Best Connecting Rods money can buy for 1500 RWHP

Discussion in 'Forced Induction - 5.0L V8 Engine' started by Tiago G., Jan 6, 2020.

  1. OP
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    Tiago G.

    Tiago G. Well-Known Member

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    #31 Tiago G., Jan 29, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2020
    It's funny the more you talk to people involved with the coyote world the more you hear about these horrible crankshaft stories in higher HP cars.
    The issue is not really related to Centrifugal superchargers or P.D. blowers only as many people may thing because the same thing seems to be happening to turbo cars between 1K to 1300 RWHP using the OEM crank it just fails at some point. I don't know WTH it is causing that if its too much RPM or whatever but is happening since the 1st gen coyote came out.
    I think that my Callies Crank choice is a good one step above stock option and achieve my HP goals with this thing. I don't want to spin my engine over 7500 rpm anyways in this build even though some are spinning these things to the moon, I won't, especially with the longer stroke it will be making. i would love to go with a Bryant Crank but the almost 5K price per unit, turnaround and 1500+ HP are things I'm not looking for this build. I also have 0 intentions of O-ringing the block.

    I was reading about your stroker plans before I even knew that Callies was offering the 3.8" and 3.9" cranks and found out to be very interesting that we could achieve the extra cubes especially with these blocks. If a new crank is going to be ordered, why not take full advantage of the whole rotating assembly being upgraded and also build up a capable bigger engine? To me it was a no brainer.

    I'm not sure about the Ross pistons dimensions except that they are not an off the shelf set for the coyote and they will be a 3.7" bore and 12:1 compression. Also, the rods needed to be different and they told me that the Turbo Tough Rods are not available to be purchased for this Bore/ Stroke configuration of the coyote, only the Manley pro series are at this time.

    So, I'm curious and excited to see what this build is going to result ( yours too ), not only in numbers but drivability, tunability, fuel systems, and the most important thing to me which is the longevity and reliability.
    My car will be driven to and from the track and will be a 110% full street car. i'm not looking to beat records or anything just want to have my fun and be able to crank it up without scratching my head in fear or knowing a lot could go wrong if I did that. As the weak links are being taken out of the equation slowly and being replaced with better, more expensive and much more reliable parts inside and outside the engine, etc,, I will finally be able to enjoy the T.T. kit but not at OEM type of boost 5-10 psi but at big boy boost level which I hope it will be enough for me and not even more addictive than this whole thing has become during my many many years in this hobby. LOL.
    I even thought about a GT500 but what's the point of buying a car that starts at 80k+ that will result similar #'s to a boosted 5.0 and on top of that the transmission is a HUGE and $$$ ??? Besides that, if you want to make big power in a new GT500 it will still need its engine build anyways, so whats the point,? saying i own a shelby.. lmao.. I wanna go fast and a GT is perfect for that already.

    I'm letting the best in America build and tune this setup as I am ready to live with the results. I'm pretty positive and confident we are steering towards the right direction with this build. Yes, things could go wrong, and yes, I do know there are too many variables when it comes to building a boosted application even in this day and age but at the same time I'm making sure that we are doing everything we can in our power to minimize those risks by letting them build and tune this thing with the best parts and building the car like a whole unit as one thing leads to another as usual. No cutting corners or BS, taking chances to save 1-2K like boosting the car with OEM crank sprocket for example, or not upgrading valve springs, or I trying to do something I don't know or am not too sure how ( no poke to you or anyone) on something of this magnitude, blah blah blah. This thing will get the best of the best and again, I will live with the results whatever they are knowing we all tried out our very best.
     
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  2. 80FoxCoupe

    80FoxCoupe Well-Known Member

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    With that being said, that's why I've decided to simply run gen 2 restrictors/pump.
     
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  3. 80FoxCoupe

    80FoxCoupe Well-Known Member

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    @Tiago G. If you don't want to cut corners, don't forget to swap out intake and exhaust valves. Might as well go with Ferrea. Don't want to drop a valve in your fresh engine.
     
  4. bauern

    bauern Well-Known Member

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    The combination of increased stroke and rod length (Manley only shows stock length rod in the type mentioned) puts the piston pin higher in the bore at TDC so the ring package needs to be changed to accommodate the higher pin placement.
     
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  5. Rjames18

    Rjames18 Well-Known Member

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    You mentioned the boss crank earlier. There is no difference with the boss crank and GT crank. They only have different part numbers because they are balanced differently for the roadrunner motor.
    You have to rebalance a crank anyways when getting your motor build done
     
  6. OP
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    Tiago G.

    Tiago G. Well-Known Member

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    #36 Tiago G., Jan 30, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2020
    Valve springs will be replaced with titanium retainers but nobody said to replace the valves to me until now. I had that on the price quote so will talk to them to hear very carefully what they have to say.

    One of my friends runs a Gen 1 car at NMRA, ~1500 RWHP and single 88mm on stock heads with only good valve springs and retainers and never had a problem with them yet (knock on wood) but, I know exactly what you mean and am listening to everyone that wants to help and has good intentions. Money is just a number right? lol..

    There were other parts that I also had in mind to replace for this build but they told me they were not really necessary at the HP level I was looking for, basically, not to make my wallet that much lighter yet and wait for other important things that will come up during the build.

    Two examples below:

    1) MMR cam caps ( They never seen one broken yet, replace only bolts with ARP they told me) It would require machining of the cylinder heads $$$

    2) MMR billet main caps ( The OEM Iron ones are beasts that will hold 1500 to the wheel, again just replace the bolts with ARPs) It would require machining of the block $$$

    So, only if you go +1500 RWHP build they say yes, replace them. The +1500 build is another monster at another level and way more parts have to be replaced. Those are only 2 that I can record now but in other words, a guy that's shooting above that power level with his engine might as well reach 1750 - 2K Hp in the process in other words, he should just go ahead and buy the entire MMR catalog and other "crazy" things from other reputable brands to beef his/her engine up to the extreme.
     
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  7. 80FoxCoupe

    80FoxCoupe Well-Known Member

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    Valves are a must.
     
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  8. Rjames18

    Rjames18 Well-Known Member

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    Still on stock valves here!
     
  9. Slow306stang

    Slow306stang Active Member

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    I agree on replacing the valves on a high end build. Why risk a low dollar part (in the grand scheme of things) potentially killing a $25,000 engine?

    I run Ferrea valves on my 1300whp Procharged Coyote
     
  10. olaosunt

    olaosunt Well-Known Member

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    Darn man .... more parts to buy then !
     
  11. 80FoxCoupe

    80FoxCoupe Well-Known Member

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    For now!
     
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  12. Vegas5OH

    Vegas5OH Well-Known Member

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    I just bought a gen3 5.2 block to build, Im debating using the H tuff rods and extreme duty pistons or doing molnar powr adder rods with diamond 2k pistons. I dont know what to order, I want to live at 1k wheel with my Gen3r.
     
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  13. Strokerswild

    Strokerswild Shallow and Pedantic

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    Leave nothing to chance.....
     
  14. olaosunt

    olaosunt Well-Known Member

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    These are 5.85 length
    https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...eam-connecting-rods.html?ref=category:1271340

    @Tiago G.
    Is that what you got .
    There is also this which is $$$
    https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...eam-connecting-rods.html?ref=category:1271340
     
  15. olaosunt

    olaosunt Well-Known Member

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