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Battery Management System Reset

Bit_the_Bullitt

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Very unlikely. The factory ones are grab with thumb and finger, twist and lift. You can bet they dropped/lost them after they were out.
You're probably right. Would have been nice to have clips that are easier to remove, but in all honesty I don't need to get at my battery as often anymore. Would've been nice when I needed to trickle charge it during quarantine, but been dailying for a while, so no point.
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HoosierDaddy

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You're probably right. Would have been nice to have clips that are easier to remove
When you see the factory retainers you'll see there couldn't be anything easier to remove. You just turn the fastener with your thumb and finger and it lifts right out.
 

Bit_the_Bullitt

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When you see the factory retainers you'll see there couldn't be anything easier to remove. You just turn the fastener with your thumb and finger and it lifts right out.
Begs a question the heck was a Ford tech doing when doing such a simple job? You must be right, lost it, not broken.
 

Rod27

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I thought I would take a picture for future reference if anyone was interested. Thanks go to those that pointed me in the right direction. These are the two sensors that thehunteroo was talking about. My system seems to be working fine and it has a new battery with a January 2019 date so hopefully I will not have any issues. But it is nice to know for future reference.

7EF47A02-D82A-46E1-ADAE-FDE9EC540960.jpeg
How do you take those clips apart?
 

Pucklord

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This post helped me big time with an issue I had for almost six months! since January I've replaced my battery three times! Yes three times. After reading this post, I went with disabling BMS and resting the battery. Now I'm happy to say that my battery works like a charm with a solid 14.6 V to 14.2 V.

fyi I did not unplug the sensor instead, I used forscan to disable BMS under "BdyCM module" on the search section I typed Battery then there were three option none, LIN and PWM. The stock value was PMW and I changed it to none. Then I went to the service procedures which has the wrench tool symbol and I did a battery monitoring system reset it made the car flashes all lights ... on and off by itself. Then to make sure I did the manual battery rest by flashing them high beams 5 times and then press on the breaks three times with the ignition on. It flashed the battery logo on the dash for about three times and it went away. Now as I said, battery is showing 14.6 V to 14.2 and for about a month now, I haven't seen it below 14.2.
I Became obsessed with checking how much voltage I have every time I go for a ride. Cause the last two batteries put me in a very awkward situations.
 

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MidnightStars

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I thought I would take a picture for future reference if anyone was interested. Thanks go to those that pointed me in the right direction. These are the two sensors that thehunteroo was talking about. My system seems to be working fine and it has a new battery with a January 2019 date so hopefully I will not have any issues. But it is nice to know for future reference.

7EF47A02-D82A-46E1-ADAE-FDE9EC540960.jpeg
This is going to sound very stupid, but uhh... how do you disconnect these clips? I saw the clip/lever you push down & pull, but not a single bit of give for mine. The taillights and the seats were the only things I've ever disconnected, but they gave away like butter.

Granted, it was ~20°F and I was hastedly trying to do this before driving out somewhere, so I didn't give myself enough time to keep trying.

Started having funky electrical problems lately, but had my battery load tested and it was 100% healthy & didn't need to be repleaced (thanks AdanceAuto!). So, I figured it would be this piece of junk system Ford implemented. This will be my eighth year of owning my car, and it's already on its third battery. This is the longest lasting battery as well, coming in at four years in June.
 

GT Pony

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This will be my eighth year of owning my car, and it's already on its third battery. This is the longest lasting battery as well, coming in at four years in June.
Lots of heat kills batteries faster, and I see you're in Texas where it gets pretty hot. Keeping the cover on the battery box helps keep the battery a lot cooler from engine bay heat BTW.
 

MidnightStars

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Lots of heat kills batteries faster, and I see you're in Texas where it gets pretty hot. Keeping the cover on the battery box helps keep the battery a lot cooler from engine bay heat BTW.
Yup, cover stays on, and I've removed the insulating foam attached to the underside of the hood as well. Always been garage kept until 2022. Still killed batteries like crazy. Meanwhile, my mom's RAV4 still has the original battery, working since 2012. Maybe even older, since I don't know the exact year model, but it's still the factory battery since we've purchased it--nothing has been done to it outside of oil changes.
 

