Best Audio Upgrade on a Budget for Base Model?

[Superspirit]

OK I had also changed 727-01-01, from info found elsewhere online. Changed that back to the original values and now the radio is much better.

Also the B9 mentioned in my earlier post turned out to be the checksum automatically calculated by Forscan.

Finally, found a program online called “AsBuiltExplorer” and was able to use it to view my factory as-built (.ab) file downloaded from Ford.

You figured it out before I could help, awesome. 727-01-01 does not get changed unless you're installing an amp and want pre out signals. 727-01-02 fixes the eq curve.

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[Superspirit]

OK I had also changed 727-01-01, from info found elsewhere online. Changed that back to the original values and now the radio is much better.

Also the B9 mentioned in my earlier post turned out to be the checksum automatically calculated by Forscan.

Finally, found a program online called “AsBuiltExplorer” and was able to use it to view my factory as-built (.ab) file downloaded from Ford.

So does it sound completely different from the original configuration? I'm hoping this got you what I've been super happy with.

 

[Dave2013M3]

The first step would be to acquire forscan and reprogram the acm to eliminate the factory eq that's built into the programming. Then replace the speakers with some higher quality units. The improvement these 2 steps make is really unbelievable. The factory has so much bass rolloff to protect their cheap Speakers that you just won't believe it's the same system.

Agreed, just Forscan disabling of EQ helped tremendously.

 

[Matti777]

... Also, I probably would just replace the door speakers and leave the factory rear deck speakers alone.

I've been doing a lot of research as I plan my upgrade (the DIYmobileaudio site is great). I think many would agree that rear fill does not add to the equation therefore I am not planning on keeping rear speakers let alone upgrading them.

 

[Dave2013M3]

Today I installed a set of four Kicker 43DSC6704 speakers from Crutchfield. Was looking for more volume and bass from the factory 6-speaker system so I chose these speakers based on the sensitivity (90 dB) and frequency range (40-20,000 Hz) for the price ($148.30 delivered, including Metra mounting brackets and wiring harness adapters). I had previously gone into Forscan and disabled the equalizer cutoff.

First, for anyone using these Metra mounting brackets, let me save you a half hour of figuring things out and possibly the purchase of a Dremel: Nowhere in the Metra or Crutchfield instructions does it tell you that you can simply snap off the tabs on the inside diameter of the brackets with your fingers if you are using 6-3/4" speakers. I Dremeled and filed the tabs on the first one before doing a lot of Google searching and finally found a video showing that they just snap right off.

First I measured the output of the stock speakers at volume 10 for the first 30 seconds of a song on a CD and got an average of 49 dB and a peak of 57 dB. Then installed the rear deck speakers. The 7mm screw at the back is a nightmare, I could NOT get my hands back there. (Then a friggin hornet flew into the car since I had the doors open and got itself stuck right at the back window where I was working rrrgh!) I ran the speaker wires up through a square cutout in the sheet metal. Once installed I repeated the volume test and it actually got QUIETER at 48 dB average / 56 peak. Disappointing - everything I read said a speaker sensitivity of 90 or better was really good for stock head units and was hoping for more volume.

Moved on to the front speakers and for these had to drill a 1/2" hole in the side of the bracket to pass the wires through. Again, Crutchfield really should include that in the instructions. Repeated the volume test and no change, 48 avg / 56 peak.

Now subjectively, I do think the bass and the overall sound quality is better with these speakers. There was actually a little thumping playing them at 25 volume. Also, I'm not an audiophile but it seems like they are louder than the stock speakers at higher volumes, if that makes sense? Not sure I could have turned them up past 25 without it being uncomfortably loud, but I've had the stock speakers at max 30.

So if I had to do it over, I'd look for speakers with at least 92 dB sensitivity to pair with the stock head unit. The 40 Hz low frequency range seems to be good for improved bass. Also, I probably would just replace the door speakers and leave the factory rear deck speakers alone.

