject.
 

bauern

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In your situation with an open checkbook, I would procure a new 5.2 block, Predator Crank and rods, and voodoo pistons. Balance and assemble with .080 head gaskets to drop the compression to 11/1. This should be bullet proof and powerful, but close enough to stock that the tune wouldn’t require any changes. The other bits you listed are also a good idea, though I wouldn’t get too carried away with ring gap.

Note I’ve never done the voodoo piston in a predator myself, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
Is the small end of the predator rod tapered? The OEM voodoo piston pin boss is tapered to match the voodoo rod. A normal small end rod will not fit. (I'm assuming you're going OEM here as well).
 

engineermike

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@bauern this is the stock predator. Looks to be tapered to me. Is this what the voodoo looks like?

B265BDF4-B232-431F-A36C-8936AE7FD965.jpeg
 

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olaosunt

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In your situation with an open checkbook, I would procure a new 5.2 block, Predator Crank and rods, and voodoo pistons. Balance and assemble with .080 head gaskets to drop the compression to 11/1. This should be bullet proof and powerful, but close enough to stock that the tune wouldn’t require any changes. The other bits you listed are also a good idea, though I wouldn’t get too carried away with ring gap.

Note I’ve never done the voodoo piston in a predator myself, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
I have a predator block with predator crank / Manley H rods with the tapered end and voodoo /Mahle pistons .
I could be persuaded to sell it if someone has a desperate need .

D8670E68-76B3-4877-8171-F4C1F7559C52.jpeg


F702D109-B049-4B9E-94D8-6BE81298730A.jpeg


FE01216D-CB8B-4FF2-B22D-681D1AD5987E.jpeg
 

Gen1F150

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I have a predator block with predator crank / Manley H rods with the tapered end and voodoo /Mahle pistons .
I could be persuaded to sell it if someone has a desperate need .

D8670E68-76B3-4877-8171-F4C1F7559C52.jpeg


F702D109-B049-4B9E-94D8-6BE81298730A.jpeg


FE01216D-CB8B-4FF2-B22D-681D1AD5987E.jpeg
Still available?
whats your location?
 

olaosunt

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yes .
Indianapolis area.
 

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As long as compression is the same, valvetrain is the same you’ll be fine on a stock tune. What’s the end goal? If you run e85 and boost you’ll need a fuel system, that will be a pain to swap everything over everytime you need to get a smog test.
93 or 91 with vp octanium and BAP can get you decent power with a whipple, we’ve pushed cars over 700rwhp on pump fuel.
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