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thebaldlatino5.0

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Thoughts on this? My alignment is in spec but the top strut bolts are so uneven. Curious on if anyone has a fix for this or thoughts on it.
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Norm Peterson

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What I'm seeing is that you can either get the SAI's to match or (roughly) get the cambers to match. But not both at the same time.

For the 'Before' measurements, were the strut adjustment knobs fairly close to being centered in the big holes? If so, that would tend to eliminate K-member shifting as a cause because the SAIs were the same. If there was some adjustment knob location difference, then that could indicate that the K-member wasn't perfectly centered with respect to the two strut tower tops. Or that something is bent.

Has this car had Ford's camber adjustment procedure done (where one of the strut to knuckle bolt holes is slotted) or have aftermarket "camber bolts" been installed?

Significant differences in strut orientation relative to the knuckle, driver side vs passenger side, can occur with either of the above procedures. I suppose it would also be possible if at least one bolt hole in the lower tabs on at least one of your struts was mislocated or drilled oversize, if there's a lot of bolt to hole clearance in the knuckles themselves, or if smaller-diameter bolts were used for any reason.


Norm
 
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thebaldlatino5.0

thebaldlatino5.0

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What I'm seeing is that you can either get the SAI's to match or (roughly) get the cambers to match. But not both at the same time.

For the 'Before' measurements, were the strut adjustment knobs fairly close to being centered in the big holes? If so, that would tend to eliminate K-member shifting as a cause because the SAIs were the same. If there was some adjustment knob location difference, then that could indicate that the K-member wasn't perfectly centered with respect to the two strut tower tops. Or that something is bent.

Has this car had Ford's camber adjustment procedure done (where one of the strut to knuckle bolt holes is slotted) or have aftermarket "camber bolts" been installed?

Significant differences in strut orientation relative to the knuckle, driver side vs passenger side, can occur with either of the above procedures. I suppose it would also be possible if at least one bolt hole in the lower tabs on at least one of your struts was mislocated or drilled oversize, if there's a lot of bolt to hole clearance in the knuckles themselves, or if smaller-diameter bolts were used for any reason.


Norm
Has had no camber bolts except the stock strut to knuckle bolts. And the strut nuts were centered before the alignment was done.
 

Norm Peterson

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That narrows it down to hole size, hole location, or something (probably one of the knuckles) being bent.

How good was the alignment with the OE shocks & struts? Do you have a print-out of that?


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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FWIW, the passenger side adjustment knob would have to be about another 1/8" further inward for passenger side camber to match the driver side camber. I'm pretty sure that your lowermost picture is of the passenger side.


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thebaldlatino5.0

thebaldlatino5.0

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That narrows it down to hole size, hole location, or something (probably one of the knuckles) being bent.

How good was the alignment with the OE shocks & struts? Do you have a print-out of that?


Norm
I do not, and I don't think its a matter of things being bent. I know the opening at the top of the tower is an issue due to size.
 
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thebaldlatino5.0

thebaldlatino5.0

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FWIW, the passenger side adjustment knob would have to be about another 1/8" further inward for passenger side camber to match the driver side camber. I'm pretty sure that your lowermost picture is of the passenger side.


Norm
Correct, the passenger side one is the one that's all the way inward.
 

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I do not, and I don't think its a matter of things being bent. I know the opening at the top of the tower is an issue due to size.
The big opening in the strut tower top has nothing to do with the ability to bring both SAI and cambers into side-to-side agreement at the same time. That's the problem you need to get solved here. Initially, the SAI's were in good match and the cambers were terrible. After alignment, the cambers were OK-ish and the SAI's were way off from each other. Playing more games at the strut top if the big holes were bigger would let you help the cross camber some more while hurting the difference in SAI even more, or help the SAI difference and hurt the cross camber.


Norm
 
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thebaldlatino5.0

thebaldlatino5.0

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The big opening in the strut tower top has nothing to do with the ability to bring both SAI and cambers into side-to-side agreement at the same time. That's the problem you need to get solved here. Initially, the SAI's were in good match and the cambers were terrible. After alignment, the cambers were OK-ish and the SAI's were way off from each other. Playing more games at the strut top if the big holes were bigger would let you help the cross camber some more while hurting the difference in SAI even more, or help the SAI difference and hurt the cross camber.


Norm
Hmm, Guess i'm gonna keep messing around with everything. I've been under the car on both sides, nothing is bent or torn up. Just had a lower control arm loose for a little bit that I tightened up last week cause it caused a big rattle on the passenger side.
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