GT Pony

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Yup, cover stays on, and I've removed the insulating foam attached to the underside of the hood as well. Always been garage kept until 2022. Still killed batteries like crazy. Meanwhile, my mom's RAV4 still has the original battery, working since 2012. Maybe even older, since I don't know the exact year model, but it's still the factory battery since we've purchased it--nothing has been done to it outside of oil changes.
I put an AC Delco "Professional Silver" 96RPS battery in my GT coming up on 6 years ago. It's still as strong as ever. Always keep it charged up over the winter time so it's never below 90% state of charge. You always been using the Motorcraft batteries?
 

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MidnightStars

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I put an AC Delco "Professional Silver" 96RPS battery in my GT coming up on 6 years ago. It's still as strong as ever. Always keep it charged up over the winter time so it's never below 90% state of charge. You always been using the Motorcraft batteries?
Yeah, that's right, I've used Motorcraft because they've all been replaced under a warranty, so I haven't yet bought myself one yet. I've been looking into the Odyssey brand since quite a few people on here swear by it.

I live in an apartment complex now, so I don't have access to any outlets to allow the use of a battery tender.
 

MidnightStars

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This is going to sound very stupid, but uhh... how do you disconnect these clips? I saw the clip/lever you push down & pull, but not a single bit of give for mine. The taillights and the seats were the only things I've ever disconnected, but they gave away like butter.

Granted, it was ~20°F and I was hastedly trying to do this before driving out somewhere, so I didn't give myself enough time to keep trying.

Started having funky electrical problems lately, but had my battery load tested and it was 100% healthy & didn't need to be repleaced (thanks AdanceAuto!). So, I figured it would be this piece of junk system Ford implemented. This will be my eighth year of owning my car, and it's already on its third battery. This is the longest lasting battery as well, coming in at four years in June.
I tried again and still can't get the bastards off. Thank goodness for FORScan I guess, but I love physical disconnects more. Disabled the BMS (changed from "PWM" to "None"), and now the battery is back to a healthy state. Holds 12.4-12.5 V and she stays on for ages.

Do you drive it frequently?
Every single day, 30+ miles a day. Hell, back when it was garage kept, it got even more miles--50+ miles a day easily, and that's when the two batteries I've had died back-to-back.
I put an AC Delco "Professional Silver" 96RPS battery in my GT coming up on 6 years ago. It's still as strong as ever. Always keep it charged up over the winter time so it's never below 90% state of charge. You always been using the Motorcraft batteries?
I'm chalking it up to the BMS, the Motorcraft battery's back to holding its nominal voltage with the BMS disabled. Made it through a few days of sub-freezing temperatures and it held just fine. Let's give it a few years & we'll see.
 

ice445

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This is going to sound very stupid, but uhh... how do you disconnect these clips? I saw the clip/lever you push down & pull, but not a single bit of give for mine. The taillights and the seats were the only things I've ever disconnected, but they gave away like butter.

Granted, it was ~20°F and I was hastedly trying to do this before driving out somewhere, so I didn't give myself enough time to keep trying.

Started having funky electrical problems lately, but had my battery load tested and it was 100% healthy & didn't need to be repleaced (thanks AdanceAuto!). So, I figured it would be this piece of junk system Ford implemented. This will be my eighth year of owning my car, and it's already on its third battery. This is the longest lasting battery as well, coming in at four years in June.
You don't, lol. The construction of the induction sensors is misleading, it looks like you can unclip it, but you can't. They actually get slid onto the wire from the terminal end (you unbolt the nut that connects the wire spade to the battery terminal for the battery side sensor). The service manual says to mark the location and orientation of the original sensor so you can index the new one before you tape it in place.

I don't really recommend disabling BMS, it's pretty much free alternator lifespan to not have it charging 100% all the time. If you need to charge your battery and are stuck in apartment living, just remove it from the vehicle and take it inside to charge. Just leave your hood laying down on the latch so that you don't have to unlock the car to put it back.
 

MidnightStars

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You don't, lol. The construction of the induction sensors is misleading, it looks like you can unclip it, but you can't. They actually get slid onto the wire from the terminal end (you unbolt the nut that connects the wire spade to the battery terminal for the battery side sensor). The service manual says to mark the location and orientation of the original sensor so you can index the new one before you tape it in place.

I don't really recommend disabling BMS, it's pretty much free alternator lifespan to not have it charging 100% all the time. If you need to charge your battery and are stuck in apartment living, just remove it from the vehicle and take it inside to charge. Just leave your hood laying down on the latch so that you don't have to unlock the car to put it back.
You sure? Look at page four. I have a 2015-2017 model as well, so it shouldn't be different.

But I think I'll live with it. Alternator's thankfully easy enough to change out, and I can swap in for a much stronger one after the OEM dies.
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