Hey Mike, don't get to hung up on the 1db loss of sound volume. First off it takes 3db of difference for the human ear to really notice a difference. It takes double the amplifier power to gain 3db of volume and vice versa. More importantly if the system sounds better than will be the main issue. I wouldn't be surprised if the OEM Ford units are very efficient, as the OEM amplifier from at least my understanding is less than 20wpc. I think the issue would be if you got a less efficient speaker you would be even having less volume. Also speakers break in, I would retest these in a couple of months of break in.

Dave

 

[Cathul]

In addition the base system starts to clip at around 20 on the volume level. If you want louder you need an external amp. Higher sensitivity speakers tend to have less bass, too.

 

[Dave2013M3]

In addition the base system starts to clip at around 20 on the volume level. If you want louder you need an external amp. Higher sensitivity speakers tend to have less bass, too.

A lot of that is dependent on source material.

 

[Cathul]

Sure, but you can use this as a general guideline.

 

[Superspirit]

In addition the base system starts to clip at around 20 on the volume level. If you want louder you need an external amp. Higher sensitivity speakers tend to have less bass, too.

I have read several places and i know my personal experience once the eq curve from Ford is removed it no longer clips. I don't have the link but there is a post where it was tested and verified with a meter.

 

[Cathul]

I have read several places and i know my personal experience once the eq curve from Ford is removed it no longer clips. I don't have the link but there is a post where it was tested and verified with a meter.

If you also reprogram the ACM to variable line output instead of speaker output, then yes. Absolute no clipping. But the integrated amp in the ACM does clip.
And with the availability of T-harnesses (Metra, idatalink, CARAV 12-240) there is no need to use speaker output if you can use variable line output instead, especially if you connect to the ACM with ForScan to remove the EQ. Just takes a minute more to have that perfect signal. And knowing this i still don't get it why people insist on using line output converters, high-level inputs and stuff like that. It just makes no sense what so ever...

 

[Superspirit]

Well I saw the results with the meter, so you'll have to list results with a meter to convince me. I sure wish I'd bookmarked that.

 

[Cathul]

Still... if you are already using ForScan you can reprogram to variable line level output and remove equalization in one step. No need to let the ACM put out speaker power instead of variable line output if you want to use an aftermarket amp and/or DSP.

From ForScan forum: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7910

However, if you want to STOP bass clipping at high volume, you must enable the "flat line out" by making the changes in 727-01-01.

 

[Superspirit]

Several people are under that misconception. When you remove the eq curve you remove the bass clipping, it's been tested and proven. I have personally done it on all 3 new doors we purchased this year. And they all go to 30 with no clipping. Don't believe it if you don't want, I've seen the graphs and hard the difference. And yes I have done both miss on different cars. Pre out is not needed to remove clipping.

 

[Superspirit]

For some reason I’m really struggling to find consistent answers to what ACM Forscan changes are needed for my 2018 GT with the factory 6 speaker system when you just change the door and rear speakers. I’ve looked at a bunch of websites and the 727-01-01 and -02 values seem to have a lot of variation. If anyone has suggestions I’d love to hear them. I changed 727-01-02 to 00xx before installing the new speakers but don’t really feel like its noticably better. Did not change 727-01-01.

Of you don't notice a change then there is something wrong. Flash it back to factory and you will find that at volume 16 the bass starts dropping out. The higher you go with the volume the more bass is removed. Then flash it back to remove the eq and retest. You will find of you flashed it correctly there is a huge difference above volume level 16. The pre out change only changes output voltage for an amp. Without an amp that change removes all headunit amplification. The best info I've found is here. https://www.mustangecoboost.net/threads/how-to-fix-factory-audio.14905/
Read it to the end and you'll gain a lot of knowledge!

 

[Dave2013M3]

Mike use a music source that has a lot of bass, you will notice it. I actually can get the doors to shake now with the stock speakers and the bass is at +2

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